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fiend
Feb 1, 2002, 12:06 AM
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Due to the weather and the fact that I don't feel like walking through it for 20 min, I won't be there either
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c_plante
Feb 1, 2002, 4:58 AM
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Don't you wish that we had a tunnel system that connected all the climbing gyms in north america to each other, and there would be like maglev trains and shiite... Yeah that'd be cool. Or I could just build my own home wall for a billionth of the cost.
I want a home wall
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xen_monkey
Feb 9, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Hey CP before you can have a home wall you need a home, you gotta get off the street man
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c_plante
Feb 9, 2002, 7:19 AM
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What is it with you guys? First its lay off the gin, then it's stop flirting with my girlfriends, now its get off the streets.
I can't please anyone!
Christian
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downshift
Feb 9, 2002, 8:14 PM
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Just to pull this topic back into focus. (C_P we understand your problems are real we can get you help and I think I can get you a big appliance box ) Is there anyone climbing in the University Gyms?
I know that Waterloo and Guelph both have small gyms built. Is there one at Mac or elsewhere?
Another question. How come when I do a search on Rock climbing on www.yellowpages.ca how come Ontario Centre For Martial Arts (461 North Service W, Oakville) comes up? Do these guy have a small wall or something?
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c_plante
Feb 11, 2002, 6:57 AM
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A big appliance box? For me?
I found a list of 14 rock climbing gyms on www.canada411.com
Some of them are far out there like the Barrie and Ajax gyms..
But a road trip is a road trip
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fiend
Feb 11, 2002, 7:56 AM
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Mac was going to build a climbing wall and it went up for a little while before it was ... err .. dissuaded from continuing ... by one of the other Hamilton Gyms
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c_plante
Feb 11, 2002, 8:37 PM
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QUOTE:
Mac was going to build a climbing wall and it went up for a little while before it was ... err .. dissuaded from continuing ... by one of the other Hamilton Gyms
_____________________________________________
Why doesn't that surprise me? Mac has always been populated by flyweights and pushovers. If the world boxing league ever opened up a bitch weight class they'd recruit from mac.
Christian
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lofty
Feb 15, 2002, 9:15 PM
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Don't forget about the gym in Windsor called Gibraltar. We Have over 20 rope stations including 7 that are leadable. Routes very from 5.6 to 5.12+. 2 bouldering caves and a new 65ft overhang. Anyone passin through windsor should drop in. (519)966-ROCK
3901 Huron Church Road. Just before the bridge.
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c_plante
Feb 24, 2002, 12:30 AM
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I climbed at Joe Rockheads this weekend and I have a few things that I want to say. First off let me say that I told my two climbing partners my opinions of Joe Rockheads at Jarek disagreed with almost everything I said and Downshift agreed with almost everything I said, so that being said, here goes.
1) Anchorage: Gravity uses a 2 anchor system, the first one at the edge of the wall, the second one a few feet back from the wall, so that when you get to the top of the wall youre not fighting the rope. At Joe Rockheads its a 1 anchor system, and as you get closer to the top that rope starts to chaff and it gets harder and harder to complete. I belayed a beginning climber, and she was doing fine until that rope started to dig into her back and she started to struggle from there. My point is that 1 anchor is evil.
2) Belay: I watched a new climber belay someone, and the instructor was standing right beside. The climber was done and the belayer took the rope, wrapped it around the gri gri, and then started to belay. In order to do this she had to do a whole lot of wrapping and pulling and it was all a big mess. This to me seemed dangerous. I then watched lead belayers to the same thing. Does this bother anyone else?
3) Safety: Several times I watched someone walk between the wall and me. Had my climber took an unscheduled fall and I had to catch him, I might swing toward the wall. All fine, except had that person been there at that exact moment I would have hit him/her. I watched this happen more then once, and it wasnt all new climbers either, several lead climbers were doing it too.
4) Community: The feeling of the gym was unwelcoming. While at Gravity I like giving and receiving beta and advice from other climbers. More experienced climbers are usually more than happy to share their thoughts with other climbers, whereas at Joe Rockheads there seemed to be a different attitude. I cant quite pin it down, but when I talked to someone about their hooligan kids I got cold stares from some of the regulars. I asked some people who were loitering around a climb if they were going to climb the route, rather than answer me the one guy snatched the rope and then said Yeah I am., and while I have certainly done the same thing, this guy did it in such an odd manner, that Im not certain if it was rude, or obstinate or what. Theres just a really weird feeling around the gym. If anyone has any opinions about this particular point Id like to hear it.
