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AF E-News #34 -- August 2003 The Access Fund your climbing future http://www.accessfund.org/ To view E-News on AF website, see http://www.accessfund.org/virtual_times/e-news34.html ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ IN THIS ISSUE: 1. Adopt-a-Crag Day -- September 6! 2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan and EA Comments Due August 28 3. Washington State’s North Cascades National Park To Develop A New Climbing Management Plan 4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky 5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show – Estes Park, CO 6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation Grants! 7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek Weekend 8. News from the Flatirons, CO 9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine 10. Journals and Memorabilia 11. Crazy Creek Blowout! 12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) 13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Adopt-a-Crag Day – September 6 There Is Still Time To Register Your Event! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Adopt-a-Crag Day is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. From the signs in the parking areas to the established trails systems to the rocks and boulders where we devote endless hours, climbers are frequent land-users. Therefore, it is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for the land. Register your event ASAP to ensure that you receive Access Fund support such as Clif Bars, Nalgene bottles, stickers, trash bags, and posters. For a complete list of events around the country or to register an event, see http://www.accessfund.org/events/aac_events.html. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan - Scoping Comments Due August 28! (Report from the Bureau of Land Management Scoping Newsletter -- July 29, 2003) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Indian Creek Corridor Plan: To address impacts from ORVs, camping, climbing and other recreational activities in the Indian Creek area, the BLM is developing an Indian Creek Corridor Plan with the help of the Bear West consulting firm. The BLM now seeks “scoping comments” from the public in order to develop the issues to be analyzed in the plan. Climbers should get involved throughout the entire planning process to ensure that our voice is heard and that appropriate issued are addressed. The Indian Creek corridor, located 50 miles southwest of Moab, Utah and bordering Canyonlands National Park, is one of the most outstanding crack climbing areas in the world. Indian Creek has a rich cultural and historical background and these resources are also included within the planning area. In addition to its agricultural and cultural resources, Indian Creek serves as a haven for climbers, hikers, campers, mountain bikers and horseback riders. It also shelters sensitive natural resources, such as raptor nesting sites, wildlife corridors and habitat, and native vegetation. Many of these resources are becoming impacted by increased use of the area, and many feel that mitigation measures are needed. Identifying and implementing an appropriate land management plan that protects Indian Creek’s unique resourcesæwhile accommodating human useæwill be the purpose of the new Indian Creek Corridor Plan. The Planning Process: To make the best possible management decisions for Indian Creek, the BLM will rely on an evaluation tool called an environmental assessment (EA). The EA process emphasizes public participation, development of issue-driven alternatives, and evaluation of environmental impacts. The purpose of the EA is to disclose to the public, and the BLM, the environmental impacts of any proposed changes to the current management of Indian Creek use. The planning process at Indian Creek begins with the identification of issues through public and agency “scoping.” The issues identified through this scoping process will direct the rest of the planning and analysis. An interdisciplinary team (including an Access Fund representative) will then be formed to develop a proposed action and define its purpose and need. After a thorough analysis of the potential impacts resulting from proposed changes in the current management of Indian Creek use, a series of alternatives will be developed, including the proposed or “preferred action” and a “no action” alternative. The BLM will then present these alternatives in a Draft Environmental Assessment (Draft EA). The public will have an opportunity to review and comment the Draft EA, all of which will be considered during the preparation and finalization of the Final Environmental Assessment (Final EA). The BLM will then use the Final EA for their decision regarding the proposed management of the Indian Creek Corridor Plan. Tentative Project Schedule: Public Scoping July 29, 2003 End of Scoping August 28, 2003 Draft EA September 2003 Public meetings October 2003 Final EA November 2003 Decision December 2003 The BLM needs to hear from you! Public participation is a key element of the environmental assessment process, and the climbing community must be involved to be heard. Please provide your comments on any issues that you feel are relevant to the management of the Indian Creek corridor. Bear West will take your email or letters, but all comments are due Thursday August 28, 2003. For further information please contact the project consultants at Bear West -- Ralph Becker or Laura