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traddad


Jan 29, 2002, 7:17 PM
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From the latest Lancet medical journal
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Researchers assessed over 250 consecutive climbers of a 4,500-meter mountain before ascent and upon arrival at the summit. Of the subjects, 75% had signs of subclinical high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), a finding that suggests that HAPE is the rule rather than the exception, even with moderate climbs that require only modest effort.

Reference: Cremona, G., Asnaghi, R., Baderna, P. et al. 2002. Pulmonary extravascular fluid accumulation in recreational climbers: A prospective study. Lancet 359(9303):303-309.

Traddad


gooch


Jan 31, 2002, 8:24 PM
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Good to know.
Recently got back from Nepal for a little trecking and though I only went up to 6000m, I certainly felt the effects of the altitude as far a appetite and sleeping were concerned. Felt strong when I was climbing though. You notice that your heart rate is going a million even when you just tie up your shoes.
A note for anyone who goes up high, even moderatley. In my 10 days in the mountains of Nepal,Everest base camp, Chokung Peak and some other stuff. 8 people died, and one friends father was heli rescued down with Cerabal Edema. 2 people died below 4500m.
Talking with the Sherpas and friend over there, people die EVERY day, they drop like flies in the spring time. The biggest culprit are these group tours that take a bunch of people up. No one wants to say they are feeling sick and can't go on and be left behind, because of the tight schedules. Everyone acclimitizes at a different pace.
BE CAREFUL, it is not just the summit teams that die in the mountains


amethyst


Jan 31, 2002, 8:45 PM
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Well, I think I just cancelled my mountaineering plans.


basecamp_junkie


Sep 3, 2002, 5:46 AM
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One thing to remember about HAPE is that the causes lie not so much in the amount of exertion on the part of the climber, but in the diffences in pressures between high and low altitudes, and the effect this has on particular climbers pulmonary artery pressure. It is impossible to know how you will react until you are there...


climbingcowboy


Sep 3, 2002, 7:04 AM
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 I just read this topic and wanted to let you guys know I wrote an article on this subject a couple weeks ago its really basic and if you want anything expailned in more detail PM me I'd be glad to help ya out. It's in the articles section, easy to find. Be safe up there this stuff is real.
Geoff

[ This Message was edited by: climbingcowboy on 2002-09-03 00:06 ]


overlord


Sep 3, 2002, 7:44 AM
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havent really thought about high-altitude climbing yet, but thank you guys anyways.

CLIMB ON


buzyrock


Sep 3, 2002, 8:24 AM
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I am trekking in Nepal and Indian Himalayas for last 10 years and feel that every word said above is true. Lotta people go high without knowing even the basics, and become easy prey. people forget that mountain is equally cruel or helpful to all.


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