Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


ericontherocks


Jul 21, 2001, 4:55 PM
Post #1 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2000
Posts: 105

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have not tried it yet but from reading about it and talking the Petzl reps it seems to be the ultimate belay device
Just woundering what everybody thought about it.
-Eric


climb512


Jul 25, 2001, 5:51 AM
Post #2 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2001
Posts: 468

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It sucks huge!! I thought it was great,real smooth on raps, great for going from lead to belay....then i took a fall on it about a 10 footer, nothing extreme. there is so much slop in the device when using smaller doubles, we were on 9mm and the thing crossed and jammed. it was nasty for a couple of minutes trying to get back to the wall. i had to climb enough to get some slack to the belayer,so he could un jam the thing. i havent used it since. when i was in acadia last week i talked to a climber who was using it and had the same problem, he talked to a petzl rep and was told they are intended for small diameter ropes. There advertising however is directed at using doubles and no where mentions any warning of this problem. so dont waste your 21.95 i dont feel it is safe unless you plan on using it soley with 10mm and up.


hyhuu


Jul 25, 2001, 11:37 AM
Post #3 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Had it for 2 months and it works great so far w/ my 10.5 rope. My second fell on it 4 times w/o any problems. Works just like my Gi-Gi, just have to rig it to give slack under tension.


climb512


Jul 25, 2001, 1:31 PM
Post #4 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2001
Posts: 468

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

that i believe is the difference, you are on heavier ropes, we are using 9's. it felt like it worked great until we got to the lighter ropes.


wigglestick


Aug 6, 2001, 2:54 PM
Post #5 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I really like mine. I use either 10.5 mm or 11 mm ropes so I haven't encountered any problems with yet. Although I don't think I would ever use it for the advertised purpose of having an auto-locking belay for your second by belaying directly off the anchors because once they fall they cannot be lowered because the device is locked. I bought it because I needed a new device and I always thought it would be nice to have an emergency ascender with me. The reverso is both. Very handy. When used as a traditional belay device it works just as well as an atc pyramid or other such device. Although I have noticed a smoother (less controllable?) rappel.

Matt


tyraidbp


Oct 1, 2001, 4:58 PM
Post #6 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2001
Posts: 106

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I played with the prototype they had at Phoenix this past April, and I must say I like it. But there are some things that they wont tell you, like the little problem of jamming with smaller diameter ropes. Plus the fact that if your second falls, they need to keep climbing up, because you cant lower them. They wont tell you that stuff, but I think all in all it is a pretty cool device. But if you are planning to just use it for regular belay(single pitch)and rappel, then there is really no need to carry such a big peice of metal around with you. Stick to either an ATC or the Variable Controller(I like the Variable more)


dean585


Oct 4, 2001, 4:31 PM
Post #7 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2001
Posts: 78

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It sucks when you take a fall, DO NOT use it to belay anybody that you know is heavy nd might fall following you up the rock,they are pretty much on their own getting back on the rock and forget about hauling up anybody. But thats just my experience with it


woodse


Oct 4, 2001, 4:38 PM
Post #8 of 8 (2060 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2001
Posts: 625

anybody tried the petzl reverso belay device? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I purchased the Reverso in August and have only great things to say about it. Works well for everything. It cost me about $3 more than a BD ATC and is way better. I have taken big falls, rappeled, belayed top and bottom and it works for all of it. I think that you'll be seeing more and more as they become available. If you're in the market for a new device, this is it!!


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$174.56 (10% off)
$77.36 (10% off)
$8.55 (10% off)
$128.22 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook