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hangboards, shoulders, and pain
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bear


Oct 23, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2003
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hangboards, shoulders, and pain
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i've been training on a friend's hangboard recently and have been having some shoulder pain. anybody know what might be wrong? here's the story.

first time training, maybe i was being wimpy but it chewed up my fingers and that was it. second time, i was trying harder stuff and getting my butt kicked, and had a little shoulder pain. third time...shoulder pain. last night...more pain, but it's only my left shoulder.

right now it aches, and when i rotate my arm forward and up, palm any direction, i get some pain at the top or just behind vertical. i often get aches from sleeping wrong on my shoulder, though only the left. my right upper arm and shoulder is bigger than my left, and my left forearm is bigger than my right. while trying pullups it seems my left side is stronger. i don't understand that one. i don't think the problem is that i need to rest more. i've been doing every other or every third day on the board, plus climbing a couple times a week.

is it possible that the hangboard is too narrow for my broad shoulders, and that everything is just getting crunched?

thoughts anybody?

thanks,
julie


dontfall


Oct 23, 2003, 3:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
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dontfall moved this thread from General to Injuries & Accidents.


poppasmearf


Oct 23, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Re: hangboards, shoulders, and pain [In reply to]
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hangboards can be brutal to train on if your body isnt already in decent climbing shape. I doubt that it is too narrow for your shoulders, it is just putting a lot of strain on them. I would suggest mixing in some easy climbing with your work out to get your shoulders used to more stress.

I went through a phase last winter where I had serious shoulder pain (like shooting pains!) all down my left arm as well as numbness and tingley feelings at night. I think everyone goes through something like this while training hard. On the days that you're feeling good, climb (or hang) as hard as possible, you'll eventually get past it :wink:


davep


Oct 23, 2003, 3:32 PM
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make sure you are hanging with arms slightly bent (i..e 150degree at the elbow) as opposed to hanging with arms locked dead straight (180 degrees). i dunno if this will hepl, but it is known that hadning straight armed on deadhangs can fuck your joints up.


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