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Stoned Oven/Air Voyage...Black Canyon beta
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jcinco


Sep 26, 2003, 11:43 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395

Stoned Oven/Air Voyage...Black Canyon beta  (North_America: United_States: Colorado: Western_Slope: Black_Canyon_National_Park)
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I'm heading to the Black Canyon in two weeks and I'd like to get in one more big climb before the cold, short days of winter set in. I've been eyeing Stoned Oven or Air Voyage on North Chasm View Wall, and I'd love to find some beta on these climbs.

They are both grade V's and face due south (meaning they roast in the summer). Stoned Oven has about six consecutive 5.11 pitches in the middle of the climb making me think this might be a better route for the longer days of spring. Air Voyage, on the other hand is mostly 5.8-5.10 with one 5.11 pitch... only problem is that there's also a pitch of 12a OW. The less sustained nature of Air Voyage makes me think this one's more likely to go in a early-mid October day.

So does anyone have any beta on either of these climbs? It would be especially helpful if someone has done both routes and can relate which is the bigger undertaking for this time of year.

Stoned Oven: how does it compare in sustained difficulty to Astroman or Monkeyfinger? How is the route finding? Are there bad runouts on the hard pitches?

Air Voyage: can the 12a OW be easily aided, and if so what big gear would be best? Do the 5.8-5.10 pitches go pretty quickly, or does the route-finding slow you way down?

Thanks in advance,

-Joe


jcinco


Sep 29, 2003, 12:01 PM
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Re: Stoned Oven/Air Voyage...Black Canyon beta [In reply to]
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Bump

Thought I'd try again...


takeme


Sep 29, 2003, 12:04 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2003
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Re: Stoned Oven/Air Voyage...Black Canyon beta [In reply to]
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Joe,

I sent you a "private message" earlier today with some beta about Air Voyage--check it out. If you're not getting it for some reason, let me know and I'll try again.


Charles


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