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yotrepo
Sep 11, 2003, 7:44 AM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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First a little bit about me...
I've been teaching out in Japan for a couple years and am sticking around for a few months before my much-anticipated trip to Krabi, Thailand in December. I was training a lot until I hurt my shoulder about a month ago. I figured it just needed time to heal, but I can still feel it and have been reluctant to climb hard on it. Unfortunately, the injury happened about 5 days after my health insurance ran out...
Here's the deal:
I was climbing the classic 5.9+ 'Ogawayama Layback.' It is a beautiful, slightly overhanging, 25m handcrack set in a dihedral and it is probably the most famous crack in Japan. I had two solid hand jams just above my head and my feet smeared on greasy dime-edges. Apparently they were too greasy, as both feet slipped. I held on, or jammed on, as the case may be, but heard a terrible grinding sound in my right shoulder (which was the arm highest in the crack) , like when you break a chicken wing at the joint to get that last morsel of KFC. I pulled two more moves to a decent ledge, the only rest on the climb, and surveyed the damage.
I had basically full rotation in my shoulder and it only hurt when I really stretched it. I figured it was ok and pulled through the crux to finish the climb. I took aspirin regularly for a couple days and have been stretching it daily since then. It is never really painful, but I know there's something wrong. After some bouldering the other day, it was definitely was sorer than usual. I also went to the gym and really felt it when I picked up a dumbell and let it hang from my arm, a little less so when I hung from the pull-up bar.
I can't really go to the doctor b/c it's expensive w/o insurance, and they will just give me drugs (Japanese doctors get paid by how many prescriptions they write). What I really need is some good physical therapy and someone to tell me what exactly is wrong. Is it tendons that are injured? Muscle tissue? Cartilidge? I figured someone out there my have experienced a similar injury and could lend some advice...
I wanna climb!!
Domo Arigato, --Mr. Roboto
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hongkongstuey
Sep 11, 2003, 10:09 AM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
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side raises and front raises with dumb-bells - or theraband if you can get hold of some
used to have lots of problems with shoulders 'rolling' but after a short while of doing these i appear to have balanced things out enough to not notice any pain at all these days
Stu
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climbinganne
Sep 11, 2003, 11:55 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
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is there a doctor in the house willing to give this boy free advice without ever seeing his shoulder???
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mustclimb69
Sep 11, 2003, 2:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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Sounds like a rotar cuff injury. I had the same problem. Try laying on your sidewith injured arm on top. using light weights with your arm at a 90* angle rotate your shoulder by keeping your arm locked and moving your hand from infront of your chest ( abs) to pointing up, all with your arm at 90* soup cans or 5lb weights work well.
Bad news is cartlidge is very hard to heal you must build up the sourounding tissue to put less stress on your sholder. Ther are many cartlidge supplements out ther but the easiest way to obtain the correct cartlidge nutrients to prevent further injury and speed up recovery is by eating cartlidge. (nubs on wings and ribs).
Good luck and best wishes for a speedy rcovery
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yotrepo
Sep 25, 2003, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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Thank You. I tried some of these tips, and my shoulder is feeling better. Now I just need to recover from a sprained ankle...
--Injury prone Pete
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