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southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!!!
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Partner one900johnnyk


Oct 11, 2003, 9:52 AM
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southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!!!
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http://www.shullphoto.com/SErock.htm

http://www.seclimbers.org/...ernRockBookPromo.jpg

i don't know how to post pics so this may take a while


Partner tim


Oct 11, 2003, 10:25 AM
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Re: southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!! [In reply to]
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that is 'The Womb', a 5.11b on the North Face of Looking Glass.

Adam climbed the 2nd pitch of it, and I actually emailed Harrison when I first saw this picture to find out where it was. I'm planning on hitting it next weekend.


scclimber


Oct 11, 2003, 12:56 PM
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Re: southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!! [In reply to]
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i thought that looked familiar. i climbed the second pitch with adam. since i can't follow .11's we decided to rap from the second belay. looks like a great finger crack though.


cragmasterp


Oct 11, 2003, 2:09 PM
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Re: southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!! [In reply to]
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Next time climb on thru. the section shown in the photo is the sweet 5.9 dihedral that only has one short 5.11 section right off of the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (the infamous squeeze chimney "womb" move). there is usually a fixed sling hanging in the chimney and many climbers -myself included- do a little A0 here to get to the 5.9 cookies above.

you should definately go to your favorite shop and check out this awesome volume of SE climbing photos by asheville's own Harrison Shull.
states included by chapters: Arkansas, Georgia, Alabama, Tenn., Kentuck, NC, SC, VA, & WV. Featuring real climbers on some of the nicest stone in the states.


Partner tim


Oct 11, 2003, 3:02 PM
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Re: southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!! [In reply to]
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Next time climb on thru. the section shown in the photo is the sweet 5.9 dihedral that only has one short 5.11 section right off of the belay at the top of the 2nd pitch (the infamous squeeze chimney "womb" move). there is usually a fixed sling hanging in the chimney and many climbers -myself included- do a little A0 here to get to the 5.9 cookies above.

Yeah, I was about to say '...and I am bringing my BigBros to do it...' ;-)

I have no intention of freeing a 5.11 squeeze chimney move. Although if history is any guide, I might be goaded into trying, and may pull it off. I'm just not counting on that being the case.

See, this is where Adam's disdain for aid hurts him ;-)


scclimber


Oct 11, 2003, 4:46 PM
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Re: southeastern climbers: here's a picture, where is it??!! [In reply to]
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i will definatly have to try that next time i'm there. we thought that the .11 was in the dihedral. can you get any pro in before the squeeze to prevent a factor 2? there are three bolts at the belay but that fall would be rough on a rope.


ncclimber


Oct 12, 2003, 7:23 PM
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Good luck pulling that move most of the locals that have pulled it usually have to work at it for quite a while. It's one of those things your hear around the crag "Dude I finally Pulled thge womb move" I hear its height dependant Don't remember which is helpful(sjhort or tall).
but Aid through it because I here the crack is above it is worth it.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 13, 2003, 3:28 AM
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I was down for P3, but the two I had with me weren't... May get another chance this coming Thursday. :D


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