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bustinmins
Aug 14, 2003, 9:30 PM
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As people grow in a skill and especially in a technical skill - they develop knowledge of great short cuts - simpler concepts etc. Simply put, better ways to do anything. I'd like to hear your favorite pieces of advice - what is in your bag of tricks?
Peace,
JD
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bustinmins
Aug 14, 2003, 10:02 PM
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The best one I've heard lately involved carrying a 48" sling utilizing a biner clipped through the ends. That way, when you grab for a long sling - you can pull it off with out pulling over your head and without getting caught up in your other slings. Simply unhook the biner and pull - it comes right out.
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dirtineye
Aug 14, 2003, 10:11 PM
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I put a leash with a slip knot in it on my nut tool, and tighten the slip knot aroudn my wrist when I'm seconding and htere are a lot of things to remove wiht the nut tool. That way, I can climb with the nut tool out of the way, but all I have to do is snap it up into my hand when I need it.
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maculated
Aug 14, 2003, 10:31 PM
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Or, you could just clip the leash to the rope while you second, and it will always be out of the way, never catch your hand, and ensure you don't drop it. Wonderful stuff.
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gravitysucks
Aug 14, 2003, 10:37 PM
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duck tape and wipeys. on and off.
:roll: :? :shock: :wink:
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hammer_
Aug 14, 2003, 10:42 PM
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While your placing a piece of gear always look for your next placement before you start climbing again.
Reason being:
-your usally at good stance to take a look around
-you can mentally prepare yourself for a long runout instead of panicing and wasting energy looking for pro then continuing on
-may help you stay on route and not wander
-you can put the piece of gear for the next placemant on the correct side of your harness if in entering a chimney or something
-you wont have to climb, take a look around, climb, take a look around, it will help you climb smoother
-If you next placement is 4m up or 20m up atleast you have a goal, If you come across a placement that you could not see and it suits you better, use it
-so basically your climbing from piece to piece which helps break up the pitch, and it may make a difficult pitch seem easier for some people
You should also be able to tell what piece of gear will work just from looking or at least by sticking your finger(s) in the crack or whatever it maybe. This will hep you climb quicker, SPEED IS YOUR FRIEND.
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venezuela
Aug 14, 2003, 10:44 PM
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I learned how to carry long draws (24 inch slings) in a easy fashion: you clip two biners, then you pass one of them through the other one, then you clip the two strands of sling that are attached to the first biner. That way you have a draw 1/3 of it's real length. when you wan to clip it a piece of pro, just take out the biner and clip only one of the strans and pull.
I'm sure somebody else can explain it better...anyone?
another trick: those chairs/saddles/little hamocks (I really have no idea how it's called in english) you use while belaying the second: GET ONE, your kidneys will thank you.
I carry my pro on a gear sling, and I turn aroud the biners so that the gate faces out and down. that way is much easier to get a specific nut, or hex, without taking out the whole biner.
take almost everything on your gearsling, and leave only the locking biners and belay artifacts on the harness...you won't feel like your pants are being pulled down.
well, maybe everybody already knows all these things, but they have helped me a lot.
bustinmins: thanks for the 48 inch sling tip: I'll try it next time....I usually carry them like my others but with a biner clipped on it, so that it doesn't get tangled.
hammer_ : thanks for the placing pro tip...
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petsfed
Aug 14, 2003, 10:58 PM
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I try to find out if I really have to go in two pitches if I have a 60m rope. For most climbs that I do at Vedauwoo (highest rock is about 250 feet tall), its easier and more enjoyable to do things in fewer pitches. When doing slabby rappells, I use both hands and pull the strands to either side of me. Makes me go faster without losing control. No good for steeper than about 80 degrees though. Be advised.
I also run it out in easy terrain. But that's another story.
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thegreytradster
Aug 14, 2003, 11:02 PM
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Hammer speaks the truth!
In addition, Don't pass up a bomber placement. It almost always saves time if you get a good placement from a good stance rather than fiddle with gear in the middle of a move. Even though you might not feel the immediate need for a piece, will you in 5-10-20ft?
The hammock thing is a Belay Seat. check with some of the aid gear suppliers to find one or make one from ripstop nylon and thin 1/2" webbing. They fit in your pocket. An adjustable daisy is a good accessory for one also so you can set it up just right.
Note: not useful except for steep multi pitch. If there are adequate belay ledges leave it home.