Well I guess thats it, does anyone think Im off base?
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xen_monkey
Feb 24, 2002, 8:10 PM
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CP, it seems all of your concerns (except for the first) are "soft " Concerns. Sure the people may not be as friendly, as their belaying custums may be foreign. Other that the fact that the two chains rope the are both against the wall instead of a seperate (which I admit can be a bitch if come off the wall close to the top) you haven't comented on what really matters. The hard qualities of the gym. Variety of climbs, difficulty, etc. I found their routes this time out to be much better then in the past (I' haven't been their in about 1 month and a half). Good variety, some really intersting moves. Like on the one that goes around the arete (SP?). I just wish I could have stayed longer, I would have but I was afraid of puking.
Sure the atmosphere of a gym does make a difference to the overall enjoyment, but you are there to climb so the proof is on the wall, everything else is just gravy. Sorry about mixxing food analogies.
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downshift
Feb 24, 2002, 11:08 PM
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c_p, xen,
I find every gym has it own little subculture to it. Sure we're all climbers but each gym has it little differences in atmosphere that attract different climbers. The Rockhead’s culture just seems to be noticeable different than the other gyms I've been to. It maybe a Toronto compared to the rest of Ontario thing. Maybe everyone bitter about having to pay to park. Or maybe it’s a more competitive gym. I don't know, can't seem to put my finger on it. Now I must agree Rockhead's top rope setup is a pain, more often then not it can put a damper on a climb.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-02-24 15:27 ]
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c_plante
Feb 25, 2002, 6:33 AM
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Xen_Monkey: I still don't like the route settings, I think that they have inconsistent ratings. The lead area was a chaotic mess with climbers leaving their gear everywhere. While I was belaying Downshift on the wall another climber was belaying right behind me, he was standing so far back from the wall that he was blocking two climbers from using a route. He told them to wait for him to finish up. But I guess that's not gravy eh?
Downshift: I totally agree with you on the culture thing, it's so weird. Maybe it is a Toronto thing. Although I suspect that it might be a mixture of ultra-competitiveness and Toronto atmosphere... I could be wrong. Any Rockheads diehards here?
Christian
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xen_monkey
Feb 25, 2002, 8:01 PM
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C_p, the routes are rated a little lighter than you're probobly used to. A Rockheads 5.10+/- is about on par with some of the harder 10.9's at gravity. I find the variety at that level pretty good at rockheads. Plus I find though they may be a little easy on their .10 climbs the change in difficulty and rating of the climbs is fairly even. Unlike at gravity where the difference between a 5.9 and and a 5.10- is a little crazy. The strength and technique difference required for the two are, in my opinion, dispreportionate to the grades. Though they're usually all bitchin' climbs.
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krillen
Feb 25, 2002, 9:32 PM
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XENM: I have to disagree on that. When I first went to Rockhead's it was graded softer than Gravity. It's not as bad now mind you. I find the grading at Gravity to be quite consistant though. When the route are set they are left blank for approx 2 weeks to get a general consesus from the members, THEN it's graded. I know of Several attempted 11-'s that got graded as 10+'s, or 9's that got graded 10's because of this. It's a nice feature. It keeps one person's biasd's (sp?) from influencing it.
Now don't get me wrong, I love trippign ot Rockhead's but for some people atmosphere is a lot. you can't climb your best if you don't feel at your best.
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c_plante
Feb 26, 2002, 8:54 AM
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Now don't get me wrong, I love trippign ot Rockhead's but for some people atmosphere is a lot. you can't climb your best if you don't feel at your best.
I'll have to agree with you on this one. I just didn't feel right that time at Rockheads. My first time there I loved it because it was me and 2 others... This time it was packed and it just felt "off". When Gravity is packed it just has a different feel to it.
Christian
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leevivlee
Mar 13, 2002, 6:06 AM
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Here's my two cents on three gyms in the downtown T.O. area
Joe Rockheads
http://www.joerockheads.com
NOTE TO ALL: The Rockhead's place in Markham closed down not too long ago, so now the only place to go is the location on Fraser. (I heard it was a **bleep** to find anyway) If you can't take the 'kids-on-candy-and-birthday-cake scene, I suggest you stay away from here on weekends. Opt for weekdays at night
- merits include: lots of space in between climbs...clear demarcation tape/lines to identify one climb's hold from another's
- They have an amazing lead wall. By far the best one of all three gyms. I love just sitting back and admiring people spiderman their way up the walls. I swear, some people look like they were monkeys in a past-life or something.
