Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Should YDS be used for climbing walls?
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kaptk


Feb 17, 2002, 4:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2001
Posts: 423

Should YDS be used for climbing walls?
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The gym that I am climbing at for a class that I am taking does not rate their climbs. Some gyms rate their climbs in catagories like novice, intermediate, advanced, and expert. Most seem to rate their climbs with a YDS rating, even though it does not apply to artificial routes that well. One of the problems is that wall routes are limited to certain holds, whereas a route out on the rock follows a line. Another problem is when people think they can climb a certain route out on the rock because they climbed something with the same YDS rating in a gym. I want to know how the rest of you feel about this. I like the idea of rating climbs on a wall for difficulty, but I don't think that a YDS rating should be used.


greatgarbanzo


Feb 17, 2002, 5:40 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
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Should YDS be used for climbing walls? [In reply to]
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I think that the main 3 differences between a route on a rock face and a route on a gym are:
1. On a gym is WAY easier to scope the sequence from the base of the route.
2. On a gym the routes are more "size" dependant. (meaning that, since there are no small intermediary hold is very usual to have to dyno for "the" hold if you are a small person).
3. On the gym the "hold recognition" is way too easy (they are colored... c`mon...).
This 3 parameters are taken in count when rating a rock face with the YDS but in the gym are ignored... probably the reason that allows you to climb harder on a gym...

I think gyms should use YDS and sandbag the rating so that this parameters are taken in count.


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