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voltzwgn
Sep 4, 2003, 5:13 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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The guide book shows a right and left start and a right and left finish. For a first time up any one have recommendations? I'm taking someone up for their first multi-itch. Any words on kindergarten crack, a better choice. Looks like Jr. High's a longer router would like to get a nice day climb in or maybe do one on School Rock and move to another wall or climb after that. Open to recommendations from those with experience in the area. I'm up for something 5.8 and below.
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tahquitztwo
Sep 4, 2003, 8:30 AM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2002
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Any of the climbs on School Rock are good first timer multipitches....
Kindergarten Cracks has a couple of interesting 5.6 starts...Mary's Crack has an interesting roof pull through on second pitch (depending on where you set up belays)...Junior High's left and right starts....I've done the left start and left finish.....there's a real pengy issue for the second on the left start so watch the pro...and it can sometimes be difficult to hear each other depending on where you put the belay for the end of the first pitch.
All of the climbs are fun. Grouse Slab has some good one to two pitch easy 5.6 and up climbs if you're looking for some other places..it's just a short hike up the trail from School Rock.
I've always found Donner in general to be a fun place to climb, alittle of something for everyone. Have a great time! :D
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monkey
Sep 4, 2003, 8:52 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
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There are some good ones on Black Wall too. One Hand Clapping comes to mind, although the second pitch might be 5.9, I forget, I guess checkout book.
Composure (5.6) on Snowshed might suite your needs. Not much of multi-pitch but at least your partner would get to see how it works. You can set an anchor on the ledge above the little roof, belay your friend up, then cruise the last little bit to the top.
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joebuzz
Sep 4, 2003, 9:41 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2002
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Yup, I lived in Truckee for many years and pretty much learned to climb at Donner Summit. As far as School Rock goes, the three different variations are 5.5 on the left, 5.6 center, and about 5.8 right side; these are all the first pitch variations.
Though not multi-pitch nessessarily, Snowshed Wall just down the road is Awesome! Everything from 5.6 on up. Start with Composure(5.6), go to Devaluation(5.7+; Huh, What's that mean?), Telegraph Crack(5.8), Nova Express(5.9+), and plenty more. Twoof my favs are Molar Concentration(10a/b) and Jam Session(10a) almost right next to each other.
Anyway, I certainly hope you have fun.
Joe
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 20, 2004, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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In reply to: Start with Composure(5.6), go to Devaluation(5.7+; Huh, What's that mean?), Telegraph Crack(5., Nova Express(5.9+), and plenty more. Twoof my favs are Molar Concentration(10a/b)
Great advice. These are all great routes, especially Molar Concentration. Composure was my first trad lead.
Joebuzz gave you great advice. Take it.
Matt
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