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Dyno or not to Dyno?
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aulwes


Feb 5, 2002, 11:48 AM
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Dyno or not to Dyno?
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A friend of mine (john), put up a really nice(V2 or 3) three/four move route, and today is the first time anyone other than john was abl to do the route.

I made the route, but I didn't dyno, I matched on the sloper/crimp and pushed down on the hold (john can't do the route that way he is a dyno stud), and reached for the pocket. instead of jumping and throwing for the pocket.

Should I train at dyno's since I suck at them, or should I just keep training using nice smooth static moves?

If I should train for more dynos what should I do?


[ This Message was edited by: aulwes on 2002-02-05 11:50 ]


natec


Feb 5, 2002, 11:58 AM
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My advice would be to train all of your techniques. There are many situations where you will have to dyno to complete a route or problem. Also, it is sometimes more energy efficient to dyno past a hard static move.

If you can do the tough static moves, good for you. It is usually harder to do a move static.

I say train all your moves and be as well rounded as you can.


aulwes


Feb 5, 2002, 12:02 PM
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I thought it took more energy to do dynamic moves. (that's how it feels to me)


dontneedfeet


Feb 5, 2002, 12:17 PM
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I think dynos are more taxing on the fingers, but occasionally they save a lot of time and energy versus doing a huge lockoff/reach statically. I'm a four move wonder nowadays, so when I know a huge dynamic move is possible, I go for it. You may want to check out www.climbxmedia.com Pro Tips section on dynos if you haven't yet.


rigel


Feb 5, 2002, 12:32 PM
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aulwes,

depends on the problem. a single dyno from two bomber holds, six feet up to another bomber jug in my opinion is less taxing than navigating the four tiny crimpers that would take you there statically. i think it just depends on the problem.

more generally speaking, i agree with the other guys...ideally, i would like to be able to do it either way.


aulwes


Feb 5, 2002, 10:17 PM
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Thanks guys,
I see that it would be benificial to be a more well rounded climber.


fiend


Feb 5, 2002, 11:15 PM
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The way I figure it, if you know you're bad at something and avoid it then that's just what's going to hit you next time you're waaaaaaaaay run out and it starts to rain

So train your weaknesses.


metoliusmunchkin


Feb 7, 2002, 2:50 PM
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Quote:Should I train at dyno's since I suck at them, or should I just keep training using nice smooth static moves?

If you do in fact 'suck at dynos' than you must certainly work at them. As Mark had stated, you must always train your weaknesses, and transform them, to your strengths. Each and every climber has a weakness, and this is not such a terrible thing, however, I feel that it is a most terrible thing, when climbers choose not to improve their weaknesses, and yet only work harder upon their strengths.

Aulwes: You should certainly train for dynos, because, one cannot always get to the top of a route, by proceeding with the 'nice smooth static moves' that you like to use. Some routes require dynos, and if one is not properly trained this can be a problem.

The method I use for training dynos, is not to do it so much outdoors, yet more indoor artificial climbing. I will pick one, large hold upon a wall (while bouldering, I might add), and dyno to it, increasing my length of dyno throughout the course of the training period. Once you become quite good at dynoing, using this method, you can move you dynoing game to outdoor boulder problems/routes.

I feel that dynos, when it can be avoided, is not the best path to travel. Dynos can greatly decrease one's energy on a climb, yet also can these static moves. However, when static moves become such a strain, that they become very energy-consuming, than it is here where dynos are needed.

The fact that you Aulwes, found a way to send the route, without the use of dynos (a quite interesting quality, for it shows to us that you think your actions through while upon the rock face, and you find alternative/easier ways of overcoming a problem), is quite pleasing to me. You have proven yourself quite a good climber, if I do say so myself.


kriso9tails


Feb 7, 2002, 3:28 PM
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I was working a route at the gym, and I was a little sketchy on this move that went up to a sloped pinch. Normally I would have given up and thaken the whipper, but insted I threw a full dyno for it and stuck. It's not the most useful move of all time, but it can get you out of a jam or two... plus it's fun and flashy .


barney_89012


Feb 8, 2002, 8:13 PM
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i say train. dynos are fun, when you can do them. they also make you stronger, and hive you the fast twitch. Ill throw to the tiniest holds i can find, and try to stick them, and then ill try slopers, or pinches. now when i have to statica move i am strong enugh to hold on to the hold.
oh and have a good spotter.


metoliusmunchkin


Feb 12, 2002, 7:17 PM
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Oh yes, and I forgot to mention, that when practicing dynos, whether it be indoor climbing, or outdoor climbing, one should always use a spotter.

I feel that that statement goes without saying. One time, I was practicing a dyno for the first time, and my 'spotter' was not paying attention, and when the sudden move came, so did the ground. The ground came so quickly in fact, that I was not ready for the fall, and landed on my back, hurting my elbow pretty badly. So remember, when practiving certain moves, with any sort of leniency whatsoever, always, always, use a spotter.


rockhippie


Feb 12, 2002, 8:09 PM
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Dynos are a great confidence builder. When faced with a difficult situation sometimes you just gotta go 4 it. all or nothing!!


metoliusmunchkin


Feb 13, 2002, 4:59 PM
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Quote:Dynos are a great confidence builder. When faced with a difficult situation sometimes you just gotta go 4 it. all or nothing!!

I would most certainly have to agree with you 100%. Dynos can create a major boost in confidence, for even the most shy of climbers. Those of us who prefer static moves, and try avoiding dynos at ever turn, whilst attempting dynos through training, become most definitely more confident. And not only in just dynoing, but through all of their climbing as well.

'Sometimes you just gotta go 4 it' is a really good statement, although can have some insight (yes, believe it or not). I was watching 'Rampage' one night, and I noticed (because of your statement) that it has great validity. Chris Sharma, in the video, was attempting the first ascent of a boulder problem entitled 'The Proposal'. In the middle of the climb, Chris simply got off the route.

Obe Carion - "Dude, why'd you just stop like that?"

Chris - "'Cause, I didn't know what to do."

Obe - "Well, then you shoulda just chucked then dude!"

What Obe means by well, you should have just chucked then dude is that instead of just coming off the route, when you get lost, just dyno for some kind of hold (even though at that particular moment in time you cannot see it) and see the outcome. Who knows, you may even stick the move, and end up getting a send on the route. In this case dynos can be greatly helpful.

The statement sometimes you just gotta go 4 it and then you should just chuck dude have great meaning to me, and should prove a valuable lesson to all of you.

Dynos can help you out in many ways. A lot more ways that I could ever say in this forum, but it is up to you to find the ways that they can help you, otherwise, there's no point in even trying.


aulwes


Feb 14, 2002, 9:26 PM
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Thanks guys, I have been adding alot more dynamic moves to my training...
even thought I stick them about 50% (or less, depending on the dificulty of the move) of the time. Thanks for the huge responce! Climb on!


kaptk


Feb 14, 2002, 9:42 PM
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I found that my climbing improved a lot when I started being able to just go for it and not worry about falling. I prefer to do moves staticlly, but sometimes it isn't an option. Happy climbing.


metoliusmunchkin


Feb 15, 2002, 4:54 AM
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Right On!


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