Hanson. Bear West 145 South 400 East Salt Lake City, Utah 84111 Phone: 801.355.8816 Fax: 801.355.2090 Rbecker@bearwest.com or lhanson@bearwest.com For more information, download the BLM Scoping Newsletter (560K) at http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/IndianCreekScopeProcess.pdf ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 3. Washington State’s North Cascades National Park To Develop A New Climbing Management Plan ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Over the past few years, outstanding new sport climbing and bouldering areas have been developed north of Seattle in the Skagit River Gorge between the towns of Newhalem and Diablo. Route development includes bolted sport climbs and bouldering, both of which require the cleaning of moss and vegetation. Local climbers have also been active clearing rock and debris to create trails and improve landing zones at bouldering areas. A detailed website of one of the climbing areas has been developed and word has spread quickly among the Seattle climbing community. Last year the cleaning of moss and debris at the bouldering area created some controversy when a NPS ranger found tools cached by the boulderers and confiscated them. Around that time, the Access Fund met with NPS officials to start a communication process for local climbers to be informed about the concerns of park rangers. Also, climbers would be informed about the degree of acceptable climbing, bouldering and cleaning. There is great potential for additional climbing areas in the many front-country areas of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area (a sub-unit of North Cascades NP), but the NPS asked local climbers to stop developing both the new bouldering and bolted sport climbing routes while a climbing management plan (CMP) was being developed for the area and resource impacts were analyzed. Local climbers agreed to halt their development of the area while a CMP is developed. In early July, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to the North Cascades National Park Complex and met NPS officials to discuss climbing management alternatives for the CMP and perform a site inspection of the new rock climbing and bouldering areas just upstream from the town of Newhalem. Keith also met with local climbers to hear their concerns and comments for managing the area. He was later accompanied by seven senior level NPS staff -- including the park supervisor, chief ranger, and several lead resource specialists -- into the field to inspect the sport climbing and bouldering areas. After viewing the climbing and bouldering, park officials expressed concern about the cleaning of moss and leveling of landing zones. Nevertheless, they were open to some new route and bouldering development. The upcoming CMP will likely include a process whereby new sport routes and bouldering can be developed. This fall a climbing management “scoping” letter is planned to go public. A draft CMP should be released for comment sometime this winter. If all goes according to plan, new route development at this excellent area could be authorized by next year’s climbing season. To become involved and comment on the upcoming climbing management plan for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area, write: Roy Zipp Natural Resource Specialist North Cascades National Park 7280 Ranger Station Road Marblemount, WA 98267 Roy_Zipp@nps.gov ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky (Submitted by Shannon Stuart-Smith, RRGCC Executive Director and Access Fund Board Member) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) is very proud to announce the Murray Property Project and its new web site dedicated exclusively to the largest direct climbing land acquisition ever by a local climbing organization. The website address is http://www.thered.org. As part of our mission to “ensure quality outdoor climbing opportunities to meet the needs of present and future climbers by protecting, promoting, and ensuring responsible climbing” at the Red, the RRGCC is raising the money to buy over 700 acres of some of the best climbing land in the United States, The RRGCC is directly buying this exceptional, high-quality land as the surest way to protect continued climbing access and opportunities. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show – “First Couple of Rock” Estes Park, CO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Date: Friday, September 12 Time: 8:00 PM Location: Hyde Chapel, YMCA of the Rockies Estes Park Center, 2515 Tunnel Road, Estes Park, CO Cost: $5 at the door. This show is a benefit for the Access Fund and is being held in conjunction with the organization’s national grassroots Activists Summit. There will also be a raffle, silent auction and membership drive. Marmot and W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. will present the premiere of the lives of Beth and Tommy. This intimate profile, a production by Corey Rich and Jason Paur, is an inside look of the life and times of two of the world’s most accomplished rock climbers. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation Grants! