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beanny


Jan 22, 2002, 6:44 AM
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bad footwork
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some one told me that I have bad footwork... how do i improve it?


woodse


Jan 22, 2002, 6:53 AM
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Practice!!!

Good foot work comes with lots of time on the rock. Watch good climbers carefully and see what they are doing and try to make similar movement but remember that because every climber is unique so is the footwork that suits them.

woodsE


spank_spank


Jan 22, 2002, 7:01 AM
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Do a 30 minute traverse workout, without stopping. Concentrate on your footwork. Try to be precise in foot placement and not to make noise with your feet.



daisuke


Jan 22, 2002, 8:50 AM
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do some free soloing on very easy rockfaces, 5.6 or 5.7, go up, traverse, everything, I did that the other day to improve my climbing a bit (took a short break from climbing) and immediately it improved my eye to foot coordination so that I was able to onsight a 5.9/10a


madscientist


Jan 22, 2002, 10:49 AM
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Repeat routes that you can do, and are not really hard for you. On those routes, try different foot placesments to see what feels best. This works well on boulder problems also. Remember, footwork is not always about how to get your weight on your feet, but how to get your body in the best position to do the climb.


rck_climber


Jan 22, 2002, 10:54 AM
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As I train *only* outdoors, my favorite way to train footwork is to get on a nice, featureless granite slab so that I have no choice but to use my feet. I find this "Sink or Swim" technique really forces me to concentrate on my foot placements first and worry about hands later. It also shows me just how far my shoes will go too.

Hope this helps.

Mick


vaness


Jan 22, 2002, 12:53 PM
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i do this sometimes...
get on a route you know you can do and use all the foot holds you dont use for that route. sometimes it works. or you could take away some of the foot holds on the route.
the ideas arent that great but they might help


ravens_wing_jim


Jan 22, 2002, 2:45 PM
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I just posted some tips on this very
subject yesterday in the ways to practice
technique thred in this forum..check it
out.
The biggest problem that new climbers have
is not trusting their feet.
So they lay flat against the rock and try
to strong arm their way up.
What you need to do is start placing your
weight over the balls of your feet, let
your legs do the work, they are by far
stronger than your arms(unless your a gorilla). Here's a good foot workout that
is sure to help: Set up an easy toprope
on a 5-6 or 5-7 route, now try to get to
the top using only your feet, no grabing
holds with your hands, only laying your
hands flat against the rock to balance yourself. This exercise will teach you to
keep your weight over the balls of your
feet, it will help you find your center
of balance, and it forces you to concentrate
on foot placement.
For more tips, go check out what I posted
in the other thred.
Hope this helps.

Jim


beanny


Jan 23, 2002, 12:43 AM
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hey, thanx people... is it of help to downclimb? since downclimbing would require 'using the feet first before the hands'?


Partner phylp


Jan 24, 2002, 5:24 PM
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I think one of the best ways to improve your footwork is to go buildering. Before their were gyms, if you couldn't get on real rock, this is what a lot of people used to train. In almost every town you can find buildings made from cut stone. Doing traverses where you stay on dead vertical for as long as you can is incredible both for your footwork and your finger/hand/forearm training. Where I live in CA, the Stanford University campus is renowned for the quality of its buildering problems. Bouldering areas in gyms are usually set up for power and overhanging training. But if you go the buildering route, please be careful about access issues. Be discreet and don't use chalk that will be seen.


jt512


Jan 24, 2002, 6:37 PM
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Beginners often unwittingly sabotage their efforts to learn good footwork by using comfy, beginners climbing shoes. See my comments at: www.tradgirl.com After clicking on the above link, scroll down to "From: Jay Tanzman."

-Jay (Tanzman)

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-01-24 18:42 ]


gonjozo


Jan 31, 2002, 5:02 PM
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boulder


suicidal_soldier


Feb 4, 2002, 7:52 AM
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hey beanny,
i would suggest u to go to a rock gym and 1st, hold on to 2 nice and "thank-God" handholds on the wall and next, practise ur foot-work by stepping on 2 footholds and keep switching ur left foot to the right footholds and right foot to the left footholds!
do it slow at the start and then slowly pick up speed and increase ur the no. of footholds as u go on!

this help to train ur precision of ur foot-work!

