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howdyjeff
Oct 23, 2003, 2:46 AM
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Meg, your point about this probably not being the follower's fall pulling the belay from above is just what I was going to suggest to Walter. The belayer can usually very easily absorb the much lower forces generated by such a short fall, often without even much force being put on the anchors.
I don't want to make too much out of this, but I'm going to stick with my theory about a fall from pitch three. I don't think it necessarily conflicts with what you saw, Meg. Here's my reasoning:
First, remember that the start of The Step itself is very high on the rock to begin with. I took a look at a very detailed digital photo I have, today, and I think that the initial belay from the ledge it shares with Super Pooper is probably close to the same height as Lunch Ledge, which is the top of the fourth pitch on Angel's Fright. Coupled with the fact that the second pitch on The Step is very long, that means that the third pitch is actually very high on the rock. I don't know that you can actually see much of the route above the second pitch from the base or from your position on Angel's Fright, though I could be mistaken. All I'm saying here is that both the third and fourth pitches are very high up.
Second, there is the report of climbers low and far to the right hearing swearing, gear popping, and rockfall. In this case, I think that it would be much more likely that the fall occurred on pitch three than four. The pitch four finish, right, onto Super Pooper, has only very few thin to medium gear placements. There is a placement shortly above the belay in an upward-facing crack behind a small bulge. This is the bulge, by the way, that has for many years sported a sling fixed only by it's jammed knot (beware). A few face moves then lead to a wall/roof that offers more gear placements and that is traversed up and right, then surmounted. This is all pretty easy climbing. Above this, there is a slab move or two that are just enough steeper than any on the slab above Lunch Ledge to be pretty sketchy. Anyway, this means that, given the reports of gear discovered on the rope after the fall, I think that, if on pitch four, the leader would have been rounding the slab to the top. Now think about how difficult it is to hear your partner while yelling at the top of your lungs back and forth over just one pitch between the top of the rock and Lunch Ledge, over on the west face. If the climbers were on the upper section of pitch four, I think it would be very hard to hear anything at all so far below. Perhaps not, though, if they were on pitch three.
Finally, there is the issue of where the climbers were discovered after the fall. The reports mention Fool's Rush, which is to the left of The Step. But pitch four of the climb curves up and right. This would place the results of a fall closer to the base of Super Pooper or even farther right. A fall from pitch three (or lower) is more likely to go left.
Unfortunately, I think that we might have taken the speculation as far as it can go at this point, and that we're just going to have to wait to see if the investigators can discover any hard evidence.
Again, I'll leave the facts and speculation now and finish with the more important heart-felt, human things. Florabel has been a trooper all along. Although she has had moments of deep sadness, she has also shown great strength. My heart goes out to her. For my part, I think that the real effects of losing a great friend like Dave will only begin to emerge slowly, over time. I just keep expecting him to swing by my place any day now on his way home from work for a beer and a philosophical chat about climbing, or life.
Jeff
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adamzappal
Oct 23, 2003, 4:05 AM
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The anchor was with a yellow accessory cord like 7mm or so and David had anchored himself in with a pinkish accessory cord (6mm maybe) tied directly to his belay loop with a figure8
Anchor
(1) Size .5 Camelot This was damaged as the cams were kinda stuck and you had to move it with your fingers to get it to retract. **at first I thought it was 2x .5 sized Camalots. Looking at the gear later I saw the supposed 2nd was actually clipped to his harness with a variety of other cams and a few larger stoppers**
(1) Size 1 Camelot (which was only piece I had unclipped from the anchor) and set aside.
(?)There may have been a Size 2 Camelot as well or another piece, as I did not want to pull all the gear out from under Davids back or really move him in the first place.
