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Josh & Sally's West Coast Road Trip Diary
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jsj42


Oct 16, 2003, 1:46 PM
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Josh & Sally's West Coast Road Trip Diary
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Thursday, Oct 16.

Josh here.

Today is a rest day and, amazingly there is an internet connection in the town of Joshua Tree.

Being that this is the first entry, here's a little background info:

Since getting laid off a few weeks ago, I decided to take the opportunity to do, well, what I had been doing before I got laid off - climb. Only the extra freedom has afforded me time to travel. I've hit many of the climbs that I'd been putting off in the Boulder area, as well as getting up to Devil's Tower for several days (with Jeff - cologman - and Sally), also, I had a chance for a great whirlwind tour of the NRG and the Gunks. But, the highlight in my mind had been coming out west to hit some of the climbs I've been dying to get on (see http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26803&start=15).

Fortunately, I also found a (relatively) competent partner for the trip - Sally (scallywag). Unfortunately she doesn't speak English, but she can belay so it's all good.

Sally and I met up on Monday and camped with some of her friends-in-tow, Sara and Heidi. I was exhausted from the marathon drive from Boulder but that J Tree rock was so fine and Sally was itching to climb.

Double Cross (7+)
Right Ski Track (10b)

We watched the sunset from Cyclops Rock with about a dozen other climbers.

Darn, we are getting booted off the computers so I'll make this short and fill in the blanks later.

OK, I'm back. Here's a little more info. On Tuesday we went to the Wonderland of Rocks and climbed the famous Figures on a Landscape (10b). It truly deserves it's reputation as being completely awesome.

Unknown Soldier (11b)

Wednesday - Wonderland of Rocks.

I Can't Believe it's a Girdle (10a R)
Solid Gold (10a)
Room to Shroom (9)

(Will edit later for content).



I would have liked to post sooner, but this is the first opportunity I've had.


scallywag


Oct 16, 2003, 2:11 PM
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Re: Josh & Sally's West Coast Road Trip Diary [In reply to]
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First of all, yes english is my second language - i much prefer my australian dialect any day thankyou very much! :P

and we are in Yucca City - not Joshua Tree!

You wanna make fun of me? i will obliterate you!!! :twisted:
hahaha!

relatively competent??? HA! who taught who how to tie a slip knot yesterday?

once again, :P

So anyway, following suite, background info...

I have been climbing on and off for the past 2 1/2 years, i got into it very much so at the beginning of this year when i found some great partners and started going out every week.
Since having discovered my real passion for climbing, and getting the travel bug big time, i decided to combine the two together and take a year off to travel the world and climb at some of the best places in North America.
So far i have been to:
Castle Rock, CA
Mt Diablo, CA
Rumney, NH
Seneca, WV
Nelson Rocks, WV
Abbingdon, NC
Taylors Falls, MN and WI
Eldorado Canyon, CO
Boulder Canyon, CO
Flatirons, CO
Devils Tower, WY
Joshua Tree, CA
I have definitely bypassed a few of the best, but it makes it fun as now i have to go back! :)

I am five months into my trip.

Josh contacted me through RC.com and informed me that he wanted to travel, we met up and climbed in CO and Devils Tower, then planned this trip. We will see if we make it through without getting sick of one another!

Joshua Tree is the first stop.

Figures on a Landscape is the best climb that i have ever done! wow! fantastic all the way!

It has been great climbing with someone that climbs harder than me, as i am pushing my climbing limits more so than normal - I lead my first ever 5.9 trad yesterday and am stoked! :D - Room to Shroom.

I could also add the third pitch of I CANT BELIEVE ITS A GIRDLE at 5.9 also, but it was all bolted, so not so much a trad climb (except for the fear factor!!! the scariest bit was seconding the last pitch where a fall would have seen me make my mark on the opposiite wall! - literally!)

And that is all i have to say right now - except that the climbing here is AWESOME!

but as i am now also getting kicked off the computer, i am now going to have a shower! ooooh the anticipation!


Partner polarwid


Oct 16, 2003, 3:09 PM
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polarwid moved this thread from General to Trip Reports.


jsj42


Oct 18, 2003, 1:15 PM
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OK... we're back online again - this time from the Lake Havasu City public library. Apparently Havasu Falls (a hike we wanted to do) is not actually here but is near the Grand Canyon. Hmmm....

Anyway, we left Joshua Tree this morning. It was a fantastic week. I listed a few of the climbs we did early on already. Since then we went back to the Wonderland of Rocks and climbed I Can't Believe It's a Girdle (10a). This was a pretty incredible climb: one pitch up and then three pitches in a row of traversing just above the lip of a huge roof system. The climb is actually rated R for the follower, but safe for the second. Sally and I weren't sure which pitch was the R one (turned out to be the last one), and she ended up following it. She kept it together and did an amazing job. She also led another solid 5.9 pitch earlier in the climb.

From there we headed back to the Astro Domes where we climbed Solid Gold - a two pitch 5.10 crimp fest up a gold water streak. In my only other experience at Joshua Tree (back at the January gathering) I climbed the first pitch of this and have had it on my mind to come back and finish it ever since. The second pitch was just as amazing: liebacking up an exposed,vertical flake to a tough mantle and face move. This is followed by an incredible hand traverse on a long horizontal feature, another mantle, and then continued foot traversing on the same feature. Incredible.

We finished up the day by doing Room to Shroom (9) - a nice crack climb which gave Sally her hardest trad lead (onsight nonetheless!).

Yesterday, our last day at J Tree, we decided to stick around the Real Hidden Valley area in hopes of doing less hiking. So much for that. Finding climbs from the nature trail turns out to be really easy - unfortunately we didn't take the trail and spent copius amounts of time circumnavigating the area. We did end up doing a few classics however - Loose Lady (9), Run for Your Life (10b), Illusion Dweller (10b), and Sail Away (8 ).


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