[ This Message was edited by: suicidal_soldier on 2002-02-04 07:56 ]

[ This Message was edited by: suicidal_soldier on 2002-02-04 07:57 ]


c-horse
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Feb 5, 2002, 12:04 AM
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Here's another good training tip for building your footwork repertoire.

1) pick a route (TR or bouldering problem) on a slab or vertical wall.
2) climb the whole route facing to the right (using the outside edge of your left foot and the inside edge of your right foot for ALL foot placements).
3) repeat the climb facing to the left
4)repeat the climb "toed in" to the wall, edging with your toes straight on to the wall.

hth
C


rippdclimber


Feb 5, 2002, 5:12 AM
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There are two things that I do for my foot work that have helped me out alot.

1. Down climb. I think that downclimbing is the best way to improve overall technique.

2. Tracking. Tracking is where you allow your feet to only use holds that your hands have used already. Therefor you are going to face alot fewer foot holds and be forced into some foot hand matches and other not easy positions.

Anything that you can do outside of the gym to increase ballance would also help you.

Josh


gekolimit


Feb 21, 2002, 12:28 AM
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 my opinuin...footwork is just a matter of trust. don't forget to leave some of your weight for your feet, don't try to hold yourself up to much. More weight on the feet, the better their friction with the wall.


pushfurther


Feb 21, 2002, 7:36 AM
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i agree with rippd on the hand/foot matches.

and whoever said the featureless slab, that worked for me too.

now i have to relearn my footwork. thanks to the good old tendonitis problems i took a few months off..


sheppe


Feb 21, 2002, 10:27 AM
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Watch (litterally, look down and have a look) where you place your feet, being careful not to do anything else until your foot is where you want it, exactly. I found that doing this helped me improve my eye-foot coordination, and as time went by I got better at finding the footholds and placing my foot exactly, on the first try. Oh, and trust your feet; put some weight on them.

-Sheppe


toshido


Mar 6, 2002, 12:58 AM
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  Taking a bi-weekly course in Intermediate techniques and here is one of the excercises that I was shown.

Climb a route that is well within your ability, BUT dont use any hand holds above your eye level.

I was too burnt out at the time to actually try it but that is definately something I will be trying next time I go climbing.


maddie


Mar 6, 2002, 11:18 PM
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 Someone once described rockclimbing as ballet on rock. Try silent climbing, it makes you pay more attention to your feet. other than that practice!


krustyklimber


Mar 7, 2002, 2:10 AM
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Stop climbing with that person!!

Jeff


metoliusmunchkin


Mar 8, 2002, 11:59 AM
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I all can really tell you here, is that you must constantly look down at your feet while climbing. This is what many newbies have trouble with, they do not really concentrate on what is below them (their feet, and all of their foot placements), yet rather what is above them.

Once you really have practiced this method of looking down and realizing your foot movements, all that really comes next is some more practice.

Practice, practice, practice!


crux_clipper


Mar 14, 2002, 4:12 AM
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A good trainer i found was to find a hollw wooden wall. The ntraverse, watch your feet, and try to climb 'silently' The hollow wall magnifies everysound, so rather then slapping your foot above a hold and hearing a loud thump, place it on the hold so no noise is made, and continue.


rock_chic


Mar 17, 2002, 4:05 AM
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I agree totally with all the advice given here-and I'll use some myself too!
When I just started climbing, some one told me to do this and it really helps,
As your climbing, you automatically look for hand holds and you usually use the grab-and-pull technique.
Try climbing a few routes and say mentally to yourself "hand,hand,foot,foot'
When you're saying "hand, hand" look for hand holds, then when your'e sayiong"foot,foot", look for footholds.

I found this really useful to start off and now I still use it sometimes when I'm up somewhere really high and scary and I'm shitting a brick,and I feel like I will never be able to move out of where I am!
I just go"hand, hand, foot, foot" ,you sound very strange but it forces you to concentrate on the climbing and not the scary situation your'e in!


bradhill


Mar 22, 2002, 2:21 PM
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Put on a 30 lb pack and winter gloves. Pick a really easy route in the gym and just keep going up and down it. Do 10-15 up or 5-8 up and down before you take a break. Keep it up. Your arms will quickly grow so tired and the gloves keep you from relying on hand strength enough that you can't help but use your feet to get up the wall. You may find that the second set of 10 is easier than the first because your technique and reliance on feet will have improved so much.

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