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roseraie
Oct 23, 2003, 4:06 AM
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This one is from the Idyllwild Town Crier:
In reply to: Climbers fall to death By Darla Priest Staff Reporter A witness who stayed with one of the two climbers who fell about 160 feet to his death while climbing White Maiden route on Tahquitz Rock last Sunday said he heard the climbers fall. Climber Adam Baroumand of Irvine, reached the top of Lunch Rock Trail, where he was preparing to climb The Trough, when he heard three loud popping sounds followed by two hard thugs. "It sounded like gears ripping out ... Then, I heard tons of rock fall," Baroumand said. "Another climber, [an unknown female witness], who was on the route above was calling out 'Are you all right down there?'" An accident had occurred on Tahquitz Rock. At about 1:30 p.m., Baroumand's climbing partner Helene Herron of Irvine, went for help and used her cell phone to call 911. "I just got to the top of the trail ... Adam was going to teach me how to climb but then the accident happened," Herron said. "I dropped my backpack and went for help." Baroumand soon realized that two climbers had fallen from somewhere near the West Face Bulge and went to assist one of the fallen climbers who was still alive. "I don't know if he could hear me but I kept telling him everything was going to be all right and to hang in there because help was on the way," Baroumand said. The other climber had fallen about 200 feet and died instantly. "I knew it was bad when I saw shattered helmets," Baroumand said. "I stayed with him for about 30 minutes until help arrived. "Apparently, the lead climber took a factor two fall and fell past the belay [where the rope is anchored] and the two climbers both fell ... The load was directly on the anchor." The two fallen climbers were identified as Kelly Tufo, 32, of Anza, and David Kellogg, 41, of San Diego. Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit (RMRU), Idyllwild Fire Protection District, Riverside County Sheriff’s Department and the Forest Service responded to the scene. RMRU responded to the scene at about 2 p.m. "We had about 18 volunteers there from RMRU who helped carry equipment to the scene and were there to assist the sheriff's department," said Jim Fairchild, RMRU. RMRU rescuers located the bodies and lowered them to a safe location for transporting. RMRU members Glen Henderson, Kirk Cloyd, Dave Webb, Dana Potts and Michael George were instrumental in the rescue. "The bodies were lowered, put into body bags, then placed on stretchers," Fairchild said. "Everyone helped." Due to darkness and the safety of the rescuers, the extraction of the victims was postponed until 7 a.m. Monday. RMRU members Potts and George stayed with the victims throughout the night until the bodies were extracted by helicopter. "Rock climbers are a family within themselves ... When someone gets hurt they stop and help each other," said Pat Boss, Forest Service public information officer. "After a fatal fall it takes a toll on all of the climbers. They say, 'It could have been me.'" The two fallen climbers were climbing up the White Maiden route heading toward the vicinity of the Vampire which is located near the West Face Bulge, RMRU officials said. This section of Tahquitz Rock features the large, bulging headwall on the west face of the rock. The area can be viewed from a distance at Humber Park. About 200 routes exist on Tahquitz Rock which is known for its crack climbing. The history of rock climbing on Tahquitz dates back to the beginnings of technical rock climbing in America. The Trough route was first ascended in 1936. It is the easiest route up the cliff and an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing. By 1940, about a dozen more routes had been established. In 1952, Royal Robbins had established one of the hardest free climbs in America, The Open Book. It's one of Tahquitz's classic lines. Before climbing Tahquitz Rock climbers should consider the following: Attend a professional rock climbing class on climbing techniques and equipment and never climb alone or take unnecessary chances. |
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acohen
Oct 23, 2003, 6:34 AM
Post #104 of 221
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my deepest sorrows for my friend DCK........ I will miss him. I am no climber but I know he was,
He would not go all the way unless it was "safe".....
Any responses to understand would be helpful....
email:http://[b]adam_c_4me@yahoo.com [/b]
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radclimerchick
Oct 23, 2003, 12:23 PM
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Regarding the comments made to "radclimerchick," if you knew me or what happened on my end, you would never have said this. I will not use this forum to defend myself, nor do not feel like I should have to.
I am at peace with myself and my actions.
Leslie
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socalclimber
Oct 23, 2003, 12:30 PM
Post #106 of 221
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adamzappal, thanks for the info on the anchor. Was there any other gear still clipped to the rope? Or was the only gear the belay? Any idea of how much rope was out between them?
Thanks
Robert
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azeini
Oct 23, 2003, 3:31 PM
Post #107 of 221
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I did not know those two fallen climbers and I am not from US, but my heart is with the family members and friends of those climbers. My condolences to all involved in this tragedy.
