|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 14, 2003, 5:00 PM
Post #1 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Just got back from my trip to Needles, and it was an experience, to say the least...
Had the guidebook for years, salivating over it, but never could get up there. Currently working a job in South Carolina, and my company pays for airfare home to California once a month, with a couple paid days off to boot... So after a post in the WC Partners Forum, Mike (mreardon), Matt (pranaguy), Tim (tim), and Art (artm), along with a few others made plans to make a trip to Needles.
Tim flew out from DC, and I flew out from SC. Matt came to my house in Long Beach, and we left Thursday morning.
Mike alread had two sites, so we ofloaded some stuff, then hiked in our gear, and got in a climb... All who know me know how much I hate hiking, and the trek out to the rock is not easy. Over an hour for me, even though I got Matt top carry my pack/rack for me. Thanx Matt !!! The rock is impossible to describe, other than the word awsome, as I was awestruck just looking at it.
Mike led the first pitch of Thin Ice 5.10b, and I seconded with Matt coming up last. We then set up a TR for the first pitch of Atlantis 5.10c which was fun. Left our racks at the "notch", and hiked out as the sun set. Tim showed up at camp about an hour later.
Next day, Friday, we hiked in around 8AM, and I quickly racked up expecting to "Warm up" on Igor Unchained 5.9, and was handed my ass in return... Seems I am pretty weak in the endurance department due to not climbing regularly the last couple months. After climbing about 100' of the first pitch, I was pumped, and my pro was on the right side and I was only secure with the right hand. Needless to say, I knew I was coming off, so I pushed away from the rock, and fell about 15', but since Mike weighs as much as a pinata, that increased the distance fell to around 20'-25'. No biggy, I have fallen before. Shook it out, got back on, only to hang on the next 3 pieces. Not wanting to insult the climb anymore, I built a belay anchor, and had Mike clean my stuff, then finish Igor. Shut down by a .9 :( .
Mike then led Airy Interlude 5.10a, in one long 220' foot pitch. Note... That said 220', which means that we simul-climbed 20' of it. Got that clean, redemtion for Igor, sorta. :roll:
Lunch at the "notch" followed by me getting the lazies, due to the heat and the realization that I was WEAK. Nonetheless I belayed Tim while he climbed "some of" Thin Ice. I'll let him fill in the details.
More to come... Gotta go to a meeting here at work.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Jul 14, 2003, 5:03 PM
Post #2 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
Well, I've been putting that sucker off for a while now, Adam, but now I see that when I get back to SLO this fall, Needles is on my ticklist. Thanks a lot.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 14, 2003, 6:08 PM
Post #3 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
OK... Back from bad meeting. My job scope just got bigger. :(
Back to the TR...
Friday we hiked out expecting to find Art, as he was coming out Friday night. No Art... I'll let him explain... It sucks, and he was missed by all. Oh yea... Tim carried my rack out, Thanx Tim !!!
Saturday morning Mat and I packed our stuff into the car, as we planned on leaving late afternoon, so I could prepare for my flight back Sunday.
I got a late start, and planned on just cleaning, but ended up with 4 cameras and one video camera taking pictures and video for Mike to possibly use in one of his Climb On! series of vids.
Got great pics of Matt onsighting Igor, the one that I, the weakling fell on. Tim leading part of Airy, I'll let him provode the details of that one also. Mike and his friend Mark on Airy, and another multi-pitch (video). Also got about 100 pics of Tim's friends on Thin Ice.
Mat and I started to hike out at around 3PM, but we, rather "I", seemed to have missed the trail up to the Needles Overlook Ranger Station, and we ended up hiking well out of our way, and over another dome. Major bushwacking, well, just going through scrub with shorts on, and getting some sun.
That's it. All in all, I'd do it again. Beautiful place, great climbing, major exposure, beautiful unique[bb] rock, great friends, makes for a good trip.
Lots of pics to follow. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
artm
Jul 14, 2003, 7:07 PM
Post #4 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
|
short and sweet.
I left LA in a pissed off mood....due to a phone conversation with a woman. I packed in a pissed off mood and forgot my guidebook and the directions Tim sent me. Tried to wing it and got lost. Slept by the side of the road for a couple hours and then drove home.
To sum it all up.
No climbing.
No sleep.
No seeing my buddies.
No cuddle bunny.
No fun.
what a great weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 14, 2003, 7:16 PM
Post #5 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Art... You were missed my brutha, by all. :(
Nice change to the title BTW. :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 14, 2003, 7:16 PM
Post #6 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: short and sweet. I left LA in a pissed off mood....due to a phone conversation with a woman.
Why be so Enigmatic about her identity?