Having some over the shoulder single and double length runners made from Gemini and spectra cord is real useful. The stiffer cord is easy to poke around chockstones, behind things and stays in place when tieing off flakes etc. You can also go totaly retro and jam the knot also.
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thomaskeefer
Aug 14, 2003, 11:25 PM
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For rapelling from BOMBPROOF anchors (like those on chrimson at Red Rocks or the like) Simulrapping speeds things up immensely. If you are climbing using double ropes or twins and you are simulrapping you can clip an extra biner through the loop that you push through your atc... basically after you are set up to rap then just clip an extra biner through where your regular locker is and it makes the friction alot better. This is also handy when you are rapping with freezing cold hands.
The webolette is really quick to since it is so much easier to manage than a regular cordolette.
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thegreytradster
Aug 14, 2003, 11:42 PM
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You can make your own "webolette" by tieing eyes on both ends of a cordelet length pice of cord with modified Triple fishermans knots. Clip both eyes into the same piece for cordolet length or separate pieces when you need the extra length.
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bandycoot
Aug 14, 2003, 11:54 PM
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I used to put more than one cam on a carabiner. Now I've learned that I should rack them on their own, so that if a route is hard and or straight I can clip it instantly after it is placed.
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reno
Aug 15, 2003, 12:23 AM
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I buy all my runners in the same color for any given length. In other words, all my singles are Purple, all my 1.5's are blue, and all my double length runners are red. Makes it much easier to grab the one I want when reaching for the right size....
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bustinmins
Aug 15, 2003, 10:46 AM
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Cool recommendation Jeff. I just did this too - I bought four 24" red spectra runners. My multi-colored ones, other than red, I use in the 48" length and I have three 24" denim ones from REI for friction knots.
I'm curious about using a Daisy Chain...my other partner does not use one and just uses his long spectra runners - granted they are rated for a shock load and are a standard piece of equipment - what do you use/prefer? Right now I like my daisy but it does get in the way and I don't trust it like I do a runner. However, nothing adjusts like that.... :) Looking forward to everyones reply with regard to this - as I'm a newbie.
Peace,
JD
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lifeguard4
Aug 15, 2003, 1:48 PM
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In reply to: I'm curious about using a Daisy Chain...my other partner does not use one and just uses his long spectra runners - granted they are rated for a shock load and are a standard piece of equipment - what do you use/prefer? Right now I like my daisy but it does get in the way and I don't trust it like I do a runner. However, nothing adjusts like that.... :)
What I have found to work very well for me is the Metolius PAS (Personal Anchoring System) It is a lot like a daisy chain but instead of being one piece that is sewn together to make the loops there are totally separate loops that are sewn together. You just girth hitch one end to your harness and then clip the other end to one of your gear loops and when you get to the belay station you can clip which ever loop depending on the length that you need. I think that it is a good investment unless you are the type of person like one of my partners that isn't quite comfortable using it because as he says "There are more places in the system for it to fail." But it is very sturdy and hasn't made me think twice about it. You should check it out.
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norskagent
Aug 15, 2003, 1:51 PM
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downclimb back to rests or even the ground...I've done it as much as 20' or so, placing several pieces and retreating for a good rest...it doesn't invalidate your ultimate send.
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crag
Aug 15, 2003, 2:50 PM
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In reply to: what is in your bag of tricks?
Fear, yep that's what I carry in my bag, fear. It either gets me up a route or it keeps me on the ground. Sometimes fear is heavy and weighing me down other times its like she's not there and I barely notice her at all.
Other than what others have recommended I either already use or at least have tried. Someother tricks worth considering: I like racking all my wired gear on keyless biners. I have some old Bonatti death gates that I use for that.
Also, I use wired stoppers for impromptu-to quick draws, just need to slide up the nut. Also while seconding and I'm trying to remove a welded nut or hex if I can slide the cord/wire out of the top of the wedge or hex I then clip in a biner with a sling attached and presto a makeshift funkness device. Afterwhich you must closely inspect the wires for any fraying.
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vertical_reality
Aug 15, 2003, 3:09 PM
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Here's an idea for those who carry a kife. On the leg loops of my harness there are sleeves for tucking in the tails of my leg loops. I got a small knife with a belt clip and I tuck it inside the sleeve.
I also carry a cheap disposable camera with me too. I simply taped one of those cheap plastic keychair biners on it and then attached a peice of string to act as a tether. Clip it to the back of my harness and way to go. No worries about dropping it either.
