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Double rope anchors.
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jackscoldsweat


Oct 21, 2003, 9:11 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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Double rope anchors.
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I was exorcised of the single rope system a long time back, but didn't decide to drop the clams for doubles until recently. And every penny was worth it...so far. Yes, rope handling is a chore, but the benefits out-way this small hassle. And once you work out the mechanics of managing the ropes, it's smooth sailing from there.

But I'm always looking for idea's on how other's, who use double ropes build their traditional anchor systems minus a cordalette. So far I can only think to use clove hitch's or bites. But the idea is to equalize each anchor together. Any other ideas or systems other than a cordalette? Photos/drawings/links would be a plus.

Yes, I have already searched the forums.

jackscoldsweat


rockczar


Oct 22, 2003, 4:30 AM
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Re: Double rope anchors. [In reply to]
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good question! i started climbing years back in the states but recently moved to the uk to work..everyone over here uses double ropes for trad (even in the gym!) so i finally forked some dough out for a pair....8.5 mm cobras..i could swear they weigh less than a single 10.5!

really like the system..especially since one guy doesn't have to sling the second rope around his back for the rap and you don't have to carry lots of long runners

rope management is indeed more crucial...but i too haven't figured out the best way to tie into trad anchors...when 2 people are at the belay, 4 knots have to be tied!

if the anchor has one equalized point i typically clip a big pear shaped biner (like a petzl attache) through the point and clove hitch both ropes to it...if the anchor is more spread out i tend to make two tie in points and clove hitch one rope to each

i am definitely open to suggestions/advice..try posting to the www.rockfax.com forum and i am sure you will get an anwer..i will do it myself...this is the most popular forum here in the uk i think


brutusofwyde


Oct 22, 2003, 9:13 AM
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Re: Double rope anchors. [In reply to]
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Atomic clips.

See John Long's Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors.

Brutus


dingus


Oct 22, 2003, 9:18 AM
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Re: Double rope anchors. [In reply to]
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Atomic clips.

See John Long's Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors.

Brutus

Yeah, I just treat the two ropes as one, tie a big figure 8 loop in the end and clip the anchors. No muss, no fuss. Why make it needlessly complicated?

DMT


Partner rgold


Oct 22, 2003, 1:58 PM
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Re: Double rope anchors. [In reply to]
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It sounds like you are asking about building an anchor. Some of the responses seem to be about clipping an already constructed anchor.

Two-piece anchor (e.g. 2 bolts): Clip one rope to each anchor.

3-piece anchor: Clip a locker through the loops formed by the ropes at your harness.

Clip one rope up to anchor #1, (no knot) then back to the locker, adjust length, and clove hitch to the locker. From there, run the same rope to anchor #2 and clove hitch to it.

Run the second rope to anchor #3 and clove hitch to it. The whole process typically takes about 20 seconds and doesn't use any more biners (4) than a cordalette requires.

4-piece anchor: Rig both ropes according to the method described above for the first rope.

Variations on this work for any number of anchors and include upward directionals when needed. If you are swinging leads and it isn't a big wall type endeavor, not only are cordalettes not needed, they are slower and less efficient as well as adding to the crap you have to carry.


jackscoldsweat


Oct 22, 2003, 3:00 PM
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Thank you all. Each post has provided much appreciated knowledge.

~Jacks


tradklime


Oct 24, 2003, 1:06 PM
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Re: Double rope anchors. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
It Clip one rope up to anchor #1, (no knot) then back to the locker, adjust length, and clove hitch to the locker. From there, run the same rope to anchor #2 and clove hitch to it.

Alternatively, clove hitch one rope into anchor #1, continue running the same rope to anchor #2 and clove hitch to that anchor, and then run the rope back to you, cloved to a locker at your harness. Uses a little less rope and if anchor #1 and #2 need opposition, it is a quick way to do it by tensioning the rope in between, otherwise just leave a little slack in between the anchors.


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