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What to do with outgrown ATC?
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aulwes


Feb 9, 2002, 7:50 PM
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What to do with outgrown ATC?
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Give to a friend if it is in good condition. (as long as it has been damaged in some way). Your you could hang on to it, it may come in handy sometime.


maculated


Feb 9, 2002, 6:08 PM
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So I bought a BRD from Metolious (I think, could be wrong) that's made specifically for beginners when I first started out, but now that I'm using it for rapelling and feeding lead climbers, it's really catching the rope too much. I try to be as efficient as possible with my gear so I'm bummed to waste my money. But, I gotta get a new ATC - what should I do with the old one?


daisuke


Feb 9, 2002, 8:09 PM
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keep it! you can always use a backup belay device and you should always have one for when you're rapelling, I need to buy a figure 8 just for this use.


goopermc


Feb 10, 2002, 9:32 AM
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Give it to me


wigglestick


Feb 10, 2002, 9:53 AM
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Keep it. You never know when you might need an extra because your partner forgot theirs or you forgot yours. There is nothing wrong with accumulating small collection of belay devices and other gear. My collection consists of a figure 8, lowe tuber, atc, grigri, and reverso. Another gearhead is born!


agrauch


Feb 11, 2002, 11:05 AM
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A Lowe tuber. Fantastic.

I've always liked these devices and was very sad when I had to replace my old ones with ATC's and Pyramids.

Anyway, you should keep your old device. Backups are your best friend. If you don't have a backup, how are you going to do the next rappel after you drop your brand new ATC down the side of the cliff?


atg200


Feb 11, 2002, 1:01 PM
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uh agrauch - do a carabiner brake rappel. who on earth carries two belay devices with them on a route?

i'd keep it - i use my extras a loaners when i teach people to climb.


agrauch


Feb 11, 2002, 2:47 PM
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I carry two belay devices with me on practically every route. I have an old ATC that lives on my harness along with my prusiks and rap rings. I usually don't even notice the extra 3oz.

It has been a life saver when climbing with beginners, and some very experienced climbers, who have either dropped or forgotten their belay devices.



[ This Message was edited by: agrauch on 2002-02-11 15:01 ]


atg200


Feb 11, 2002, 3:22 PM
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hmm, good stuff for beginners, but experienced climbers should be able to do a carabiner brake rappel and belay with a munter hitch.


dustinap
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Feb 11, 2002, 4:16 PM
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How the heck do you drop your ATC?

NEVER remove it from your carabiner, and you're fine. Always keep the "keeper" on the carabiner, when you feed the rope into it, put it thru the atc, then push the rope against the gate to get the rope in the gate.
When you remove the rope, pull it out using the same method with the keeper stopping the tuber from comming off the biner.


agrauch


Feb 11, 2002, 4:41 PM
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True, experienced climbers should know how to belay and rappel with a Munter hitch as well as how to descend with a carabiner break. Experienced climbers should also be able to escape a belay and rescue an injured partner. Most beginners should learn alternate methods of belay and rappel before venturing onto multi-pitch routes.

There are circumstances under which I would not want to set up a carabiner break. Like rapping frozen ropes in the dark, during a snow storm while wearing heavy gloves, after climbing for 20 hours. It's hard enough to safely use a rappel device in those conditions.



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