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hammer_
Jul 7, 2003, 8:21 PM
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What do you think of people drytooling on sport routes (only tools, no crampons). I've seen some top notch published mixed climbers at popular crags around Canmore doing it lately.
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tenn_dawg
Jul 9, 2003, 12:23 PM
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I kind of wish they wouldn't. I have a feeling that if this gets popular the tools will have a good chance of breaking off small holds, or crumbling them. If they want to Dry Tool Obscure sport routes for training, fine, but I think ice tools would cause damage to any line they are on, and I would prefer they not put them on classic routes.
Travis
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bsperes
Jul 9, 2003, 2:08 PM
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same, tools have a good chance of blowing small stuff
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cass
Jul 9, 2003, 2:13 PM
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don't be such a tool
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overlord
Jul 29, 2003, 2:48 PM
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if i ever see one i will put hes crampons up hes a$$!!!!
why cat these morons just climb the rock how its supposed to be climbed and wait for the ice to form. or at least they can find an undeveloped crag with NO existing sport/trad routes. they have done the latter in SLO and everybody gets along just fine now. they stick to their crags and dond destroy ours.
and dont think that drytooling on established routes damages them. oh, no, it destroys them.
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jpb
Jul 29, 2003, 7:01 PM
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One of the few ethical point I believe :
No drytooling on sports route ......
Kick them out of the cliff !
All they have to do is add a few more bolts to their drytooling routes and do them in summer .
Come on ... tools damage holds ... you have to be blind not to realize it !
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vertical_reality
Jul 29, 2003, 7:39 PM
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In reply to: What do you think of people drytooling on sport routes (only tools, no crampons). I've seen some top notch published mixed climbers at popular crags around Canmore doing it lately.
If they were really top notch mixed climbers they'd know better.
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dsafanda
Jul 29, 2003, 8:07 PM
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From what I know of Canmore, there are more world class ice and mixed climbers that live there than world class sport climbers. That doesn't necessarily make it right but for better or worse they've made the area their playground. I think it comes down to a case of what's accepted according to local consensus. If mixed climbing is more important to the majority of climbers in Canmore than pure sport climbing, so be it. If there really was any local consensus that dry tooling was frowned upon I don't imagine you would see people doing it. Surely, the community of climbers there has decided that this is acceptable.
I'm not worried about seeing anyone drytooling in Yosemite or Joshua Tree any time soon. Perhaps I'd have a different opinion if I lived in Canmore and dealt with it more often.
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dead_milkman
Jul 29, 2003, 9:09 PM
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In reply to: What do you think of people drytooling on sport routes (only tools, no crampons). I've seen some top notch published mixed climbers at popular crags around Canmore doing it lately.
Which crags? Which routes? Perhaps this is a discussion that should be taken up at www.live-the-vision.com? We could always use another controversy, what with the Mt. Louis bolt flame war dying down and all...
DM
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stevematthys
Jul 31, 2003, 1:54 AM
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trad climbers dont like sport climbers who bolt cracks.
sport climbers dont like drytoolers who break their holds.
who do the drytoolers have to pick on?????
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pbjosh
Jul 31, 2003, 2:00 AM
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HEY STEVE WHAT'S THAT URL AGAIN? WE'RE ALL TARDS HERE AND CAN'T READ NORMAL SIZE TEXT?
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stevematthys
Jul 31, 2003, 2:01 AM
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nope, its shameless self promotion!!!!!!! :wink: :D
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dead_milkman
Aug 1, 2003, 7:14 PM
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Come on... name some names. Which crags and which routes (I don't give a sh1t who, just where)? I need to know if I should be upset over drytooling on actual sport routes, or whether you've seen people drytool mixed routes... Please ;)
Oh, by the way, sorry for not calling re. climbing this (last?) weekend... I'm actually at an Ulti tournament until Monday...
Cheers,
DM
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rockprodigy
Aug 5, 2003, 12:05 AM
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I was climbing at Grassi Lakes last Thursday and noticed scratch marks all over the place. I don't know if the routes were done as sport routes first or not, but I think that makes a big difference...just like if it were done as a trad route first. That being said, it wouldn't surprise me if people in Canmore have decided that mixed climbing takes precedence...but if it were my sport routes, I would be pissed!
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dead_milkman
Aug 5, 2003, 2:57 PM
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There are a number of mixed routes in Grassi that would, IMO, be unsuitable for sport climbs anyhow. These all are in the general area near the swamp buttress, where ice climbs typically form in the winter. Check the mixed guidebook for confirmation of route identitiy if you like...
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hammer_
Aug 5, 2003, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What do you think of people drytooling on sport routes (only tools, no crampons). I've seen some top notch published mixed climbers at popular crags around Canmore doing it lately. Which crags? Which routes? Perhaps this is a discussion that should be taken up at www.live-the-vision.com? We could always use another controversy, what with the Mt. Louis bolt flame war dying down and all... DM
Good old harlen eh!!
There's nothing like a good flame war :twisted: but I don't want to be the one to start it, therefore I will not name routes or people. I just wanted to get some feedback on this issue in gereral. Personally I hope that no one will see these unnamed persons and give it a try. There is a big difference between the climbers I've seen and some dude blindly scrapping at the rock trying it out for the first time.
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dead_milkman
Aug 6, 2003, 2:47 PM
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The reason I asked was mostly for clarity, really, as a number of popular crags - Grassi, Grotto, and so on - contain both sport and mixed routes. I've seen some people drytool some of the mixed routes at Grassi, for example, and seen people upset at this - for no good reason. I was just trying to determine if the routes in question were, in fact "sport" routes. Anyway, I've no interest in becomming the next Harlan! My personal opinion - and I'm not much of a sport climber, I'll admit - is that tools should be reserved for those times when climbing with one's fingers is not appropriate (i.e. winter mixed and ice climbing). Tools certainly damage rock. On choss like you might find at the back of Grotto this is not such a big deal, IMO... on some "classic" sport route with good rock... well, that's another issue ;)
Cheers, eh.
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