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surfngreaser
Oct 23, 2003, 5:46 PM
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David was a co-worker of mine and someone who I shared more than a few laughs with. He will be deeply missed. I am not a climber myself but I understand the camaraderie and sense of family you all have for each other so I thought I'd pass along this info:
Memorial Services for David Kellogg
Wednesday October 29 at 10 AM
Solana Beach Presbyterian Church
120 Stevens Avenue
Solana Beach, CA 92075
Donations, in lieu of flowers, can be sent to:
Nicolas Dylan Kellogg College Fund
C/o USA Federal Credit Union
9889 Erma Road
San Diego, CA 92131
A/C # 719100
Cards and letters can be sent to his home address:
6320 Rustic Drive
San Diego, CA 92139
"KIT come quick I need you"
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howdyjeff
Oct 23, 2003, 7:00 PM
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One word: Respect.
Respect the journalists, even if they get it a little wrong. They are climbing's link to the public, and it does no good to alienate them. Instead, try to politely increase climbing awareness and learning in those who are interested.
Respect the posters who, in trying to come to terms with this, provide what you might believe to be questionable information or opinion. Polite disagreement and constructive criticism is fine, but sometimes it's just best to let go of blame, suspicion, and arguments over who was or was not there, and what should or should not have been done. In any case, what's really important here will rise to the surface, and the rest will just fade away.
Respect the rescue workers and other officials involved, and, as climbers, get involved in these sorts of efforts yourselves, when appropriate. Work to increase safety and prevent accidents, support climbing advocacy organizations, learn self-rescue and how to aid others. Communicate to non-climbers, who may not understand, that climbing is not about recklessness and danger, but rather a very valid and important expression of the human spirit. These efforts are important, because they preserve our freedom to continue to pursue such expression in the future. Friends know that this is what Dave strived for in himself.
If we respect these things, we respect the fact that this thread is about Dave and Kelly: honoring them, learning from them, preserving our memory of them, and supporting those close to them.
Jeff
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josher
Oct 23, 2003, 7:02 PM
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WORD
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stevekapali
Oct 23, 2003, 7:07 PM
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or as Dave would say - "Palabra!"
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howdyjeff
Oct 23, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Here's another one of my favorites of Dave, which I took on a recent aid climbing trip to Zion. He always thought he looked like a dork in the helmet, but I think he looks pretty sharp.
http://home.earthlink.net/...n0503/dave_ledge.jpg
Jeff
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ricardol
Oct 23, 2003, 7:29 PM
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i am truly saddened by their passing ..
-- ricardo
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jarmani
Oct 23, 2003, 7:30 PM
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I would like to send my deepest condolences to the family, friends, and loved ones of both Kelly and Dave.
I also want to thank the climbers who witnessed the accident and to those on hand to assist that afternoon. I can’t imagine your own pain, and am so grateful for your continual strength and courage. Thank you too, for your postings on this site. The information you’ve provided, and the dialogue you’ve inspired, have been invaluable to those in and outside of the climbing community to piece together what exactly happened. I am astounded and deeply comforted by the responses I’ve found here.
I would like to write a little bit about Kelly Tufo, one of the fallen climbers. I only knew Kelly for a short time this past summer, but in that brief time Kelly managed to teach me so much. Kelly was one of the most genuine and loving people I have ever met. He had such a kind and gentle way about him. Over those short few months, he was so easy to know, and irresistible to love.
Kelly was the type of person who had so much energy all of the time. He had a passion for life, learning, and for experiencing everything he possibly could while he was here. Kelly loved music and books, good food and better conversation. He loved to laugh and he loved his dog Squiggy. He loved the art of hard, honest work. He loved adventure and testing the upper most limits of the human spirit.
Kelly loved the outdoors and Mother Nature. He loved the planet and throughout his life, strived to live harmoniously with her.
Kelly had a magic about him and a way of looking at the world through the eyes of a child, with utter and complete awe. He was so fascinated and curious about everything around him, big and small.
Kelly had selfless love and compassion for so many things beyond himself.
I truly believe in this world that indeed, energy can neither be created, nor destroyed. I believe both Dave and Kelly will live on in more ways than one. During this difficult time, I wish all affected by this tragedy peace, strength, and courage.
