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jono13


Jan 30, 2002, 4:48 PM
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hey, i currently have a finger board to help with my strength, and im thinking of getting a campus board. BUT, i heard that you shouldnt get one until you climbing above 11a's. my goal for the summer is to be climbing 11's, should i bother getting a board?


stickit


Jan 30, 2002, 5:04 PM
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Wow! I climb 5.10's (on a really good day!)and not 11's, and I use campus boards whenever they're around. Good training but you can get huge flappers.


sizzlechest


Jan 30, 2002, 5:47 PM
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I believe the statment about not using the campus board till your climbing at least 5.11's is true, actually i'd bump it up to 12 a even, I'm climb quite alot and i climb 13b when in good shape, lots of these routes i have done without having campus training, the problem is you can injure yourself really easy if your not in super strong bouldering strength, you my friend will benifit way more from a 45 degree bouldering wall, this will make you get tonnes of power and power endurance, you can also work endurance on it, start with big holds then work to crimps slopes and pinches, the is way fun when you cram a bunch of pals in the basement or garage and crank away.
hope this helps any other questions just ask !! happy crankin, see you in the bow valley !!
[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-01-30 17:48 ]

[ This Message was edited by: sizzlechest on 2002-01-30 17:52 ]


sidepull


Jan 30, 2002, 6:00 PM
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Many climbing trainers advocate building a strong base. This theory relates both to building your tick list and your conditioning.

For instance -- and you seem to already understand this -- just because the YDS is linear that doesn't mean your progress will naturally go 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, etc. Instead you'll have to climb a lot of routes at each level with an occasional stab at a higher level.

Conditioning is similar and even more determined by individual physiology. I doubt I'd start campusing right now. There's a ton of more fundamental exercises you could do and once you master these exercises you'll be conditioned to campus. That said, it's possible that you already are ready to be campusing.

Really you have to assess your individual training needs. Remember that working the weakest link can also lead to breaking it (e.g. if campusing is really hard for you then you probably want to build up to it doing a more moderate exercise).

However, if you're asking simply because of space requirements then the answer might be completely different. At any rate, read all of the training articles by Neil Gresham on www.planetfear.com.


jt512


Jan 30, 2002, 6:14 PM
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I would recommend against campus training until you've been climbing hard 11s for a couple of years. The problem with campus training is that it is very effective; you will build finger strength fast, faster than you will build strength in the connective tissues of the fingers, which can result in torn ligaments.

Ligaments take time to strengthen. Keep working up the grades for another year or so before you starting hitting the campus board.

-Jay

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-01-30 19:25 ]


crackaddict


Jan 30, 2002, 6:45 PM
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I built a free standing campus wall before I climbed 11's. I went out and bought some franklin campus rungs before I knew what I was getting into and it ended up being harder than I could imagine. But I was able to train myself to use them by making a panel with jib holds on it. I made the same movements of campusing but with my feet on something. I know its not the exact movement as campusing but, it trained my muscles until I was strong enough to do it.
Make sure you have big holds or rungs down before you attempt the small holds.


rigel


Jan 30, 2002, 7:18 PM
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if you are going to jump right to the finger board start with just hanging for a while so you can slowly load your fingers before doing more dynamic pulling movements.

whatever you do, don't try to move up too fast. i know from experience that a blown finger is no fun. i was lucky, mine only took 3 months to heal.


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