- For some reason I get the impression that the people at Rockhead's are a bit more 'edgy' Not in the bad sense, per se, but in the -hip- and -trendy- sense
- Sometimes they play acid jazz here. Acid jazz is great for climbing...it's kind of mesmerizing...puts you in a good climbing trance. (try the "thievery corporation" for great tunes)
- I've never had a problem w/the temperature here.
- Staff has always been pretty professional. Some are really friendly and helpful.
- ONLY prob with the anchoring-to-harness system is that if you are a smaller person...there's always that potential getting launched into space if you're with a substantially heavier climber
- nonetheless, if you are climbing w/someone around your weight range, the system is great b/c it allows for you to give them extra boosts when necessary
- I think they changed their wall-rating system lately. It seems like everything got a smidgen harder
-Sometimes I got the feeling that people gave cold looks at the gym. Some of the people who go are just focused on doing their thing. Less conducive place for small talk and friendly conversation although people will share tips if asked. For some reason people find others less approachable here. Don't ask me, maybe it is the feng shui of the place!!!
-Seems like the place spends a lot of time on making the place operate professionally...good emphasis on safety and from what I've seen, their intro courses are more comprehensive
-a great focus on footwork (pivoting the foot, etc)
Toronto Climbing Academy
http://www.climbingacademy.com
Location at Queen and Broadview
When I went the place was really short staffed. Other than that the people here seem pretty friendly...the demographics seems a bit different here for some reason.
-People are really friendly. Easy environment to chat others up. If you're going solo it is quite easy to find a buddy to work with.
- In terms of types of climbs, there seems to be a lot of variety here. HOWEVER the level of difficulty is not really broad. They all seem about the same.
- There is a sectioned off area for weight lifting and grip endurance training. There were many people taking advantage of this part of the gym
-fantastic bouldering
- There is one area that reminds me of a bat cave...it slopes down quite sharply and the routes are all designated with coloured electrical tape. Great for practicing heavy inclines. Has a great HUGE blue cushy safety mat for that *extra* assurance
- I've heard of a few stories about accidents here. Not due to the facility or staff...I think just general negligence and ignorant climbers. Since then I think they've kicked the safety up a notch, er at least I hope so!
- Storing gear was a bit iffy here. Most lockers are occupied by people who rent them out for the long haul so the locker-room is a bit of a zoo
- People were really great here. Giving each other tips and feedback...often unsolicited but quite welcome if you ask me.
Rock Oasis
Location at Bathurst and Front
http://www.rockoasis.com
I found a few different things interesting about Oasis.
- Climate control (what control?! I felt cold and clammy...sometimes my hands got numb because of the cold holds. Then again, I have low bld pressure, so I might be a little more sensitive to cold atmos.)
- The routes require a lot of hip action. at 5' I'm quite petite so I found myself doing a LOT of -turning-hip-into-wall action...but this turned out to be a good thing as I need to work on that aspect of my climbing
- I love the 60 feet climbs. Great measure of endurance! Not recommended for acrophobics out there!
- I don't like how the belaying system works - the system is designed so that people have to sit on the benches to belay (anchored to ground) If someone fell...ouch. Seems like there isn't a lot of room between each climb...which brings me to my next point -->
- CRAMPED. This place, when crowded, can be really frustrating. Waiting in line for a climb might take a while (esp considering they are 60' walls!) They don't allow for much space in between ropes, so it can potentially make someone feel clausterphobic (sp?) The area feels a wee uncomfortably enclosed.
- The types of climbs. Primarily beginner (around 5.5)...then it jumps to high 5.10s I wish there were more 'intermediate' level climbs
- Has a small workout and stretch area
- The walls were excruciatingly grating, esp when I missed a hold. **ouch** For some reason the texture of the walls is a bit on the abrasive side
[ This Message was edited by: leevivlee on 2002-03-12 22:08 ]
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c_plante
Mar 13, 2002, 8:02 AM
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leevivlee:
It looks like you've hit on the exact problem that I have with Joe Blockheads. I wish I knew what it was, do you have any thoughts? Welcome to the board btw!
