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mauta
Feb 20, 2002, 1:32 PM
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Hi climbers,
i have bought some meters of "Beal" tubular webbing. According to the manufacterer´s specificactions, its breaking strenght is 1500 kg.
I plan to use it to make quickdraws of different lenghts.
My question is:
is 1500 kg a satisfactory breaking strenght for the use i am planning? (that is, joining two biners to make a quickdraw).
Thanks,
JUAN
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jt512
Feb 20, 2002, 4:51 PM
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You should write to Beal and ask them. What matters is what the breaking strength is when the webbing is knotted.
Of course, you could just buy sewn runners or manufactured quickdraw slings, since they are lighter, safer, less bulky, and cost next to nothing.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-02-20 10:01 ]
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woodse
Feb 20, 2002, 4:54 PM
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I've seen this done quite a bit with SEWN slings but not all that often with webbing. Remember that the knot will decrease the strength, I think a water knot has 65% the strength of tensile webbing (no knot), so you won't actually have the spec strength. In my opinion it would be better to buy some different size slings and make the draws especially if you take some big falls when climbing.
woodsE
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dustinap
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Feb 20, 2002, 5:51 PM
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1500kg you said?
that's a bout 17 KN,I think.
water knot is 75-80% in the book I have.
Chances are even with it knotted it'll be more then strong enough. If I was going to use webbing for runners I'd probably use 9/16 climb spec, which might not even be as strong as what you have.
It is pretty close in strength I think though.
I wouldn't really worry about the strenght, I'd worry more about using good carabiners, like wire gates on the rope end. When a gate flutters open when you fall and the carabiner is reduced to around 7KN strength, that's what we call a bad thing.
Remeber, lets say with your knot, the webbing is 12 KN strong, that is still a heck of a fall more then likely, and is probably stronger then the gear you're placing.
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paulc
Feb 20, 2002, 6:05 PM
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Also you could probably figure out about how much force is going to be on your runners, by checking the max force listed for your rope. Typically this number is about 2-4 KN (as I recall you certainly want to check this yourself) So the force on your runner will be (assuming no dynamicicity in your belay at at all and taking a worst case fall) about 4-8 KN. Also kinda assuming that you don't weigh 300lbs. You could figure this all out though.
Paul
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mauta
Feb 21, 2002, 2:26 AM
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Hi!
thanks for your useful advices !!
If in doubt, another possibility i can imagine is to use the webbing in double (and have this way the extra possibility of a longer sling using it in simple).
I know the strenght will not duplicate, but it will increase for sure (how much??).
Do you think it is a good idea?
JUAN
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gekolimit
Feb 21, 2002, 8:30 AM
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i find tubular webbing looses it's shape very quikly and becomes messy. prefer the tape format.
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socialclimber
Feb 21, 2002, 11:20 AM
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dustinap, The difference between kn and kg is kn measures dynamic load and kg in this context measures static load. Webbing that has a breaking strain of 1500kg won't necessarly have a breaking strain of 17kn of force. I agree that you would pull your gear before trashing the webbing if you took a fall
Having said that, matua 1500kg is a similar weight to two small cars. If you manage to break the stuff by falling on it, I'd say you have bigger problems to worry about.
[ This Message was edited by: socialclimber on 2002-02-21 03:25 ]
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coach
Feb 21, 2002, 1:50 PM
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If my math is close to correct 1500kg would come out somewhere over 3000lb. Not bad for climbing purposes. All of my slings are tied from webbing purchased for that purpose. Like was said before, if you generate enough force to break the webbing, something else will probably give first, like your body! If you plan on using lots of slings it will save you money in the long run.
Climb On
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dustinap
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Feb 21, 2002, 6:56 PM
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Social, VERY GOOD POINT, I didn't even consider that.
One thing I did think about though, isn't webbing almost completely static?
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