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treyr
Feb 19, 2002, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2001
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I love bolts safety comes first. The gear is cheaper but very safe.
TROB
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rck_climber
Feb 19, 2002, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
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I guess it just comes with time. I'm still a little tentative with my placements, but found a LOT more confidence after I'd placed some pieces and rested on them. I've still never (thankfully) had the distinct pleasure of falling on my own pro yet, but now that I've put all of my body weight on it, I'm much more confident in it.
The best part of placing pro is that you know without a doubt just how well that piece is. When you clip a bolt, you don't know who placed it, if they knew what they were doing, how well it's really in there, or how long it's been there - when you set your own, you take all of these factors out of the equation.
Just some thoughts, hope they help.
Mick
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rrrADAM
Feb 21, 2002, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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I feel much safer on passive pro I've placed myself than on bolts someone else has placed. On sandstone, I like active.
They are not foolproof, their dependabilty depends on the materials used, and the skill and experience of the bolter. There are many parameters that effect the integrity of a bolt, and most people just clip them thinking they are all bombproof. Read this for more...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=3153&forum=40&66
~Adam
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kaptk
Feb 22, 2002, 8:50 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2001
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I think along the same lines as rrradam regarding this post. I know that it takes practice to set your own gear, but I would have more confidence in it than a bolt.
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jt512
Feb 24, 2002, 7:58 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Since you posted your question in the sport climbing forum, people are going to say they trust bolts more, of course. Post again in the trad forum and see what answers you get.
-Jay
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pwsk
Feb 24, 2002, 8:45 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
Posts: 54
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It's all in the mind probably...When you say "bolt" it sounds hectically safe - and probably is - but when you say "trad protection" it sounds shaky to some people, because of the human factor involved I presume. I climbed in Waterval Boven(SA) this week-end where I personally saw 2 bolts buckle a few years back. And how many times have you heard of someone's pro coming out of the wall? I think that once you have absolute confidence in yourself - on trad for instance - your protections will seem bomber and that will be the safest for you.
Bolts are placed by someone else..that creates doubt. Pro is placed loosly in a crack in the rock..that creates doubt...
In all respects I think it boils down to an understanding with yourself; that climbing is dangerous and that it is only as safe as you make it for yourself. All protection is absolutely bomber if used correctly(sport or trad)! Do it safely...
Rock on...
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