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sbwyliedog
Aug 17, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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I'm going to North Carolina later this week and will be in the Winston-Salem area. I'm hoping to climb but I'd rather not bring a rack. Are there any moderate routes that can be top roped with cliff top access and natural pro or bolted anchors? Or do I just need to suck it up and bring a rack. If so would I be covered with 1 set of nuts, 4 smallest tricams, 1.5-3.5 friends. Any other useful pieces/sizes larger or smaller?
Thanks,
-SK
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yomomma
Aug 18, 2003, 4:04 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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I don't know of anything that fits that description at Moore's. However, Pilot Mt. has many moderate top ropes with easy cliff-top access and bolted anchors. Have fun (if it's not too hot and it doesn't rain! :( )
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rrrADAM
Aug 18, 2003, 4:53 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Not that I know of... In fact a climber needed to be rescued, and the rescue squad had to hike for 3 hours to get to the top in order to reap down from the trees.
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bumblie
Aug 18, 2003, 5:19 AM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Moores Wall has some tall (30') boulders that are commonly TRed, but I think Pilot is a better bet. Easy drive, easy approach & lots of TR opportunities. Unfortunately, I do not know about the TR routes. I've never messed with them. The sport routes start at 5.8, if that interests you.
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docscott
Oct 25, 2004, 3:58 AM
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Hi, I am bring a group of boy scouts to moores wall in mid november. We have to top rope so did you find any spots to set up the anchors from the cliff top or did you have to climb trad or sport to set them up and are there bolted anchors or what anchor systems did you use? Any feedback will help. I was wondering if we should try Pilot instead but it may be too late. I don't mind leading the route and setting it up but I need to plan my time accordingly. Thanks for your help. Scott
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clarki
Oct 25, 2004, 5:36 AM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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If you want to toprope some routes, Moores really isn't the best place to go. There are many stellar moderate routes there (all gear leads) but none of them lend themselves to TRing. There is one large boulder below the main cliff that could be set up but you would still need gear to rig it and there is maybe 1 or 2 marginal lines on its downhill face.
Pilot Mtn. is a MUCH better option. Boy Scouts and other groups regularily use this cliff because of the cool routes, ease of set-up and short approach. I take my kids there regularily. There are lots of 5.5-5.9 lines with two bolt anchors at the top and easy trail access to both the bottom and top of the cliff. There are also a surprising number of good quality sport leads starting at 5.8.
If either of you have any questions or need a topo and/or route info PM me or call the Great Outdoor Provision Co. in Winston-Salem 336-727-0906. Ask for John, Sean or Don.
Good Luck!
John
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organic
Oct 25, 2004, 6:28 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Moore's Wall is not a good place to tope rope. There is a strong no bolting ethic there so anchors are scant and with a lot of routes being multipitch not a stellar boyscout hangout.
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emilb
Oct 25, 2004, 6:46 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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Scott as some other folks have mentioned Moore's is not a good place to toprope. Most of the cliff is just too tall. There are a few large boulders along the approach that are sometimes toproped by beginner groups but for the most part it's just not practical. You also mention a mid November time frame -- Moore's tends to be butt cold that time of year since it's North facing. Pilot mountain would be a much better bet, toprope friendly and south facing.
Regards
Emil
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emotionus
Oct 25, 2004, 6:49 AM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
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So Pilot is nice? My grandparents live in lexington (near Winston Salem) and me and a friend are planing a trip up there this December to do some sport or TR.
Anyone have an idea of how cold it is there during December? =)
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j_ung
Oct 25, 2004, 7:02 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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There's a handful of TRs in the boulderfield beneath Moore's, but as others have pointed out, Pilot is a better option. You'll have many more routes and grades from which to choose and the clifftop is more easily accessible. Setting up from trees is officially not allowed at Pilot, but many routes now have bolt anchors. Be prepared to sling some blocks and maybe bring a light rack too.
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