Jennifer
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nattydread
Oct 23, 2003, 7:58 PM
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Thanks, Jeff. I think you summed it up well.
This post has been wonderful. I, and no doubt many others who knew Dave and Kelly (including yourself), have been reading this thread daily, trying to find answers and some way to deal with our loss. I appreciate everyone's comments.
To the folks involved in the rescue, thank you so much for being there for our friends. It's a great relief to know Dave and Kelly were not alone and that if there had been a chance of their survival, you guys would've made it happen.
Jennifer, funny you mentioned that about their energies being perpetuated. Steve and I had a very similar discussion last night. I believe their energies and love of life are still with us as well.
Thanks again for all who've posted.
Natasha
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artm
Oct 23, 2003, 8:06 PM
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I'd like to personally acknowledge all the other climbers who came to Dave and Kelly's assistance along with Meg and I
Adam Baroumand (first climber on scene)
Helene Herron
Tom
Jeremiah
Ryan
Brent
There were a few others who's names I've forgotten or didn't receive and for that I apologize.
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cjain
Oct 23, 2003, 8:12 PM
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In reply to: Regarding the comments made to "radclimerchick," if you knew me or what happened on my end, you would never have said this. I will not use this forum to defend myself, nor do not feel like I should have to. I am at peace with myself and my actions. Leslie
I'm glad to see that the comments referred to above have been deleted. Radclimerchick is a friend of mine and she's legit. (And in fact my fiance, Michelle, and I had tentativley planned to link up with her at Humber Park that fateful Sunday but were unable to make it due to last-minute family obligations.) Anyway, let's not let this distract us from the much more important issues being discussed.
Chris Jain
Irvine, CA
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mmarc
Oct 23, 2003, 9:46 PM
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My name is Marc Kellogg,the brother of Dave Kellogg killed this past Sunday climbing at Tahquitz.
The time of the service is 2 pm not 10 am
I want to thank everyone for their support over these very difficult times. I especially would like to thank all of you who were on the rock that day and helped with the recovery of Dave and his friend Kelly.
I know how much he and all of you love your sport. The best way to honor dave is to load up your gear and go climbing.
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florabel
Oct 23, 2003, 10:19 PM
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Okay, the incorrect time was my fault!!! I didn't reconfirm the time when I spoke with his father.......
Memorial Services for David Kellogg
Wednesday, October 29, 2003, 2PM
Solana Beach Presbyterian Church
120 Stevens Avenue
Solana Beach, CA 92075
Thanks again everybody!!!
Florabel
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yosemite
Oct 23, 2003, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: My name is Marc Kellogg,the brother of Dave Kellogg killed this past Sunday climbing at Tahquitz. The best way to honor dave is to load up your gear and go climbing.
Marc,
I am moved by the way you want the climbing community to honor the memory of your brother Dave. It tells me the kind of family Dave has, and something about Dave himself.
Our thoughts are with you and the family.
Gene Malone & Family
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stevekapali
Oct 23, 2003, 11:15 PM
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I wish i could thank all of you in person.
Thank you Meg for beginning this discussion. It has been an awesome source of inspiration to help deal with this tragic event. Thank you to both you and Art for doing what you could do to help out our friends. Thank you for listing the names of the others that helped out: Adam Baroumand, Helene Herron, Tom, Jeremiah, Ryan, and Brent - Thank you so much. I also would like to thank Potts and George for spending the night with my fallen bros - I believe these guys are volunteers too. Thank you so much.
Thanks Jeff - FOR EVERYTHING. For posting your thought and feed back on the route. It really helped to clarify some of the mystery of it all. Reading that post helped me be with my friend on that fatal route. Thanks for being there for Florabel on Monday and i'm sorry you had to break the news to her. I know you and Dave were close climbing buddies - i weep with you.
I would like to give my deepest and sincerest condolences to everyone affected by this. To the family and friends of Kelly - I'm so sorry. I met Kelly once on a climbing trip in Josh. He was a great guy. Fun and great to talk to.