Looked for you at Wmson. Zac said you might be out there re-working Shroomin'. I suggested he encourage you to get on Kill the Spore. You need to dial in that dyno.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
tripperjm
Jul 14, 2003, 7:28 PM
Post #7 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
|
In reply to: In reply to: short and sweet. I left LA in a pissed off mood....due to a phone conversation with a woman. Why be so Enigmatic about her identity? -Jay |
|
|
|
|
artm
Jul 14, 2003, 7:34 PM
Post #8 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
|
You guys suck.
She is not a climber, in fact a few weeks ago she told me to "fugg off I don't want to see you" and then Friday nite calls me up. Wanted me to blow off the Needles/climbing and see her.
I made my choice.
Jay(you damn sport climber), I'll redpoint "Killing the Spore" after you redpoint "Popes Crack".
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jul 14, 2003, 7:34 PM
Post #9 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*Tim flew out from DC, and I flew out from SC.*
* I got Matt to carry my pack/rack for me.*
*After climbing about 100' of the first pitch, I was pumped, and my pro was on the right side and I was only secure with the right hand. Needless to say, I knew I was coming off, so I pushed away from the rock, and fell about 15', but since Mike weighs as much as a pinata, that increased the distance fell to around 20'-25'*
*Mat and I started to hike out at around 3PM, but we, rather "I", seemed to have missed the trail up to the Needles Overlook Ranger Station, and we ended up hiking well out of our way, and over another dome.*
*I packed in a pissed off mood and forgot my guidebook and the directions Tim sent me. Tried to wing it and got lost. Slept by the side of the road for a couple hours and then drove home.*
Man, you guys sound like a bulletproof crew...will all this stuff be in the vid?
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jul 15, 2003, 7:11 AM
Post #11 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: short and sweet. I left LA in a pissed off mood....due to a phone conversation with a woman. Why be so Enigmatic about her identity? -Jay Enigmatic!!!1 HAHAHAHA!!!1
:shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I was in Tuolumne, with a my new heart-throb, :P
Can't wait to see the photos of the Needles though. :!:
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Jul 15, 2003, 7:21 AM
Post #12 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
In reply to: She is not a climber, in fact a few weeks ago she told me to "fugg off I don't want to see you" and then Friday nite calls me up. Wanted me to blow off the Needles/climbing and see her. I made my choice.
In reply to: Jay(you damn sport climber), I'll redpoint "Killing the Spore" after you redpoint "Popes Crack". |
|
|
|
|
jliebgott
Jul 15, 2003, 8:12 AM
Post #13 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 59
|
Nice meeting you guys. Can't wait to see some of the pix you got of us on Thin Ice. The second pitch was much harder than the first for me. You might have noticed me climbing up, placing two pieces then sliding back down to the belay. In any event, facing away from the rock makes a world of difference in that flaring chimney.
On Sunday we knocked out Igor and then the last two pitches of Airy. Absolutely stellar climbs.
Can't wait to go back.... does that hike ever get easier??
jason liebgott
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 15, 2003, 12:17 PM
Post #14 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
I took all the pics with your bro's camera, so he has them. I took about 100 with his digital.
You should have him email them to you, and post them in the Gallery brutha.
In reply to: ...bulletproof crew...
The best part is we continually slander eachother, in a friendly way, so it is always fun.
The vid part is in regards to Mike (mreardon) makes the Climb On! series of climbing videos. (i.e.: I. Joshua Tree, II. Bishop, III, Red Rocks, IV. Los Angeles [coming]) He may use it for another series.
|
|
|
|
|
pranaguy
Jul 15, 2003, 11:03 PM
Post #15 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2002
Posts: 61
|
I have to say the Needles has got to be the most gorgeous rock I have ever climbed on so far. It is hard to describe what it's like seeing them for the first time after the hike in. Breathtaking doesn't cover it. So anyway, I had an awesome time, great climbing, cool people to hang out with. Enjoyed roping up with Tim and Mike, both great people and solid climbers. Definitely going back.
-Matt
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Jul 20, 2003, 1:29 AM
Post #16 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
In reply to: Man, you guys sound like a bulletproof crew...will all this stuff be in the vid?
