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tradpuppy
Jul 14, 2003, 12:23 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2002
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Yep, it was a bad idea to advertize Leida, just as I mentioned last year in the thread above. Of course, one wouldn't notice unless one has seen this same thing happen again and again. Bolts appearing on established trad lines, asinine routes bolted with hardware store eye bolts, no stronger that a cold shut. The route at the top of the entrance trail w/ the 2 pockets in the low angle slab is an established 5.7 trad route. There is a bolt right next to a gear placement. never mind they bolted the arete 2 feet left of the original route, the bolt next to the crack is on the trad route.
We can look forward to more of this crap soon, I'm sure.
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ridgerunner
Jul 14, 2003, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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Let SR in AL be a lesson. Go ahead and chop the trash now before stuff gets out of hand.
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tenn_dawg
Jul 14, 2003, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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The next time I'm down that way, I'm going to stop in at Leida and check it out. I would be tempted to chop a climb with fixed cold shuts for pro for a couple of reasons.
First, the saftey factor. We all know that cold shuts are not as strong as a good bolt, and hanger.
Second, bolting a line, wether new or not, with cold shuts, chain links, or any other crap, is contrary to a president that has been set in the Southeast. I feel that if we allow substandard bolts to be placed without giving it a second glance, we are letting the quality of our climbing crags and routes to go to hell.
Third.... Well, the bolting of established trad lines is another subject entirely. Lets just hope I don't come walking up while someone is doing it.
The best solution would be to find the person responsible and let them know that this is unacceptable. The problem is, however, that there will always be another new climber with a drill, and a head full of ignorance.
But, as for the problem at hand.... Where did I put my tuning fork, and crowbar?
Travis
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tradpuppy
Jul 14, 2003, 4:03 PM
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I've gotten some pm's this morning telling me everything from how pissed people are they can't do the routes w/o bolts to being asked if I go around being pissed about Foster's and the Obed. What baloney, and god it's always the same lame argument, the one ridgerunner and I have heard over and over for years. There is easy top access to many of the routes there, especially the two in question, so all the pissed off people can just drag their butts to the top and set an anchor. I have been accused of being a hipocryte, too, because I started this thread and made the above statement in the first post about it being a bad idea to advertise leda. Um, I think the routes database has done just a fine job of that. I have even suggested in the past this should/be removed, to no avail.
OK, this is rumor control, here are the facts. At the top of the entry trail (the newer one, for those of you who haven't been in years), there is a low angle slab w/ 2 nice pockets for gear. Then the route moves left into a crack (location of the offending metallic object). The route then continues up through horizontals and ledges, veering right to a nice topout. The bolted thing starts about 3 ft. left on a short arete, and then joins the crack. So it's a partial retrobolt.
The second "route"...well, you just have to see this for yourself! You can't miss it. Hardware store eyebolts, why, I wouldn't let me wee lil' sport climbing granny take a hard fall on those! I was also told this morning that I should go replace the anchors myself "it's that simple", said he/she/it. I told this person the ones putting up the routes should be the ones doing it right the first time. Gawd.
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ridgerunner
Jul 14, 2003, 5:36 PM
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In reply to: There is easy top access to many of the routes there, especially the two in question, so all the pissed off people can just drag their butts to the top and set an anchor.
That, in all likelyhood is the reason the bolts got placed. You don't see the regular Sandrock crowd placing bolts on the Pinnacle, do you? In all likelihood it's someone trying to earn browny points with the 6 month flash crowd.
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