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jonoj
Feb 19, 2002, 3:18 PM
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I've been climbing for about a year now, and for the past four months or so have been stuck on (sport) 5.11c(23).
Is this a particularly hard grade to get past, or am I just being impatient?
Jono
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rastalizard
Feb 19, 2002, 3:37 PM
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23's are hard.But that is good going for a years climbing.I don't have any great advice as I am in a similar position.But I am going with the attitude of climbing as many routes just under that grade as possible.To build up technique and strength.
Good luck.
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pianomahnn
Feb 19, 2002, 3:41 PM
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Either you're physically incapable, mentally incapable, or just not trying hard enough.
Why not try some harder routes? Or just work the hell out of the 11c routes?
I've found that climbing routes a few grades harder than I can redpoint will get my stronger.
Give it a whirl.
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crackaddict
Feb 19, 2002, 4:59 PM
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You are hitting the 5.12 barrier. Since you have been climbing only a year you probably have'nt seen much fluctuation in your climbing. Ussually when you start out you will improve to a point then slow down for a while and hit a plateau. It will probably keep occuring in your climbing. Thats what makes climbing so challengeing. If it were easy everyone would do it. Just like anything practice makes perfect. Train hard boulder like mad. And keep trying to push that level. Eventually it will seem easier.
You are lucky to be climbing at that level so quickly. There are a lot of climbers that cant even dream of climbing that hard.
Good luck!
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jono13
Feb 19, 2002, 7:08 PM
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BAH! Ive been climbing for almost 2 years, and my max is an 11a! UR DOING FINE YA ASS!
jono
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jt512
Feb 19, 2002, 7:15 PM
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I was stuck at about the same point for a year. I could redpoint .11b's in about 2 tries, but .11c's were projects. I got through it by working routes in the .11c to .12a category for a few months. Currently, I'm stuck at .12a.
-Jay
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jonoj
Feb 20, 2002, 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement chaps!
I've been avoiding anything above 23 till now, but I think I'll take Pianomahnn's advice and try something harder. Time to work on that darn fear factor!!
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512
Feb 21, 2002, 1:23 AM
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Outside im only climbing in the top rope 11a-11c range and last Sunday I jusmped on a 13a just for the hell of it!
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kam_ill_eon
Feb 22, 2002, 6:04 AM
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That seems to be a crux for a lot of climbers however it is a mental thing. I was actually stuck there until I redpointed an 11d which changed my whole mind set. From then on I was able to climb 11d's. Try an easy 11d and see what happens.
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frankp
Feb 22, 2002, 3:32 PM
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Get this book called "Performance Rock Climbing"
It teaches you techniques about improving your skills thru srerious training.
You can find it at Amazon.com
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crux_clipper
Feb 24, 2002, 5:27 AM
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I'm stuck on 22. I can cruise most 20's, some 21's and few 22's. but i keep climbing them. I just jump on a 23 and get to the top, no matter how long it takes. Then keep trying it till i can get it clean. then move to the next one.
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