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joemor
Jan 21, 2002, 5:25 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2001
Posts: 609
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any one had gear of any sort fail, i knew someone who snapped a lucky krab where it atached to the bolt after a short fall.
any one else got any horror stories????
any brands to avoid???
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addiroids
Jan 22, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 1046
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Gear doesn't fail, only will power does. And NO, I haven't had any gear fail (besides aid pieces popping) on me despite about $200 retail being bootied pieces.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
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madscientist
Jan 22, 2002, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2002
Posts: 159
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I have two stories.
Number 1:
A friend of mine fell, and a carabiner that was connected to his gear hit the rock hard and broke. He had no reason to believe that the carabiner was any weaker than any other.
Number 2:
The gear did not really fail, but it had potential. I was replacing an old star drive bolt. To do this, I had to remove the bolt first. I had my trusty crowbar, but did not need it for one bolt. I just pulled it out by hand. After that experience, I never trust bolts with stars on the head. The bolt was placed in limestone. I have replaced other star-drive bolts that I could pull almost all the way out by hand, but had to work to get the last bit out.
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wigglestick
Jan 23, 2002, 7:44 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
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Didn't happen to me but a Friend of mine had a Metolius #00 TCU fail after a 20 footer. The lobes deformed and sheared through the cam stops.
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jsm280
Jan 23, 2002, 8:13 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2001
Posts: 77
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bad placement which could lead to gear failure??? YES....
Have yet to see gear fail, I have seen user error and some gear on other peoples rack which I would never use.
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brinton
Jan 31, 2002, 7:19 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2001
Posts: 14
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I saw a dude who let his friend lead up a pitch, and asked what to do with the rest of the rack. By the time he said this he dropped his friends rack 100 feet to the ground. Pretty stupid heh. The friend on the bottom was pretty pissed.
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eshi-1
Deleted
Feb 1, 2002, 9:56 PM
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Well, I had the pleasure to see few carabiners break under big loads. A rope break down for not being strong enough to tow a bus (YES!!! that's what they used it for). And few more stories.
It all comes down to one thing :
IMPROPER USE OF GEAR!!!
Nothing else. If you use all your gear properly, there shouldn't really be any reason for failure.
Prefer being safe on being cheap!
if you dropped a binner from 20 ft on a rock, dump it and buy a new one. This just might save your a...
Good luck,
E
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jmlangford
Feb 1, 2002, 11:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2001
Posts: 1569
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I was watching a guy on a 5.9 crack climb called Nova Express near Donner Summit, I was taking pictures and such of him and his wife belaying. He didn't make it past the crux and she was lowering him down off of his last piece, a friend I think. Anyway, while she was lowering him the piece(shaft)broke and that dude ripped his next piece down and he decked from about 50-60ft. Landed right at his wifes feet. The good news is that he survived, barely. The next day I was in a climbing shop in North Lake Tahoe and I saw a recall notice for that style of friend. If you're interested, I'll scrounge up the pictures(before and after decking) and post them.
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