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fiend
Feb 2, 2002, 11:07 PM
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I was just on the Tori Allen website and I noticed this:
Quote:
Tori Sets World Record
9/10/01
World Record Set-Youngest Woman to summit--The Nose, El Capitain, Yosemite, CA
Why are we so obsessed with putting a new spin on things and needing to be the first to do something?
Tori climbed the Nose. Good for her. End of story.
On some level, being the first to do something makes you a pioneer but really, where do we draw the line?
Is being the first blind Mexican with a Terrier/Chow mix seeing-eye dog with brown fur to summit Everest really that big of a deal? I mean 5 other blind Mexicans with Terrier/Chow mix seeing-eye dogs with black fur just climbed the damn thing last week.
Discuss amongst yourselves ....
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maxx
Feb 2, 2002, 11:30 PM
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But she's so young and cute and carries a stuffed monkey! (blah! )
Doesn't really matter to me though. Climbers are climbers. (unless you're climbing 5.14's when you're 7- haha, that'd be cool)
She has my respect though! She's younger then me and most likely climbs better.
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 12:38 AM
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i think it is going to far too
i was just on the site and it has a list of things that she got 1st place on
didnt she aid climb the nose anyway? i might be wrong but i heard that she aid climbed it
lots of people can climb that good and better than her...do they have web-sites with all there 1st placees and acomlishments on it?
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elcapbuzz
Feb 3, 2002, 12:52 AM
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vaness, EVERYONE aid climbs the nose.
Except Lynn Hill. She is the only person who has climbed it from the ground up, ALL FREE.
Just clearing up the confusion.
Yeah, I think people push the first thing a little to far.
When my son was 9, I asked him if he wanted to climb El Cap with me. He asked, "Will I be the youngest to climb it?" I told him, yes. Big mistake. He focused all of his energy into being the youngest and forgot about the climb.
We got a few pitches up the Zodiac and bailed.
Cheers, Ammon.
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 1:12 AM
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well if its aid climbed then why is it some big achevement to be the youngest? i mean is it really that hard to aid climb? i dont have anyexpierence with aid climbing but i dont see the glory in being the youngest of anything. tori allen was 13 when she did that... why couldnt a 7 year-old do it? and why does she post that all around her web-site like she wants everyone to know... like she is thriving for attention or something...
(sorry if im sounding unexperienced with aid climbing or anything but i am and i know next to nothing about it)
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 1:14 AM
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whats the rating on the nose anyway?
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woodse
Feb 3, 2002, 1:26 AM
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I think the nose is 5.13b, I think!
woodsE
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daggerx
Feb 3, 2002, 1:42 AM
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not really on topic of the noise at el cap.
But if you have met Tor and her parents you would see its mostly her parents that stress her climbs. She is perty cool till thier with her then shes a total B.
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elcapbuzz
Feb 3, 2002, 1:45 AM
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Yeah, the Nose is 13b or A2.
Scott Burk is the only other person to come even close to freeing it and he swears it's 14b. (he said a foot hold broke off)
So, in all reality who knows if Tori even lead any pitches. She could have jumared the entire route and it still would have been a legitement ascent.
What's the big deal, you ask.
Well, I don't know that much about the ascent. So I can't really say.
If she climbed it solo, or even with a friend her own age. I say that's PROUD, indeed.
If she was guided up the Nose, well.....
Let's just say I could guide a 5 year old up the Nose, but it's still a good acomplishment.
El Capitan is a very intimadating piece of rock. It looms over you as though to say "I dare you to even "TRY" and climb me". It takes a lot of courage, comitment, and energy to even continue to go up, sometimes.
But.... I don't think it's that big of a deal. If she climbed another 20 routes in the next 2 years on the Captain, then I would be impressed.
I wonder if she needs a guide?
Ammon
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jules
Feb 3, 2002, 1:52 AM
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I really don't like Tori Allen.
I sent her an email telling her exactly how much I don't like her.
It wasn't very nice.
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elcapbuzz
Feb 3, 2002, 2:01 AM
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Well, I try not to dislike anyone.
It sounds like she was climbing with Hans Florine. It also sounds like she was trying to work the free climbing moves.
I think that's GREAT. More power to her if she could actually free it. My gut feeling is she is a LONG way from being able to do it.
I don't know, I'll ask Hans.