Oh and this one is kind of stupid/common sense. The ends of my shoe laces always fray. You know that stupid plastic part that always gets shredded and takes forever to put back through the hole when it gets pulled out. Tie a knot in the end of the laces so that it can't get pulled through
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karmaklimber
Aug 15, 2003, 3:31 PM
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In reply to: Oh and this one is kind of stupid/common sense. The ends of my shoe laces always fray. You know that stupid plastic part that always gets shredded and takes forever to put back through the hole when it gets pulled out. Tie a knot in the end of the laces so that it can't get pulled through
Ingenious. I'll definately do that instead of trying to fiddle with the end of the lace, trying to tape it back together.
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vegastradguy
Aug 15, 2003, 5:06 PM
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JD-
clove hitch. strong, easily adjusted, and can be done with one hand if practiced enough, and you dont have to carry more crap on your harness to get in the way. on rappel, just use two runners to clip into anchor (because you should always have at least 2 points clipped in).
nut tool- use a short piece of shock cord instead of accessory cord. just stretch a piece out to arms length, and then cut it off. secure it to a small accessory biner and the nut tool. clip to harness.
rope management is the key to speed. learn to flake your ropes correctly and efficiently. take the time to set everything up and double (and triple) check it before you bring your second up. make sure that when your partner gets to belay, you're ready to go again or he is, depending on whos leading next....
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ricardol
Aug 15, 2003, 7:22 PM
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i'd have to agree with vegastradguy .. leave the daisy chain at home for trad, and instead tie in with the rope .. faster and less fuss .. for rappel use double length slings girth hitched to your harness.
.. what i've learned.. if you're going to be having ALOT of hanging belays (like chrimson chrysalis) .. wear knee pads .. then when you're haning you can be more comfortable. (it took several months for the feeling on my toe to come back after that route)
-- ricardo
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thegreytradster
Aug 15, 2003, 11:54 PM
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Tieing in with daisy chains, slings etc. also have another big disadvantage besides just complicating things, the ability to create a "human funkness device".
The importance of being organized at the belay can't be overemphasized!
The leads take, as long as they take!
The only way to make up time is to make sure everything else goes as swiftly and smoothly as possible.
Speed is sometimes life, but it's always the comfort of getting to the beer faster.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 16, 2003, 12:27 AM
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vegastradguy (thegreytradster to although you mentioned a webolette prev.)
you recommend a clove hitch instead of using a daisy, how do you rig it? Do you blow off equalization completely?
I prefer a daisy to a cordelette because it is lighter and quicker and you can still get some equalization, so one clove hitch and one daisy is what I use and always have.(I clip the rope in again somewhere to)
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thegreytradster
Aug 17, 2003, 5:32 PM
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A lot of climbers get locked into using only one technique for anchors. That can waste a lot of time complicate things, and result in a less than ideal anchor. I'll use everything from a loop in the climbing rope thrown around/under a bomber block or clipped back around a large tree to a cordelet and complicated anchor setup, depending.
True non-directional equalization almost never happens, (except at bolted anchors) and usually defeats non extensibility at least to some extent. You have to decide in each case what's most important and set your anchor up accordingly.
Number one rule though is that the anchor be tied in to the harness thru the climbing rope only.
(The "funkness device" is a simple but effective aid cleaning tool. 2'-3' of steel cable with an eye swaged on each end. One end is clipped to the piece and the other to the hammer. A couple of swats will either remove or destroy the most stubborn fixed gear.) If you used an equivalent length of climbing rope the same way its' elasticity would make it pretty useless.
If you tie in with a non energy absorbing sling/daisy, allow a foot or two of slack to accumulate, and slip or get jerked onto the anchors by a fall, you've effectively applied a funkness device to your anchor, your 100+ lb. body replacing the 1lb. hammer. (that's why the pockets on most aid daises are designed to blow out at around 500lb.)
Granted, this is an incredibly rare occurrence, but I suspect it has been a contributing factor in some catistrophic anchor failures.
The clove hitch is so simple and fast to use for semi hanging situations where you want to lean back on the anchor, there's really no reason to complicate things further.
As to my comment on the use of an adjustable daisy with a belay seat, it should run only to the seat and not be part of the anchor system. (Mine has taken up residence in the same box as my old swami. Modern harneses are comfortable enough to hang out in at least for a while anyway.)
If you do use slings etc. to get the weight off your feet etc., just take care that they stay tensioned and no slack accumulates to potentialy shock load the anchor.
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janiszewski11
Aug 17, 2003, 5:53 PM
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girth hitching your chalkbak to the back of your harness will some cord reduces waist clutter
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