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El Potrero routes 5.9 and under
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Partner chugach001


Oct 7, 2003, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
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El Potrero routes 5.9 and under  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n: El_Potrero_Chico)
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I'm interested in visiting El Potrero this winter but my leading tops out around 5.9. The place seems pretty high end, is there enough long routes for an experinced but mediocre climber to enjoy a week?

Any tips on finding partners?
Thx,
Jeff


highlander


Oct 7, 2003, 9:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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Its pretty much all sport climbing on limestone. The ratings are inflated and there are lots of bolts.


lilcapntravis


Oct 7, 2003, 9:22 PM
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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i was just down there 2 weeks ago. you'll find something to suit your fancy. send me a PM if you need more info.


clymber


Oct 7, 2003, 9:29 PM
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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as far as i know theres not to many trad routes down there and the ones that are arent the safest....if you do go theres bring a helmet wether you aredoing trad or sport...tons of loose stuffand lots of rock fall...all in all the time i spent there was blast


munckee


Mar 1, 2004, 6:32 AM
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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I'm interested in this as well. I'm in the same exact boat, thinking about heading out there mid to late march for a few days.


roc-dude
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Mar 1, 2004, 4:09 PM
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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Go!! It is great. There are plenty of long routes a strong 5.9 climber can do. As a general rule most routes are a little softly rated. I don't consider myself a 5.10 climber (many of the place I climb are old school) but I have spent a week there and never backdown from a pitch. Ask around about the routes you plan on doing, people will share good bata with you. Get the new guide book from Tami or Magic Ed, they sale the updated one. Go to Homero's and ask for them someone will be able to help you. When you get there try "las Chimuelas" (5.8, 5.9). It is good place to get your feet wet. Then move one route over to "Jungle boy" (5.9, 5.8 ) the first pitch roof is as tough as most 5.10's I have done there. The hands are all there it is just scary. Then move one route over to Yankee Clipper. The first five or six pitches are pretty easy with several 5.10's. There are several tougher pitches after the large ledge where you have to hike several houndereds of feet to the rest of the climbs. Once you feel good on the rock do "Las Estrellas" it is 11 or 12 pitches with several 5.10's. Many pitchs can be combined with a 60 meter rope. And a must before you leave is The Spires, Do "Aguja Celo Rey". (5.9, 5.9+) this is what the old books rates it. I would rate the first pitch 5.10b and run out and the second pitch 5.9-. This is one of the best routes I have every done. The exposure is super.. go and have fun..


Partner camhead


Mar 1, 2004, 5:23 PM
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Re: El Potrero routes 5.9 and under [In reply to]
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There are plenty of 5.8 and 5.9 single pitch routes on the lower end of the Mini Super Wall. After you get solid on those, check out the multipitches that roc-dude metioned. Many Potrero routes have a 5.10 rating only because of a few moves, with lots of easier rock in between them. Just go, get the guidebook, and ask around; you won't be disappointed.


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