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Rope diameters?
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pwsk


Jan 24, 2002, 7:49 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
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Rope diameters?
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Personally I use a 11mm and a 10.5mm rope in a double rope system when I trad. My thinking is that due to the conditions we climb in-rough and sharp edged rock with a fair amount of vegetation in some places-the thicker ropes handle the cinditions a bit better. It makes for some extra weight, but by now I am used to it. What is your opinion on this? Is it true that thicker ropes put more force on protection than thinner ropes?


davyk46


Jan 24, 2002, 8:27 AM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2001
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My personal favorite is 10.5mm. It is small enough for easier carry and smoother belaying and when you use it to repel it is a little faster than the static rope. and it is less of a hassle than those big bulky 12mm ropes.


madscientist


Jan 24, 2002, 8:28 AM
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Personally, I use two 9.8's when I do easy trad climbs. They are lighter than the thicker cords for the approach, and if one gets cut the other is still good as a single rope. On rappel's, cords of different sizes don't always feed through the belay devices at the same rate, so it is possible to get a surprise at the bottom of the rappel when using two different diameter ropes.
The force that a rope puts on the gear is related to how much the rope stretches. You cannot say that thicker ropes always have a higher impact force, but in general they do. You can check the impact force in many catalogs. Most of the time you will see a large difference between an 11 and a 9.8, but if the gear is good it will not make a huge difference. Also, the lower the impact force, the more the rope stretches and the more likely you might hit that ledge beneath you.


darkside


Jan 24, 2002, 8:43 AM
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Single ropes generally have a higher impact force than doubles so in any given situation they put more of a load on an anchor in a fall than a double would. Also because of the smaller diameter, doubles produce less rope drag. Although inherently, a bigger diameter rope will be less susceptible to being severed, the fact that double ropes follow separate rope lines means that it is extremely unlikely both will be damaged in any one incident of rockfall etc. In short, the smaller diameter of doubles is why two are used while the better impact forces actually make them better than singles in a fall. There are other factors that come into play making doubles a more favourable choice in many situations. Note I don't say better as aech climb may have different factors influencing choice of rope system but IMHO doubles are more versatile/safer.
BTW: I would sugest you search the forums as the subject of double ropes has been covered multiple times and I can't be bothered to go into further depth here.


ratstar


Jan 24, 2002, 3:40 PM
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you guys use ropes on long routes? Man I didn't ever think of this. Man do I look stupid.


pwsk


Jan 25, 2002, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
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Thank you guys! Conserning my main question on rope diameters I've recieved plenty of useful info.
Rock on...


daggerx


Jan 26, 2002, 5:43 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2001
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I use 10.5 double dry for every thing.


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