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downshift
Jan 26, 2002, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2001
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I've noticed in the gyms in my area there is about a 50 / 50 mix of fixed Belay stations and non-fixed Belay stations (where you belay off your harness). I was wondering what does everyone prefer?
Personally, I like to belay off my harness it give me a bit more mobility and I find that give me a better look at the route my partner is doing so I can offer help when it is needed.
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vaness
Jan 26, 2002, 11:13 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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are you talking abnout the ancors that are off the floor? i dont even use those if thats what your talking about. i dont like to. they make me feel traped
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512
Jan 27, 2002, 7:34 AM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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i always anchor in and I always belay from my harness
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fiend
Jan 27, 2002, 7:44 AM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: May 25, 2001
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Having worked at a climbing gym I've spent my fair share of time belaying people. When belaying for 8-10 hours straight then anchored belays are great. When being belayed by someone 70lbs lighter than me then anchored belays are also great.
Personally I can't stand belaying off my harness while at the gym, it's generally crowded anyways so you're still restricted in where you can stand.
Aside from multi-pitch routes, I never belay off an anchor outside.
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512
Jan 27, 2002, 8:28 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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The one thing I can not stand is when people belay me with a figure 8. Don't ask me why cause I proly couldnt tell you!
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cheapholds
Feb 12, 2002, 5:17 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
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anchoring to the floor increases shock loads during a fall. also, floor anchors restrict the movement of a belayer which is sometimes necessary. only use them if you have to because of weight issues...
[ This Message was edited by: cheapholds on 2002-02-11 21:23 ]
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