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Beginner vs intermediate vs advanced
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xen_monkey


Feb 11, 2002, 12:30 PM
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Beginner vs intermediate vs advanced
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I know this topic may be a pedantic. But here it goes. A freind of mine started a discussion between myself and a few other climbers. This discussion has evelved into a heated debte.
What ratings of climbs would be considered beginner, intetmediate, advanced. I know its all relative but I'd like to develope a general opinion and maybe put this to rest.


Partner pianomahnn


Feb 11, 2002, 1:04 PM
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Advanced - anything harder than what you currently climb

Intermediate - anything that you climb

Beginners - anything you could do with your eyes shut and hands tied behine your back

I dont know...sounds allright to me.


Partner polarwid


Feb 11, 2002, 1:11 PM
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I would say beginner is what a first time climber could get up with out falling.

Intermediate could probably be climbed by you average weekend climber.

Advanced would cause your average weekend climber to fall or not get up at all, usually requiring some special techniques.

SOOOOOO...

5.0 - 5.6/7 would be a beginner route.
5.7 - 5.10a/b intermediate type
5.10- 5.15 advanced to impossible

Hope this helps a little...

Also this is coming from a TRAD point of view, the grades for sport skew up at least one full grade if not two.


[ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2002-02-11 14:52 ]


iclimb512s


Feb 11, 2002, 1:13 PM
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ok, here is what "I" Think are appropriate ratings for begginer inter. and advanced.

Begginer: 5.0 to 5.7+
These ratings require basic moves and less strength.

Intermediate: 5.8- to 5.11
these routes require more strength and harder moves. intermediate techniques are used in these routes. however, there is a big difference between 5.8 and 5.11 a 5.11 climber is to most people "advanced" I climb 5.11s and dont consider myself to be and "advanced climber. Maybe close, But not quite the the advanced level

Advanced: 5.12 to 5.13
these routes are really freakin hard and stump most people. sick moves and sick holds are on these routes. advanced footwork and technique are involved

Elite: hard as hellll (5.13 and up)
this is where people know who you are and everyone wants to hang around you at comps.
most people dont even make it this far. AS I SAID BEFORE, THE ROUTES ELITE CLIMBERS CLIMB ARE HARD AS HELLLL!

So, heres what i think, not that it matters but hey, I tried right?! let me know what you think
Climb on
Grant


iclimb512s


Feb 11, 2002, 1:13 PM
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ok, here is what "I" Think are appropriate ratings for begginer inter. and advanced.

Begginer: 5.0 to 5.7+
These ratings require basic moves and less strength.

Intermediate: 5.8- to 5.11
these routes require more strength and harder moves. intermediate techniques are used in these routes. however, there is a big difference between 5.8 and 5.11 a 5.11 climber is to most people "advanced" I climb 5.11s and dont consider myself to be and "advanced climber. Maybe close, But not quite the the advanced level

Advanced: 5.12 to 5.13
these routes are really freakin hard and stump most people. sick moves and sick holds are on these routes. advanced footwork and technique are involved

Elite: hard as hellll (5.13 and up)
this is where people know who you are and everyone wants to hang around you at comps.
most people dont even make it this far. AS I SAID BEFORE, THE ROUTES ELITE CLIMBERS CLIMB ARE HARD AS HELLLL!

So, heres what i think, not that it matters but hey, I tried right?! let me know what you think
Climb on
Grant


jarek


Feb 11, 2002, 1:40 PM
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Pianomahnn, That is the best Grade description I have ever seen. Bravo.

jarek


atg200


Feb 11, 2002, 2:37 PM
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hmm. totally depends where and what you are doing.

beginner: 5.5 and under trad, 5.8 and under sport

intermediate: 5.9 and under trad, 5.11 and under sport, A2 and under aid, WI4 and under ice

advanced: everything else


c_plante


Feb 11, 2002, 3:02 PM
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What about the differences between trad, big wall, sport, ice...

Is there a universal climbing rating?

Is a beginner always going to be 5.5-5.7 for instance, regardless of the type of climbing?

The world wide climbing community can't even agree on rating climbs, or bouldering, or anything really. How can everyone agree with what a beginner is?

Although I think we can all agree what elite is.

Christian


jt512


Feb 11, 2002, 4:48 PM
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Many guidebooks provide definitions of "beginning", "intermediate", and "advanced" climbing. These are continually adjusted as climbing standards improve. For me, this has meant that I have been one letter grade short of being an "advanced" climber for at least 10 years, regardless of how much I have improved.

-Jay, who redpoints 5.12a, the hardest "intermediate" grade, according to the new Las Vegas Limestone guidebook *sigh*


daggerx


Feb 11, 2002, 6:34 PM
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I have to agree with Pian.... Unless you a beginner then wait a grade or two then use what he/she said.


Partner iclimbtoo


Feb 11, 2002, 6:55 PM
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Yeah, Pianomahn speaks the truth. If you're climbing 5.12s and think you're an advanced climber...then guess what, think again. you can always push yourself further, so i guess, in a way, there's no advanced. There's some f*ucking good climbers, but the one's climbing 14.d's are still pushing themselves because to them, it's intermediate. Look at Sharma's "Realization".


xen_monkey


Feb 12, 2002, 6:17 AM
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Well CP if you use pianomans rating system then everyone can agree on what a beginner is, and no one can call themself an advanced climber. If you need external validation it gives you something to push for, though you'll never reach it.


Partner pianomahnn


Feb 12, 2002, 6:42 AM
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Thanks for those who appreciate my system.

I do understand some flaws in it, say, with the TOP climbers in the world, no one is better, BUT, there are harder routes out there, so there are more advanced climbs, etc.

Oh well, nothing is perfect.


leadingedge


Feb 13, 2002, 5:44 AM
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beginner = 5A to 6B
Intermediate = 6C to 8A
Advanced = 8A onwards


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