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gunked
Nov 11, 2003, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
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Howdy all,
I live within 20 minutes of the cliffs (West Trapps parking lot, Gunks) in Rosendale. The cold weather is startin' ta make ma blood boil. Want a partner dumb enough to join me in mixed climbing. Basically whatever we can find in the area. There are numerous short cliffs within ten minutes of my house that are in the woods and nobody climbs on. Let's share a rope and get dirty with some frozen choss, moss and anything that might ice up. I usually work on Fri, Sat & Sun. The other four days are flexible.
If interested in my experience, let me know. I'd also be interested in climbing some of the easy classics in frozen weather. Never really done that, although, interested in givin' it a go!
Thanx all. :wink:
Jason
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junnos
Nov 11, 2003, 11:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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Ya man. I'm in. My schedule sucks right now. I'm in the process of moving, so if I have a free day that fits your schedule, let's do it!
O ya, when I know, I'll shoot a PM to you.
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piton
Nov 12, 2003, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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Don't dry tool in the gunks. It's illegal! Plus i climb at those cliffs you speak of that are in the woods just no guide books thats why you see no one there. all those cliffs have classic lines. Jason & Jon you should know better!
go to the kitchen!
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gunked
Nov 13, 2003, 2:15 AM
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Junnos,
My email is jhur718@aol.com. Send me an email with ice climbing or dry-tooling in the subject line. Let's discuss possibilities.
Piton,
Relax dude. I would NEVER trash an existing line or any thing even borderline decent for climbing. I'm talkin about the myriad of 15 to 30 foot cliffs that are back in the woods that are covered with moss or ugly crap that's 10 miles north of the gunks in Rosendale. If you're thinking about keeping "free-climbing only" laws to the choss that I'm thinking about, I can probably guarantee that you're the only one.
The climbing that I was talking about in the gunks was nasty weather stuff, but I'd never take crampons or ice tools and scar up an established line with scratches or, worse, pry off holds or flakes.
Jason :D
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piton
Nov 13, 2003, 1:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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Jason you should just hit hells kitchen. there are plenty of well protected mixed lines with solid bolts. some ice should be in by now.
i know of a few people that climb in the woods, like the outback slabs etc... lines are often covered w/ lichen. it's rare you'll see me climbing in the trapps or the nears.
In reply to: The climbing that I was talking about in the gunks was nasty weather stuff, but I'd never take crampons or ice tools and scar up an established line with scratches or, worse, pry off holds or flakes.
that's what people thought about the bayards and scared up lines.
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gunked
Nov 14, 2003, 2:54 AM
Post #7 of 13
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Piton,
The key here is easily accessible, so I can go before or after work. The Hell's Kitchen that I know of is about an hour away near Hunter. I do appreciate the info though. I haven't been to the kitchen in about 7 years. I did my first ice lead there once upon a time.
The areas that I've been thinking about for dry-tooling is nowhere near as nice as Bayards. There's no sign of any of this crap having been climbed at all, ever. You're just going to have to trust me on this one. Not all rock that's taller than 20 feet is dedicated free-climbing only. The stuff I'm talkin' 'bout is defenitely open for use. And, It is NOT getting bolted. I'm talking leave no to little trace such as in trad climbing. Let us not forget that the Trapps were once full of lichen and trees on the cliffs and the cracks had no signs of nuts or cams. Everything humans touch leaves a little bit of a trace.
Enough of this, I don't want to get into a debate. You're concerned about me scarring up lines. Relax, it's not gonna happen. As far as my "winter climbing", re-read what I wrote. I was NOT using tools, just climbing during nasty weather. Probably gonna use heavy leather or plastic boots, just like one does in the bigger mountains.
I appreciate your helpful comment about hell's kitchen and your concern over style of use and it's possible negative effect on the environment, however, you do seem to want to be very "right" about something and in the process your bringing up an ethics debate. I posted this in the 'Partners' section of the forum for that's all I'm interested in with this post. If I was posting this in one of the 'upper' columns like 'trad climbing' or the like, then I'd be interested in what people feel about what I have to say.
I'm just looking for partners.
If you want to bring this topic up in a different category, then please do so. I, obviously, have quite a bit to say on the subject and might just join in on the discussion.
Thanx again for the Hell's Kitchen input, I didn't know about the bolts. I might check it out before the ice comes in full force.
Jason :lol:
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piton
Nov 14, 2003, 2:19 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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the bolts were put in the kitchen about 2 yrs ago when we had a mild ice winter. the bolts are solid i know the guy who put them. very nice mixed lines. if you need someone to show you around let me know.
cheers
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capn_morgan
Nov 14, 2003, 2:45 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
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Hey,
I wont have weekedays off till january, but if your still looking for someone to climb with I'd love too. And piton, those bolted mixed lines at the kitchen sound intriguing. Do you live near there?
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junnos
Nov 14, 2003, 2:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 217
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Yeah Piton,
Stop being such a hippie! :lol: :lol:
Were the hell have you been man?
Jon
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gunked
Nov 16, 2003, 3:02 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615
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Thanks Piton,
I'm very interested in hitting whatever the kitchen has to offer on my days off. Like I said, it's been a number of years since I was down that way. My days off are usually during the week (Mon-thurs), and are somewhat flexible. Anybody who's interested please email me at jhur718@aol.com . I'm set on the gear. I'm about an hour away from the kitchen.
I don't really remember what the rock was like as the thought had, at that point in my climbing, not even occured to me to climb anything but the ice. What's the rock like? Does it take any pro, cams, nuts, or iron (is this frowned upon in that area)? Is it even necessary or are the bolts creating a "safe" line? I just realized how wierd that last question was! :roll:
Anybody interested, please let me know, as I'm just "jones'n" fer a fix!?! :shock:
Thanx all,
Jason :D
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ginerbiner
Dec 2, 2003, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2003
Posts: 273
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email Steven @ SToth1@entergy.com He's a really really nice man, a high angle rescue guy, and loves to get out there on rock and ice w/ anyone who wants to go. He lives about 20 minutes from the Gunks too. Also, the guys at Rock & Snow, I believe, all do ice. Atleast I know that Jeremy does. Perhaps they can assist. Have fun!
peace and smiles, gina
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