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ryemill
Jul 28, 2003, 12:17 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2003
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hi i am new to climbing and will be climbing on real rock for the first time this weekend at rocktown with my wife. i was just wondering if anyboby knew where i could get some beta on the lost wall, or if anybody knows if there are any easy routes on this wall (5.6-5.8) and where they are. i just got a rope so i geuss i will be looking for mostly TR routes. another question i had is would it be wise to do any bouldering without a crashpad? are there any problems that are low enough not to need one? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks,ryan
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reno
Jul 28, 2003, 12:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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There is some beta on the lost wall here at RC.com.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=2359
For easy Top Rope routes, I'd recommend the following lines. All of these are on the first part of the wall. When you approach from the parking area and first get to the wall, look to the right. There is a chossy gulley that you can scramble up and gain a trail. Follow that trail along the top of the wall, and set your TR where you wish. Be forewarned: Some of the routes require a LONG anchor to set up a TR... I used two 50 foot sections of static line when I went there.
Steggo (5.6) First route on the wall... closest to the parking area.
Kids Korner (5.6) Left corner right beside Steggo.
Guzzler (5.8) Obvious crack in middle of face.
Maybe Not (5.8) Left corner with small roof. About 40 feet left of Guzzler.
Also, spend a buck or two and get Chris Watford's "Dixie Craggers Atlas."
Never went bouldering when I lived there, so can't offer any advice on that question.
Have fun.
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ryemill
Jul 29, 2003, 11:23 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2003
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thanks for the help, i meant to put (5.6 - 5.8) i dont know how the smiley got in there. i only have 50ft of webbing, so i hope i have enough. what will there be to anchor to? trees or what?
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montgomerywick
Jul 29, 2003, 11:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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www.seclimbers.org
info on lost wall
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reno
Jul 29, 2003, 12:30 PM
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Yeah, there will be trees to use for anchors along the first part of the wall (before the waterfall.) Beyond that, the trail is very faint (at least it WAS rather faint a few months ago when I was still in GA and climbing there,) and you'll spend more effort bushwhacking than it will be worth.
Stick to the first part of the wall... plenty of TR options there.
Make sure you stop by the ranger office, check for closures (certain times of the year for hunting, etc.) and remember to thank the staff for fighting for climber's rights. These guys have fought many a battle against other outdoors enthusiasts to maintain our access to the climbing.
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jen_c
Jul 29, 2003, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2002
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There aren't any closures at the moment. Hunting season won't start until Oct. Have fun at Rocktown & Lost Wall.
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tenn_dawg
Jul 29, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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Cough up the dough for a "Dixie Craggers Atlas". It will have all the info you want, and a lot that you don't.
Travis
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