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ A special thank you goes out to all of our members who contributed to our recent appeal to raise funds for Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grants. As of August 6, 2003, 113 members contributed $9,625.00 for this cause. Climbing Preservation Grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment across the United States. In 2002, the AF awarded over $120,000 in grants. In the first half of 2003, $29,500 was awarded to assist parking improvements, campgrounds, trailhead facilities, land acquisitions, and provide organizational and start-up assistance for Local Climbing Organizations nationwide. Your support makes this generous funding possible. Thanks again to our members whose contributions will help support this crucial program! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek Weekend ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI) is seeking volunteers for a work weekend September 27 and 28 doing trail construction at Indian Creek. The project goal is to build a climbing access trail to Bridger Jack. Consider spending a day climbing and a day working, or join RMFI for two days of work if possible. We’ll meet at 9:00am at the trailhead for Bridger Jack. Bring your own food, water, camping gear, and RMFI will supply work gloves and tools. Call or email the Rocky Mountain Field Institute to register by the week before the event. Call (719) 471-7736 or email rmfibox@aol.com. RMFI is also seeking volunteers for trail work and alpine restoration in South Colony Lakes Basin, Sangre de Cristo range on August 29-September 1 and September 6-9. Base camp and food will be provided. Call or email RMFI for more information and application. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 8. News from the Flatirons, CO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The Flatirons Climbing Council goes live! Visits their new website for the latest climbing news and events in the Flatirons of Colorado. See http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/ Third Flatiron reopens to public The Third Flatiron re-opened August 1st along with other areas of Open Space and Mountain Parks lands that have been closed for the raptor-nesting season. These areas are closed seasonally each year to protect nesting raptors and their chicks. The Third Flatiron was home to two late nesting prairie falcon fledglings. Staff performed daily assessments of the area to be sure it was safe to re-open and have determined that the fledglings have successfully left the nest. "Area visitors will notice falcons for the next few weeks, but are urged to keep as much distance as possible between themselves and the birds," said Rick Hatfield, Open Space and Mountain Parks Ranger/Naturalist. "We appreciate the patience of the climbing community and other visitors during this closure." Staff reminds visitors that it is against federal law to harm or disturb falcons, and asks that any unusual raptor activity be reported to Open Space and Mountain Parks. For more information, please visit www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace. For raptor closures and restrictions nationwide, see http://www.accessfund.org/access/access_restrictions.html. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate sponsor of the Access Fund and has been since 1993. "Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock and Ice magazine. The Access Fund is THE climbers voice, speaking for all of us in key political circles, working to keep our crags open for today’s -- and tomorrow's -- climbers." Duane Raleigh Editor in chief and publisher ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 10. Journals and Memorabilia ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The Access Fund has the following journals for sale. Email heather@accessfund.org to inquire about availability or to make an offer. High 118, 153, 156, 160-162, 164, 166, 179, 180, 183, 191, 194 Mazama December 1940-1988 (48 total) American Alpine News Issues - 1985-1988 (vol. 1-4); 1989 (spring and fall); 1999 (vol. 8) Adirondack Alpine Journal - #1 - #8 (Dec '83 - April 86) Leeds University Union - Climbing Club Journal 1974 Rock: Australia's Climbing Magazine 1987 Flash - Vol. 1 #'s 1-4 Connection - Vol. 1 (2-4); Vol. 2 (1-3) Sport Climbing - Vol. 2 (#4); Vol. 3 (#1-3) The Climbing Art- #25 Summit - Nov. 1965, June 1978, Jan. 1989, May 1989, Winter 1991 Crags - 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29 Descent - 1972, 1990 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 11. Crazy Creek Blowout! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Our Crazy Creek chair makes for cushy belaying and great lounging at your campsite. They are available in navy blue, royal blue, or forest green. The price is $30 (while supplies last). To order, visit https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 for at least $50 will reap the following benefits: MIP Levels and Benefits: $50 - Access Fund T-shirt $100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine $250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo $500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo $1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed, it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and allocate more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject. Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200 per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE). To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ AF E-NEWS POLICIES: 1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists. 2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers. 3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members. 4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.
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