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What do you look for in a indoor gym?
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ericontherocks


Jul 28, 2001, 9:18 AM
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What do you look for in a indoor gym?
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I have been in to a large number of climbing gyms i work at one in Vermont and traveled around being a coach for a JCCA team. There seems to me that there are alot of differences.
Some are tall, with straight up and down walls where others are very featured but shorter. some have smooth surface and other s have textured paint.
We are currently in the process of opening up a new gym so i thought i would ask what are things others look for in their climbing gym.


case22


Jul 28, 2001, 9:57 AM
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We built our own gym. It took about 9 months. We have walls that are slanted in, walls that go straight up, walls that have overhangs, we even have a couple of routes across the ceiling. Plus, one of our walls has a crank so the wall can be straight up or you can tilt it out so it's almost horizontal. It's a really good workout when it's tilted about halfway. It's killer on the arms. You also want to have a large variety of holds. There are some major crimps, bomber holds, and some regular holds. I'm not sure if I helped you any, but hopefully you some information!


Partner russman


Jul 28, 2001, 11:12 AM
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hey guys. I would agree that there are lots of different types. Personally for me,I still ahve not seen one that is goign to be "eye-catching" and climber friendly. Most gyms I have been in and seen are almost always dark adn gloomy. For some reason, everyone thinks that a climbing gym needs to be dark like a basement.

I want to start my own gym eventually, have plenty of designs already...(not givig any hints) but I plan to have lots of natural light and things that anyone-5.14 or a newbie who can barley walk up a hill will want to climb. The way I see it, think of something that would be cool...and then double or triple the size, and make it original.


wandt


Jul 29, 2001, 12:31 AM
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The colour yellow.
Cliffhanger Climbing gym, in Vancouver has tons of routes, really good climbers, and the routes get changed fairly regularly (but stay long enough that you can work on them for a long time). The paint is dark brown and I really don;t like going there.

The crag Climbing Centre in Prince George is small, short walls, has few routes, inconsitent grades, set by a bunch of 15 year olds. The paint is multicoloured, but with an emphasis on bright colours. Sometimes my partner and I would go there and I wouldn't even climb; we'd just sit around and socialize.

Make it an inviting place to be, and people will come.


Partner pianomahnn


Jul 29, 2001, 10:54 AM
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The gym I work at is, well, freaking huge. 18,000 sq.feet of climbing. It was built by NICROS, and has 4 different types of wall.

ART Wall-which is a VERY good rock substitute. All formations were molded from actual rocks, so it gives the best representation of being outside. The only downfall is that it gets greasy after a while. And hard to clean.

WestCoast Wall-just your normal plywood frame, with concrete on the outside, and textured paint. It kills the shoes though because the texture is so rough. But, it's nice because instead of having routes on the ArtWall, which allow for people to use "natural" holds along with the plastic, it forces people to do certain moves, etc etc.

The other two, uh, I can't recall their names. One is Hueco represenation, and the other is just a different natural rock looking, feeling, wall.

There are two sections. One that is 30 feet, and the other which is 42 feet. QuickDraws everywhere in the 42 foot section to allow for endless lead routes.

Also, they have what is called an AutoBelay. It's the mechanical equivalent of an human belayer. It's a hydrolic system behind the wall that allows for anyone to climb without a belayer. This is a wonderful thing for families, which is this gyms main consumer base. They clip in and up the wall they go. VERY safe system, as long as the people climbing them aren't morons.

Maybe I will take some pictures tonight when I'm setting routes...


fiend


Jul 29, 2001, 11:07 AM
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I look for varied terrain. Lots of bouldering at good angles: 15-30 overhanging. Good range of route grades.
The owner of my local gym is incapable setting anything higher than 5.12a. When I was climbing there I was sending them second try and couldn't be bothered to train harder because I would have nothing to do except endurance. I wonder if he's figured out why none of the people who climb higher than 5.12a come to his gym anymore?
Also the gym has to have a friendly atmossphere, couches, not too many posers. People who utilize and understand climbing ettiquette.


marcsv


Aug 3, 2001, 2:10 AM
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i try to look for gyms with good bouldering areas and or wicked overhangs


krillen


Aug 3, 2001, 8:13 AM
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heh, I guess I never noticed Fiend, mainly because as I was getting to the 12 level I screwed my shoulder, and had to level down. I can see your point though, maybe this winter I'll get back up there enough to see it?


tankshild


Aug 14, 2001, 3:30 PM
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hi all,

i like to have a verity of climbs lots of options so i can go all day and not get bord. i also like a nice clean bouldering area. and most importently is a drinking founten.


whateverjrs


Aug 22, 2001, 4:40 PM
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I think the walls should be tall with lots of overhangs. that way it is a real challange


climb512


Aug 22, 2001, 8:15 PM
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variety of route, hours they are open. do they ever wash the bithday party pizza grease from the holds. rock ventures here never does.


5.13leadsalot
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Sep 6, 2001, 8:43 PM
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I like tons of features so that it seemes more like the outdoors,I like lot's of steep overhangs so it's more challenging,finaly I love roofs cause it just feels awsome to be totally overhung!!!!!!!!!!!
-MIKE

[ This Message was edited by: 5.13leadsalot on 2001-09-06 20:44 ]


iclimb512s


Sep 26, 2001, 4:42 PM
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I like friendly staff, cool climbers and features(cracks chimneys arets) also, roofs are very impresive to the begginer and the experienced climber.


k2exp2010


Sep 28, 2001, 12:13 PM
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music! the one thing i haven't found yet is a gym with a sound-proof extra room where they blast music. i know some people want to be able to concentrate, but i do that best with something good coming out of speakers and a nice bass.


bart


Sep 28, 2001, 2:19 PM
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I would make a gym with something of everything (like this crag: http://www.belclimb.net/cragdetails.php?mode=r&open=liege&dp=pepinster&cr=carrierejaminon ). Enough light, but make sure you can look upwards without light in your eyes. You can increase the climbing area with a (climbable) pillar in the middle and some bows that go from the wall to the pillar. You should also hang cards for each route with: route setter, which rope, date of setting, name and grade. Hope I could help you.


metoliusmunchkin


Sep 28, 2001, 8:54 PM
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My standards for a gym are quite high, but I don't think that you need a bunch of routes to make a good rock gym. For me, as a climber, the most important thing for a gym, is that their routes range from different grades quite nicely. What I mean by this is that the routes will not all be 5.12's or all 5.5's and that they'll fluxuate (sp?) between the grades so Chris Sharma can have fun in it, and so can the average Joe Bloe.

And, probably most importantly, it has to have the nicest bouldering section of all!


Partner rrrADAM


Sep 28, 2001, 9:12 PM
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Good music, and a wall named Percie.

rrrADAM


climberchk


Sep 29, 2001, 6:07 PM
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Helpful employees, good routes, and also a wall/elephant named Percie!!!


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