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dustinap
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Feb 6, 2002, 11:09 PM
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Hi everybody!
I'm going to be doing my first Red Rocks trip on the 20th-23rd here, and I want to know of good routes, sport or trad that are more easily accessable, and trad around 5.8 and sport around 5.10A or under.
We will be getting a guide book, but info from you guys is always great.
I've never been on a climbing trip out of CA, and this will be my first one. How do the ratings compare to other places? I have been climbing at Pinnacles lately. Their climbs are kind of weakly rated, I was practically walking up 10D/11A.
When it comes to leading outside, I'm a real wimp though.
I know Solar SLab is good, but I don't think we'll be up for 14 pitches, I guess the sunset will be early. I'm not real comfortable simul-freesoloing yet.
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addiroids
Feb 6, 2002, 11:32 PM
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Solar slab is no big deal at all. In 14 pitches, we placed like 40 pieces of gear. Sure, it's 5.6, but it's all face climbing, and if you are doing 10's on sport, you won't have ANY trouble with it. I recommend either rapping at the top of P7 (of Solar Slab not Gulley), or doing that "Alternate Rap" from the top of some other route as described in the guidebook. The rap from the top of Solar Slab kind of sucked (rap turned sideways down a narrow chimney), but we still made it down. Seriously don't worry about the length of the route. We cruised it.
Cat in the hat, Olive oil, Geronimo, are all great and all 5.6-7 and 7 pitches. Just bring head lamps, start early, and then go drink some beeeer. We also did The Black Dagger (7p 5.7), but pitch 2 was a little scary (20 off the belay before any gear on 5.7 face but it was 45 degrees F when we were on it) and you need 1 #5 Camalot (That you slide for 80' on Pitch 3-4 placing junk behind it), but if you are cool with that, I would say GO FOR IT!! It was an amazing route, and beg for pitch 3 if you can. It rivaled Open Book as far as aesthetics go for sure (but not difficulty). PM me if you are going to do that one and I can give you more beta.
Basically, get an early start, bring warm clothes and a headlamp (and raingear?), and have fun. We were also 5.8-9 leaders, and we made it work, so you can too.
Frogland is good too, but we couldn't find the correct canyon for the life of us.
As far as sport climbing goes, Are you serious?!?! There is no reason to waste your time on the generic clip ups of the first and second pullout with amazing TRAD routes are just on the other side of the loop.
BIG POINT!!!!: Stop by the visitor's center and get the # for the late exit permit. It is free, and all you have to do is call it in. DO IT!! Even if you ARE SURE you will be down in time, you never know. It is a $50 ticket at 5:00pm if you aren't out of there, no excuses. We got it a year ago. Don't you get it this time. Just call it in on the way up there or from the PAY phone at the visitor's center.
We did Cat in The Hat the day we got there. We didn't start climbing until 2pm and started the rap with head lamps. Short easy route. Just remember where the raps are when climbing up.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2002-02-06 15:37 ]
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dustinap
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Feb 6, 2002, 11:44 PM
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Thanks, I'll make sure to get that #.
Yeah, 7 pitches is no big deal, my buddy and I did a 5 pitch 5.8 in 1 1/3 hour, but I didn't lead, and I'm slow when leading.
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