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help i think i caught weak!!!!!!!
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joemor


Jan 23, 2002, 7:06 PM
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help i think i caught weak!!!!!!!
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haha yes i know weakness cannot be caught but ive got it bad.

im climbing technical low angle climbs around aus 21/us 5.10d. but the minute i get on an over hanging wall/ roof, i immediately drop a few grades, i think my technique is ok i just need more strength..... appart from climbing how else can i improve my upper body strength...... fast...... all quick fixes welcome... again i laugh....

cheers
joe


beta


Jan 23, 2002, 7:33 PM
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I have trouble with overhanging sections and roofs. One thing I have noticed about people who don't, they seem to get their feet as close to the overhanging part as possible before trying to pull it.

I haven't had the opportunity to climb recently, but this is something that I have noticed and have not had an opportunity to try.

Other than that, pulling exercises, rows, upright rows, pull-ups etc.. surely wouldn't hurt.

Boy, I would lift weights if they weren't so heavy, and I'd run a mile if it weren't so far. (grin).......


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climbchick


Jan 23, 2002, 8:07 PM
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I despise anything overhanging and I also drop a few grades when I attempt it, but one trick I was shown is to thrust your hips into the rock as soon as possible and kinda arch your back -- it seems to transfer a lot of weight off your arms and on to your legs/feet. Helps me a bit, but I'm still pretty pathetic.


Partner pianomahnn


Jan 23, 2002, 8:22 PM
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Fast quick gains are no good for climbing. Grove into it. Just keep working those routes which spank you, and you'll get there.


paintinhaler


Jan 23, 2002, 9:19 PM
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Footwork is not upper body but it's key for overhanging climbs.


madscientist


Jan 23, 2002, 9:57 PM
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I climb overhanging rock better than slabs. One of the technique tricks is to face the hand you are holding on with. For example, if you are holding on with your right hand, turn your left shoulder into the rock so your chest is facing that hand. Also, many times on overhanging rock you don't keep both feet on the rock. Also climbing in a gym helps. Many times gym routes don't emphasize footwork, but rather back strength. Do labs on routes to improve your back muscles. Lifting weights will help, but you will not see improvement as quickly as climbing routes. If you have crags with consistantly overhanging routes nearby, that will help also. Outdoor routes just are not as consistant as gym routes most of the time.

[ This Message was edited by: madscientist on 2002-01-23 21:58 ]


fiend


Jan 23, 2002, 9:59 PM
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Dude, weak is going around.

I've been down with the weak for a while now and it's killing me.

I'm contemplating surgery for bionic implants, all the cool climbers are doing it.


wandt


Jan 23, 2002, 10:28 PM
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One arm dumbell rows. 4 sets of 6-8 reps. You should not be able to do more than eight reps. If you can, use a heavier weight. Get someone experienced to show you the proper technique. For the extra tweak, pause for a second at the top of your contraction. Though this won't do that much for your grip, it WILL give you plenty of pulling power. Lats pull-downs, wide-grip pull-ups, pull-ups on the finger board all help too, but I really like the dumbells.


joemor


Jan 23, 2002, 11:03 PM
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glad to hear weak is goin round a bit, i think im going to have to get me a finger board....... but keep the answers comming they all help.......

cheers
joe


kman


Jan 24, 2002, 12:12 AM
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I've been trying to work this damn over hanging section in the gym I go to for the past 3 weeks. Each time I get just a little bit further though. Man I cant wait untill the real rock dries out.


hyhuu


Jan 24, 2002, 11:30 AM
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Overhang climbing requires a diff set of techniques. This is where moves like, backstep flagging, dropknee, heelhook really help. Get someone to show them to you and start practicing. It might feel weird at first but you'll learn quickly. One thing about overhang is that it requires lots of body tension, which helps transfer weight and balance for affective footwork so crunch those ab. Good luck and climb on.


hendicrimpin


Jan 24, 2002, 12:27 PM
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i find its easiest to get your feet as high as possible (heel hooking.etc) this transfers you're center of mass to your hips - so that the only thing pulling you down is you mid-section and not your legs.
i don't know if this makes any sense, but it works for me.


spank_spank


Jan 24, 2002, 12:43 PM
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Ok all. I am a overhanging, pocket pulling stud!!

Some tips for training for overhangs:

Technique - this will save precious power.

Frenchies - will practice your lock off strength.

Campusing - will also practice you lock off strength and core power.

Core Power - Lots of crunches and train overhangs in the gym. When climbing overhangs, use only foot gibs, make a move and let your feet cut loose. Control your swing and repeat.

Finger Training - for very experience climbers. Train them fingers on an hangboard.

Also practice hanging off slopers. Slopers requires massive core strenght.

Good Luck


o0ocindyo0o


Jan 24, 2002, 12:53 PM
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I started out only toproping. One day I tried to boulder a 15 degree wall and was promptly deposited back onto the ground. After a couple weeks of bouldering I could climb the 60, now I'm working on roofs. The message? To get better at overhangs, boulder!

my 2 cents


ratstar


Jan 24, 2002, 3:44 PM
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Fiend you should get bionic implants I have them and love them I regularly climb 15s now.


joemor


Jan 26, 2002, 10:08 PM
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damn i knew there was no quick fix.... maby the bionic implants??????

whent back to the gym got a bit further...

gues all the help is paying off.... thanks

i still wish i hadnt caught weak in the first place.

joe


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