Not much of this will make the vids Joe, but at least a couple of us made it up "Atlantis" without any falls or backing off and in the rain no less, unlike the time when I had the pleasure of watching you work your way up it... :lol:
Okay, rather than slander Joe (who is one helluva great climber and can run circles around me in the sport arena), I'll make this short with a longer spray-a-thon coming Monday:
Just got back after 10 days in the Needles whereby I got my ass-kicked regularly by the ratings, but got a couple classics that I've wanted to do, dragged Matt up some 11 grunge-fest that rarely gets done, had Adam so tired he couldn't speak, had the pleasure of meeting the coolest grey-beard around (Herb Leager - the man who FA'd "Spook Book"), watched two of the coolest onsights ever (high-wind send of "Scirroco" and off-width grudge-match of "Gorilla Warfare"), spent family night in deliverance country with Ned Beatty, puked my guts out over Ponderosa Pasta, almost got bit by four rattlesnakes, and had the pleasure of chasing a 9-foot tall bear away from camp wearing nothing but ugg boots. Oh yeah, and in the middle of all this, hiked somewhere around 60 miles, and climbed about 50 pitches worth of the best granite around. But more on this later. Now it's time to eat, sleep, cuddle with the wife, and figure out how to work the remote control....
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jul 20, 2003, 1:52 AM
Post #17 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
In reply to: had the pleasure of meeting the coolest grey-beard around (Herb Leager - the man who FA'd "Spook Book")
Meeting Herb was very cool. Saved an otherwise mediocre day for me...
In reply to: watched two of the coolest onsights ever (high-wind send of "Scirroco" and off-width grudge-match of "Gorilla Warfare")
Rio again?
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 20, 2003, 3:30 PM
Post #18 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Rio was an inspiration to watch climb.
Mike... Where's my slackline ??? Please tell me you got my message on your cell I left when I was at LAX, and have it in your posession.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jul 20, 2003, 3:43 PM
Post #19 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*Not much of this will make the vids Joe, but at least a couple of us made it up "Atlantis" without any falls or backing off and in the rain no less, unlike the time when I had the pleasure of watching you work your way up it...*
Ok I basically toproped Atlantis, still did it no falls, but I had'nt crack climbed in like 15 years...did you do the Don Juan Mike?
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jul 20, 2003, 7:56 PM
Post #20 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
In reply to: Rio was an inspiration to watch climb.
That dude was hard. And didn't spray -- at all. He and Herb both.
In reply to: Mike... Where's my slackline ??? Please tell me you got my message on your cell I left when I was at LAX, and have it in your posession.
You should really write your name on it somewhere. That would alleviate a lot of confusion as to who owns things like that. I'd have packed it up and brought it with me if I'd had any solid indication of who owned it!
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Jul 21, 2003, 4:21 AM
Post #21 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
In reply to: Ok I basically toproped Atlantis, still did it no falls, but I had'nt crack climbed in like 15 years...did you do the Don Juan Mike?
I know Joe, just had to joust a bit back at ya' :wink:
I've done the Don before from top to bottom (no falls, but scared witless when I went right at the top instead of the off-width!). Tried twice to get on it this trip but had rope issues both times and let superstition drive the logic. Have to wait until next time (two weeks?). Weather also kept me from Davy Jones, Pyromania, and Pegleg, but next trip I'm on it. Definitely did not take enough falls to begin any projects.
Adam, as I said, it may still be up there, I'll check when I go back in a couple.
Rio was definitely an artist on the rock. He and I are going to hook up later this summer (Romantic Warrior?) and John will be staying there all summer so who knows what we'll get on as well. Of course Vermont wants to get on some peaks at Tuolomne with me, and that blonde barbie smile is tough to resist so who knows? :lol:
I sprayed the entire week's worth of sends and stupidity for those interested in another post called "10 days in the Needles" if anyone is interested. Of course if you read it, you're only proving that you have way too much time on your hands and should get back out on the rock! :D
It was a great trip and I look forward to seeing others out there as well!
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 21, 2003, 12:17 PM
Post #22 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Mike's TR has got to be the best I have ever seen:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35796
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Jul 21, 2003, 12:39 PM
Post #23 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Couple of pics...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=15824
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=15825
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
Jul 23, 2003, 4:21 AM
Post #24 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
Well awesome job guys. It is good to hear that everyone is still climbing hard (Adam) and that no one is taking a break and getting weak (Adam). I know that someday I will be able to do those amazing things like you guys (getting lost - Adam) and will have my memories of hard onsights (5.9 is hard Adam, don't get discouraged) to guide me through the tough times.
Tough times like flailing on something that anklet-wearing Addiroids was able to onsight. Both (3) pitches.
Just playing. You know I have to give you crap, buddy!! You are still a hardman in my book!!! I will be there in about 3 weeks. Thin Ice is on the list. Even if it isn't 5.9 :)
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jul 23, 2003, 4:29 AM
Post #25 of 29
(6810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Thin Ice has one hard move. The rest isn't so bad. The hard move is in the finger crack area on the first pitch. The squeeze / flare thing is no big deal.
Spook Book on the other hand...
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
