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endurance (help, im a weakling)
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bigfish03


Feb 18, 2002, 7:36 PM
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endurance (help, im a weakling)
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hey out there

i find that my arms get tired realy fast. part of it im sure has to do with 2 month break from climbing that i have taken, but im sure thats not all of it. since my oportunity to climb is limited untill school starts again i was wondering if there are any away-from-the-rocks excercises i could do to boost my endurance.
thanx for everythin

ryan


jdean


Feb 19, 2002, 5:28 AM
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endurance (help, im a weakling) [In reply to]
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There are few absolutes/generalizations in training (example: "running always increases the efficiency of your cardiopulmonary system and aerobic capacity while weightlifting increases the strength and endurance of your skeletal muscles", etc.) and because training is so dependent on the individual, it's hard to say "you should or shouldn't do this to acheive this particular result". Having said that and without knowing your level of fitness/body type, my advice is that if you can get to a climbing gym, get on a tread wall, or get on a steep bouldering wall (or even better, a long top rope route!) with big holds. Don't worry about doing any specific problem, just find a line with holds big enough that you don't have to get too technical and can climb to the top easily (i.e., jug haul). Run laps on that line until you are about to puke...in other words--log mileage on the wall. That means once you climb it, down climb it but don't get off the wall, then climb back up again. That's pretty much what I did and my endurance went through the roof in a couple of weeks. Just for reference though, I am 5'8"/160 lb, so the time in which it takes you to see results may vary. I hope that doesn't sound like a big jumbled mess, and if it does, feel free to drop me a PM and I will clarify.

[ This Message was edited by: jdean on 2002-02-19 05:29 ]


jonoj


Feb 19, 2002, 6:45 AM
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endurance (help, im a weakling) [In reply to]
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Yea, just climb relatively easly grades over and over until you are about to puke .... have a five minute break, and then climb until you do puke. Seriously though, the best way to work up your endurance is to top rope a long but easy climb as often as you can with no breaks in between. I generally know that I've done some good training when I don't have the strength to untie my shoe-laces afterwards.
Downclimbing is also a good way to work your stamina.


krillen


Feb 19, 2002, 8:15 AM
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Down climbing didn't work FOR ME, it may for you, but it was hard on my joints and tendons.

My solution was climb hard, not much rest between route, and keep climbign unitl you can barely open a door or hold a pencil. Repeat as often as is comforatble.

If facilities are limited, try just handing off a door frame or something of the like until you fall off. take a rest and repeat.

All the advice here so far is good, you just have to figure out what works for you. good luck


colin


Feb 19, 2002, 2:20 PM
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Traverses on easy holds.


kyhangdog


Feb 20, 2002, 5:49 AM
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Set up top-ropes on routes at grades that you are comfortable climbing, yet not dogging it. Do laps. Maybe two or three laps without stopping. Take a short break. Hit it again. Try to get in about ten or eleven routes that way.


kyhangdog


Feb 20, 2002, 5:51 AM
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Set up top-ropes on routes at grades that you are comfortable climbing, yet not dogging it. Do laps. Maybe two or three laps without stopping. Take a short break. Hit it again. Try to get in about ten or eleven routes that way.


loafdog


Feb 20, 2002, 7:24 AM
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If you want a good forearm workout get a piece of strong plastic pipe (about inch and half thick), 3 1/2 feet of rope and a 5 pound weight. Drill a hole though the center of the pipe (from side to side) and tie the rope though it, tie the other end to the weight . now hold the pipe at arms legnth (horizontal) and roll the pipe so the rope rolls up on it and the weight moves up.
Repeat rolling up and down the weight and soon your arms will be massive.



bigfish03


Feb 20, 2002, 9:14 AM
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thanks to all, i will be trying out some of your suggestions as soon as i can.


ryan


varstar10


Feb 20, 2002, 11:36 PM
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Dude...i think i have this endurance thing figured out. I have a climbing wall at my work. The training i do on it is awesome and can be done at the local gyms or home walls. Well here is goes. I tilt the wall at a 45 degree angle. And i do 3 sets of 5 mins of laps on it. And then i try to do the routes that i set up on it from start to finish. OH and i didnt mention that all the routes that are set up on it are at least 20 moves long. Thats what i do and i have great endurance.

Hope this helps.

Jon


gekolimit


Feb 21, 2002, 12:06 AM
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you need 3 grips on your wall. two small ones for your feet, then one big one for infront of your head....get on and stay on as long as you can....swap hands and chalk from time to time....but don't get off. Put on a cd or the tele, cause it gets really boring for a while.
If possible have the grip for your hands on a overhanging so your leaning back. Or put it lower so that you are forced to crouch and hang back.


treyr


Mar 8, 2002, 7:18 AM
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A good tip that heard from tori allen is that she keeps climbing route after route to build endurance

Trob


outhere


Mar 8, 2002, 8:50 AM
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Another thing is, dont start out on one of your harder routes or you will get a mad pump and wont have as much umff 5 minutes later. Stretch out your arms on some softer routes and you'll have a lot more fun on the next climb.

[ This Message was edited by: outhere on 2002-03-08 08:51 ]

[ This Message was edited by: outhere on 2002-03-08 08:51 ]


metoliusmunchkin


Mar 8, 2002, 11:52 AM
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I agree wholeheartedly with Krillen. Down climbing did not work for me either, and yet the theory of climbing until you can no longer hold a pencil is a great way to improve endurance. Like the popular climbing term says:

Quote:Milk it 'til it bleeds!

I too have experienced great problems when it came down to endurance, and I had simply figured that this was because of my lack of climbing routes, and devotion to bouldering. I found that due to this, that I should climb a route, or stay upon the wall (in the gym) for as long as I could, until I would simply fall off the wall from sheer exhaustion.

I recommend undergoing such training once during your regular training session at the gym. That is to say, proceed with your regular training routines (in the gym of course), and once finished these, hop on a route, and stay on it (moving in diagonal directions, rather than vertical directions) until you just fall off.

To avoid having your regular training sessions suffer, you must do this only after your regular routine (this goes also to avoid serious injury).


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