Christian
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downshift
Mar 13, 2002, 12:06 PM
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leevivlee
I know how you feel about Oasis's climate control. I went over the summer on one of those hot sticky rain for ten minutes, sunny, rain for twenty mintues days. The temperature in the gym was about 10 degree above the outside on the 60 footer I almost puked from the heat. Drank lots of un-healthy Toronto water that day. As for it being cramped they don't really use their space very well, they need a space planner or something. If you want to see an efficient use of small space check out the Guelph Grotto. So you’re a Toronto climber ever checked out anything in the sticks (Grotto, Gravity, Higher Ground etc.) ?
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-03-13 07:37 ]
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spiderx
Mar 13, 2002, 8:31 PM
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Oasis is one of the best gyms I have ever been to. I don’t know why everyone is so hung up on comfort. The way I see it, if you want to climb rocks then you better get use to feeling uncomfortable. ‘It’s to hot’ or ‘It’s to cold’ or ‘the holds are dirty’ well for all you whiney people out there, get use to it. Don’t bitch about it, use it to your advantage. If you can climb something under the most uncomfortable situations, (in a gym) than you are one step closer to being a better climber outdoors. To quote an old movie” Life is pain, whoever tells you different is trying to sell you something.”
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jebroa
Mar 13, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Been there only twice, but Toronto Climbing Academy routes seem to be easy for the grade (from 5.8 to 10+/11-). What do you think?
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c_plante
Mar 13, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Dear Spiderx,
In my years of climbing (8 in a cave, 1 on the rocks) I have never felt truly uncomfortable. If anything I'll feel mildly annoyed, mostly because I hate getting stun by bees, or grabbing a big handfull of moss, or whatever. When I go indoors, I do so with the assumption that I won't be stun by bees, or that the holds will be covered in moss, or worse yet, prove to be some critters home. I think that everyone can agree to that statement, indoors should be free of the constraints and shortcomings of outdoors, right? So while we're on the topic of comfort, why not have a comfortable indoor gym? I've never been to Rock Oasis yet I've seen pictures and I've often wondered about the validity of having an anchor directly under a bench, so while I cannot address your statements directly, I can say that you're full of shit. Rock climbing (at least for me) has never been about pain, suffering or discomfort. It's been about a social experience, hanging out with my friends, trying out new things, challenging myself to try new things. If it hurt me (barring the usual muscle strain) then I wouldn't do it, and I seriously question what kind of climbing that you're up to if it hurts you so. Do you need a hug?
Christian
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downshift
Mar 14, 2002, 12:59 AM
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When I climb outdoors I've climbing in rain, heat, bugs, mud and none of this really bothers me. Being "comfortable" usually doesn’t cross my mind... In fact I do enjoy it ! But, I think asking for a comfortable gym isn't too much to ask for. All gyms have their shortcomings (poor climate control, cramped, whatever) and some people will hate a gym you love. That's life I guess.
[ This Message was edited by: downshift on 2002-03-13 17:07 ]
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xen_monkey
Mar 14, 2002, 1:23 AM
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Christian, man you gotta learn to relax. To some extent I have to agree with spiderx. train in the worst condition that way when your performing at peak levels you'll perform better. I know people that used to train drunk or with the flue so that when they were well or sober they performed better. Though I don't recomend climbing drunk (this person was training for less lethal sport) the training while sick has some merrit. If you can nail that 5.11 at deaths door image how you'll perform when your running 100%.
BAck to the other gym realted posts. Leevivlee had one of the most complete and in depth post I've seen in a while on this thread. I think the kids on sugar issues is problem with most gyms on a saterday. You usually don't notice irt a Gravity as much because of all the open space, and they're pretty much following their belayer/handlers around the gym.
I do have to agree with leevivlee's coments on Rockheads, there rating system has gotten better over the last little bit. TCA I found to be a little dark and when I was there was wasn't a large amount of mid dificulty climbs (but I've only been there once last summer so what do I know). The big problem I have with Oasis' climbs is that I find them to be a little strength intensive but once agin that could be my fualt, I tend to go there when I'm out of practice so I'm probobly relying more on strength than technique.
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xen_monkey
Mar 14, 2002, 1:26 AM
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Maybe this should be its own thread, but what feature do you guys think would make the ideal climbing gym. A few freinds and I have been talking about starting a gym, but its going to have to wait until we can build up some capitol and pay off some of those student loans
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