AM
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 2:19 AM
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for a while i didnt like tori allen either but thats cuz i thought that she was in it for the money (after reading an artical that said how much prize money she made each yeah)but now i acctully respect her and her climbing... all of my friends rub it in to me that she is better than me like i dont know...but its not like i didnt like her because she was a better climber than me, that would mean i would like a whole lot of people. tori allen might only be climbing for the money and she might have her web site to get people to notice her or she might just climb because she likes it but she still climbs really good and im not going to be an ass because of it
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jules
Feb 3, 2002, 2:39 AM
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You're a good person, vanessa.
I'm not, though.
I still think she's a show-off. And, first impressions are lasting.
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 3:03 AM
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i dont think she is a show off...she just likes what she is doing, i dont blame her, climbing is the best thing that i ever tried and she probly likes it just as much as i do if not more. she cant help it if she is good and she wants to climb at her own level of dificulty...i feel really guilty that i ever disliked tori allen...
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maxx
Feb 3, 2002, 3:46 AM
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To Vaness's comment
Quote:
and why does she post that all around her web-site like she wants everyone to know... like she is thriving for attention or something
Tori didn't make the web site, she doesn't really have any editing part in the web site. It's all run by someone else. So she's not posting it all around, someone else is.
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orestes1724
Feb 3, 2002, 3:49 AM
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juliana i dont think tori allen is a show off. i think her parents try to show her off because they are rich and they like to have power. im probably wrong, as i am with everything. but tori allen can climb good. who knows, maybe she doesnt even like it maybe she climbs to make her parents happy. maybe im wrong and she loves it but her parents still show her off. either way she climbs good andi respect her for that.
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vaness
Feb 3, 2002, 2:33 PM
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max:
thanks for setting me straight on that, i figured after i wrote that post that it didnt have much to do with tori
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maxx
Feb 3, 2002, 2:43 PM
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no problem
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russman
Feb 3, 2002, 7:39 PM
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Hey elcap...my son is almost 10 months and just barely learnign to walk...wanna guide the youngest up the Nose...I will glady bring him...and of course tag along for the thrill of a life-time. I have a wall in my garage that I plan on training him in...what do you want the youngest age to be?
His first birthday is April 16...how about a first b-day present We can show all those "I am the Youngest" crowd
JUST KIDDING TO ALL...thoguth it would be funny
[ This Message was edited by: russman on 2002-02-03 11:45 ]
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blackaven
Feb 3, 2002, 9:37 PM
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yeah, but look at her FLY!
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pushfurther
Feb 3, 2002, 10:19 PM
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after watching the 6 minute propaganda film, i am now tori allen's biggest fan.
this post was sarcastic.
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maculated
Feb 3, 2002, 10:23 PM
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I feel kind of bad for her. That website made me hate her, but she's just a 12 year-old with some major rock skills. It sucked being 12.
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elcapbuzz
Feb 3, 2002, 11:30 PM
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Haa ha ha, Good one Russman.
I don't think I would take anyone under 5. I think to make a legit ascent the "youngest" would have to get to the top under their own power.
Let's face it, we could haul a 6 month old up in a "Very Padded" haul bag and call it the youngest ascent.
I don't think that would be the best of styles.
If he truly loves climbing when he gets older, tie a rope to some trees and see if he likes jumaring.
That's how I got my son into it. He couldn't get enough. (Here's to you Austin)
As for Torri, well....I don't think it's her fault. The media likes to focus on trivial things.
Being female is one and being so young is another.
She didn't have a chance.
Cheers, Ammon
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russman
Feb 3, 2002, 11:58 PM
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i figured you would like that Ammon
Wasn't plannign on it...will wait 5 years
Lots of ideas to get my son interested in tons of stuff...Baseball, Horses, Climbing, Camping, Hunting (his namesake:)
Just another funny post
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socialclimber
Feb 4, 2002, 10:26 AM
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Once apon a time, first to the top of the mountian was the only first that mattered. Those were the days when blind people, double amputees, New York socialites with money to burn and geriatrics had no intrest in climbing. Now we are inundated with mere fractions of first that it's hard to get excited about them anymore.
If Tori Allen has a genuine gift for climbing we shouldn't let the money overshadow that. I never hear anyone complaning that Tiger makes US$30,000,000 per year. All I hear is hes a great golfer. If anyone could make a living from something they love doing, then more power to them. To that end, blowhard websites and fake firsts are a necesary evil.
[ This Message was edited by: socialclimber on 2002-02-04 02:35 ]
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