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Self Belay without specialty gear?
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miagi


Feb 18, 2002, 9:04 PM
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Self Belay without specialty gear?
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The local crags around my area cant be sport climbed and i dont have the gear for trad so i usually go top roping if i can find myself a belay slave but alot of the times i cant and i miss a good climb. Ive seen "Self Belay Products" but im a little short on cash and they are around 100 or ascenders for 50$. Is there a way to self belay with a top rope or a rappel setup?? There is a clove hitch method which im not sure of, using a prussik and sliding it up as you go (too much trouble) and this poor man's gri gri method. All 3 are pretty hard to do. Im just wondering if there is an easier way. HELP!!
[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-02-18 21:05 ]

[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-02-19 13:13 ]

[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-02-19 13:41 ]


crackwhore


Feb 18, 2002, 9:47 PM
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if you are rreeeaaalyy short on cash and you really have to climb ...

any thing that acts as an ascender can be used to "self belay" when toproping.

if you want to get into leading you will have to spend some dough on plenty of gear.

just remember...

you have to "belay" your "self"

any number of setups may be used but most center around a fixed line, a "self belay" device and a series of backups as you ascend.

if you are still swinging from this vine when i come back to it, i would be happy to share more...

back yerself up


miagi


Feb 18, 2002, 10:20 PM
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Another way i thought to lessen the jumble of biners and knots on my harness might be to just set up like a rappel. Get a biner and figure eight, hook it to the rope and start climbing (with an autoblock on my leg harness) Either way ive said is still going to mess me up if i need balance with both hands. O well, this might be the best way possible without a self belay device


apollodorus


Feb 18, 2002, 10:47 PM
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You can do a top rope self belay using pliable 6mm utility cord as a prussik knot. Make sure it's not too stiff. The prussik (triple wrap) has about a 1 foot tail loop that you tie into. You can also wrap the cord around your rope about six times, and then tie the ends together into a loop into your harness.

Duct-tape a 3" plastic tube to the front of your harness, so it points up and down. It should be flexible clear PVC tubing, and about 3/4 inch inside.

Put the rope through the tube, and then attach the prussik knot and tie in.

When you move up, the prussik compresses against the tube, and the rope slides down past you. If you fall, the prussik is moved up, away from the tube, and grabs. Having a 1 foot tail means it's right in front of you, so you can loosen it.

This will leave both hands free.

You can also tape the plastic tube to a carabiner, so you can just clip it to yourself. Also, you can slice the tube lengthwise for taking it on and off the rope. It will still hold its shape to stay on the rope, unless you make a wide reach (the prussik won't come off until you untie it).


miagi


Feb 19, 2002, 11:47 AM
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   Im trying to visualize this pipe thing but i cant. Let me try to recapture the moment . We have our rope going from our harness up through the anchor and back down to me. I tape a pipe up/down on my harness. I slip the rope connected to me inside of the pipe? Or the rope coming down from the anchor? And then the prussik...well im going to use a klemheist. Is it put under the pipe or above it?


apollodorus


Feb 20, 2002, 5:12 PM
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Sorry for the unclear explanation.

Ok, from the top down: the rope is anchored like a jugging line, then comes down to you. The prussik knot is around the rope, then the rope goes through the little tube. As you climb up, the prussik moves down until it hits the tube. The tube stops the prussik knot from moving down past you. The rope will slide through the prussik as you move up the climb. If you fall, the prussik will go up, away from the tube, and work normally to stop you. Since it's about at chest level when you fall, it's in a good place to grab.


fo_d


Feb 20, 2002, 5:48 PM
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apollodorus, ok if I unbderstand this right, when you fall you are stopped by the 6mm prussik? is that then the only link between you and the rope? If thats what your saying then I think that is way to weak I wouldnt truast 6mm cord for that purpus and there is no back up. If I'm wrong and thats not what you meant then I appologise.

Les


miagi


Feb 20, 2002, 6:05 PM
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ok apollodorus, thanks for the input. I see what your saying now. Im going to test it out just at the bottom of the crag though just so i make sure its efficient.
I bought a Petzl Basic Ascender though and im going to use it from now on but im interested in the pipe thing so im going to try it out. (My girlfriend gave me money )
Here is the thing though, i dont know if the petzl basic's teeth will tear up my rope like some people say. Some say it will, others say it wont. If you or anyone else knows please reply at my other post
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7008&forum=40&3

[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-02-20 18:06 ]


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