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jono13


Jan 30, 2002, 4:53 PM
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hey, just wondering how to make the jump from a 10 climber to an 11 climber. im currently going ot the gym 2-3 times a week, working on my hangboard every day, running, and doing some weight training. i am improving, but any way to increase the improvement? thanx, ciao


vicum


Jan 31, 2002, 11:14 AM
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Try boulding and really working on footwork and technique. That's what has been helping me. ~Arnold


joemor


Feb 1, 2002, 4:38 PM
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try training less..... muscle is built when the body rests. you need 24h in between hard training, especially hang boards when youre working on tendon strength.

joe


o0ocindyo0o


Feb 1, 2002, 5:20 PM
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Boulder and rest


metoliusmunchkin


Feb 2, 2002, 7:38 AM
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It appears to me, that you are doing, at this point in time, all you can to become a better climber. With your efforts in the gym (three times a week), weight training, and finger board training, you should acquire the grade of 11a in no time.

You are doing quite a bit of training, and, in order to, as you had stated, 'increase your improvement rate,' would mean that you would have to train more, and climb more. In your case, I feel that you are training a great deal, and as for going to the gym three times a week, well, that's plenty of a week's worth training. There is a line between training, and over training, and you're flirting with it.

To increase your level of training, would not be too healthy, as Joemor had said, your body needs some time to recuperate, and to train more, in your case, would most cetainly not give your body a sufficient rest.

Patience. You are training to your maximum cabability at the moment, patience is the only thing that you must have, to increase your grade level.

If you continue your regular routine of training/climbing, and add some patience to the concoction, you will be climbing 11's in no time!

[ This Message was edited by: metoliusmunchkin on 2002-02-02 07:40 ]


madscientist


Feb 2, 2002, 8:49 AM
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It does not sound like you are overtraining to me, but you do have to be carefull to get enough rest. I find that changing the schedule around a little every week helps alot.

If you are using the hangboard every day, you are probably not resting your forearms enough. I would cut back to using the hangboard only on the days you climb. Use the hangboard before you go climbing if you are doing routes, and skip it all together if you are bouldering. The key is that you build muscle while resting, so if you don't rest long enough after exercise, your muscles will not get as much out of the next work out.

You seem to have a well rounded training schedule. Cardio, lifting, and climbing. I do all three also, and believe everyone should if they want to climb thier best. The key is how much of each to do. Evaluate what your weaknesses are, and train your weakness.

You state that you run. When and how much? For climbing, it is best to do long slow runs than sprints, in fact running fast may not do you much good. It will build leg muscles, but not do much to reduce your body fat. Also, running in the morning is more benificial than evenings.

Once again, I am not sure what your strengths and weaknesses are, but be carefull about lifting. I can only do 18 pull ups, but I can also do one arm lock offs in any position for 20 seconds or more. Your body will adjust to whatever exercise you do. If you can do 12-15 pull ups, I would stop doing alot of pull ups, and start working power in the back. I skip any kind of lifting that uses the main muscles for climbing to avoid injury, but I also climb over 10 routes in the gym often. I also lift the opposing muscles, like chest, some shoulder, tris, etc. If you are lifting legs, don't stop, but don't try to build bulk. Lifting can be a great way to reduce body fat, but only if you do high reps. If you are lifting leg muscles, start doing high reps. Somewhere around 30 reps per muscle group.

There is much more, but I would have to have more specifics about your training habits. A while back, weight lifters and body builders found out it was important to keep changing thier schedule. If you are doing the same routine every week, start changing your routine. The may just be changing the order in which you lift. It may mean that one week you climb routes before using the hangboard. Every now and then break the rules of training, but not very often. Twice a month is good.

Finally, listen to your body. If it is saying rest, rest.



barney_89012


Feb 8, 2002, 8:17 PM
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dude, just eat right, and when you are climbing just climb hard. i would boulder for at least a month, and go back to routes. I bet youll see a big improvment.


crackaddict


Feb 8, 2002, 9:10 PM
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If your solid on 10's just start jumping on 11's on the rock and at the gym. Gym routes are good to practice and get the endurance your going to need for the rock. Don't be affraid to hang and figure it out. Onsight is the best way but it does'nt always happen. So don't get dicouraged and don't give up. It worked for me. With everthing else you are doing you can't go wrong.
Good luck.


goopermc


Feb 8, 2002, 10:56 PM
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Boulder, Boulder, Boulder. Pick a difficult bouldering problem, and keep working on it until you have it. Then keep doing it until the moves feel like second nature.

My only other advice is to focus on footwork and technique. If you are strong and athletic (which it sounds like you are from the running and lifting) it is possible to just overpower 5.10ís. It is MUCH harder to overpower 5.11ís.


codey


Feb 9, 2002, 4:13 AM
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  Just climb!


vishnuepie


Feb 9, 2002, 6:16 AM
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VERY IMORTANT:
If your climbing that much each week, be sure and have a long warm up, and stretch each of your fingers after the warm up, and when your done climbing for the day, or else you might end up in 3 months of hell like me


aulwes


Feb 9, 2002, 7:47 PM
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I'm in the 5.10 - low 5.11 range (I can do only a few 5.11's (mostly slab)) for me it takes time. Just keep on climbing! Just find someting that works for you everyone body type is different.


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