Dave is a dear friend of mine. To all those who knew him and was blessed to be in his presence, know what a good spirit Dave is. He is all about the rock. He also all about safety. I can't tell you how many safety meetings we had before a climb. He was the one that brought me into climbing and looked over me as i progressed. His passion for the sport was contagious. He loved climbing. We took a trip to Costa Rica and it was pretty much gonna be a trip where we would go do some tourist things and maybe get some surf. What did Dave do - he packed up his whole rack - just in case he found some rock. No guide book, no beta - just in case. The boy loved to climb.
It has been extremely difficult to accept that fact that my friend is gone. However, i know that this is the way he would have wanted to go. I'm not saying he wanted to die - he definitely didn't want to die. He was always excited about growing up with his son. Nicolas was bound to be a climber with his dad. He would be so excited to tell us how Nicolas has the grip of a climber and how he sent routes up the couch and various things around the house.
I miss you Dave.
Palabra!
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blynn
Oct 24, 2003, 12:55 AM
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:( My Deepest sympothies to the family and friends of both Dave and Kelly. I went to high school with Dave and I am truly saddened that he is gone. I can recall some really great times I had with Dave (The Grateful Deads last show @ Irvine Meadows!) comes to mind.
Dave had a very enthusiastic way of looking at life back then, and from all that I have read in this site and heard from friends that enthusiasm never faded away. When someone has a passion in their life it is a true blessing. Climbing rocks was obviously the passion within Dave.
Brian Lynn
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annandjese
Oct 24, 2003, 2:28 AM
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I would like to thank all the people involved in this forum for adding their insight and comforting words about Kelly, Dave, and this tragic accident. Again, my wife Ann and I were extremely close friends to both men.
I had the opportunity to work with Kelly for several months this spring while we remodeled my new business. During this time Kelly and Squiggy (the smartest dog ever) stayed at my home, (since his house in Anza is so far away). Even though Kelly and I had known each other for about 5 years this gave us the opportunity to really get close (like brothers).Many long days of Kelly patiently teaching me the tricks of the trade. In reality I was just a laborer, assisting him with the non skill components of the job. He was a true master of all facets of construction and held a general contractors license. Even more impressive than his skills was his unbelievable work ethic. He worked harder than three men put together, no joke! Kelly would absolutely wear me out. Everything he did he did with remarkable enthusiasm. He had a wonderfully quirky personality; he was a truly unique individual.
The conversations are what I will really miss. Well read and deeply philosophical Kelly and I could go on for hours. That is why it was so great to spend time with him in the outdoors away from distractions. There was never a dull moment. Kelly and I over the years have experienced many things together, from snowboarding trips, to camping and climbing he was always up for adventure. His caring and selfless spirit will always be remembered.
Dave was my friend for over 15 years, truly. In our busy lives it’s easy to loose touch with people, but Dave and I hardly had a lull in the entire time. I too was brought to climbing by Dave. He was such a remarkable influence on people in regards to climbing. He loved it to no end. His happy go lucky personality was a tribute to the peace he always found through climbing. I don’t know how many times Dave drove 12 hours from Humboldt State to meet me at Red Rocks for a short weekend of climbing. There is nothing he loved more than to “send” a new route.
Dave had so many special qualities and so many admirers that I always felt that I was forced to share him. I feel privileged to have had so much one on one time with him. I know he is loved and respected by many.
There are three memorial services that I would l like to post:
Memorial for David Kellogg and Kelly Tufo
Saturday October 25th at 11 am
Humber Park in Idlewild
Memorial for Kelly Tofo
Monday October 27th 7pm
Diesel Salon (which Kelly built)
4222 Adams ave.
San Diego, Ca. 92116
619-281-6863
Memorial for David Kellogg
Wednesday October 29th at 2pm
120 Stevens ave.
Solana Beach, Ca. 92075
I would like to encourage anyone who was touched by these men to please join us in remembering their wonderful spirits.
A personal thanks to the potential rescuers who responded selflessly to this tragic accident. Special thanks to Adam for having the strength and courage to deal with a hard situation. I feel good knowing my friends were not alone in their last moments. Thanks again to everyone interacting through this thread, it has helped me tremendously.
Best wishes to all,
Jesse Castro
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