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vaness
Jan 21, 2002, 6:04 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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are you really not suposed to use an ATC to rap? cuz i was told that there only used for belaying but i have used them to rap before. so am i going to die or something is i use them for that?
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beta
Jan 21, 2002, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
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On single rope rappel, I find that I could use more friction than the ATC provides, other than that, I haven't had a problem. I use it as my primary belay device and it works great.
beta
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pirateclimber
Jan 21, 2002, 6:34 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2002
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This was excerpted from B.D.'s site:
"All the work we put into the ATC to make it the best belay device on the market transfers directly to its superiority as a rappel device."
Hope it helps!
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floof
Jan 21, 2002, 7:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2002
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I wrote to Black Diamond about a similar issue. A product designer replied (very well, I might add) that you can add friction to the rappel system by connecting the ATC to an extra biner.
I've rappelled using both sides of a 10.5mm rope through the ATC and I got enough friction. But this was at slow speeds but YMMV at higher speeds.
I'll experiment with the extra biner on the ground before I use it. And suggest the same for anyone else.
Be safe,
- John
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sonofspork
Jan 21, 2002, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2001
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I have been using the ATC for the past three years and it has always worked great on rappels. Yes they are made for belaying and rappeling.
-sONofSpORk
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artm
Jan 25, 2002, 8:59 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
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Trango makes a Tube belay device similair to the Black Diamond ATC called the 'Jaws'.
The Jaws has an additional v notch on one side that can add a whole lot of friction to either Belaying or Rappelling.
I've got both and personally prefer the ATC
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camhead
Jan 25, 2002, 9:36 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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hell yeah!
I've pretty much given up on my fig8 biner for canyoneering. I prefer the ATC, although on really big double rope raps they actually provide too much friction (I think).
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mikedano
Jan 25, 2002, 9:39 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
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I use my ATC for everything, and I love it. (I actually have the HB kind with the metal ring, but it's basically the same.) But I have seen that new Reverso thing, which supposedly works differently and/or better? Any words about that?
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rigel
Jan 29, 2002, 2:10 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2002
Posts: 81
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i've used a figure 8, an ATC, grigri, and the trango for rappel and belay and the trango works best. the metal has more surface area to dissipate heat. one day i tried them all and it was the coolest even on a fast descent.
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wigglestick
Jan 29, 2002, 2:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Mikedano - I use the reverso exclusively and I think it is the best belay/rappel device out there. As a rappel device it has less friction than an ATC, which is sometimes good but sometimes bad. But if you use fat ropes like I do it is a good thing. But I had to descend a 8mm line awhile back (with haul bag) and it was a scary ride. Glad I had gloves on.
But the ability to belay a second in auto-locking mode far outweighs these problems. In retrospec I should have used two locking biners to increase the radius the rope was going around.
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brinton
Jan 31, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2001
Posts: 14
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personally I don't car for the petzl reverso, I prefer the trango jaws. It has served well in disipating heat. The atc is great also but gets quite hot like you others already mentioned.
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eshi-1
Deleted
Feb 1, 2002, 10:07 PM
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Dear all,
With all do respect to patriotism :
Give this one up to the Europeans.
The best belay devices of that kind that really work great when it comes to the rappelling part of it are :
1. Wild country - VC (Variable Controler)
2. Petzl - Reverso.
Both are great for rappels and both offer two levels of friction.
GO RAP
E
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kahuna3602
Feb 2, 2002, 1:46 AM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2001
Posts: 318
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for a single rope I use a Stop. Works great for me. I feel the ATC for one rope doesn't provide enough friction. Seems to work fine for a double rope though.
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beyond_gravity
Feb 2, 2002, 1:46 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5076
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If you read that little pice of paper that comes with your ATC, you would know that it's perfectly fine for rapelling with. But please note: ATC should not be used as any form of trad protection.
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