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iamthewallress
Nov 20, 2003, 9:47 PM
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Is that you, Jay?
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jt512
Nov 20, 2003, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: Is that you, Jay?
Yup.
-Jay
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evan
Nov 21, 2003, 4:06 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
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Jay,
The photo is choice, and it looks like a quality route. Congrats on sticking that move; it looks proud. It reminds me a bit of the midsection crux of a climb I sent this Fall, although not nearly as dramatic.
I'm curious, how did you feel when you finally hit that jug? And was this before or after you read Arno's book?
For everyone else, what did you do this summer that required the same kind of "balls-out" type commitment captured in Jay's photo? Keep in mind that commitment arises from the decision to act, not necessarily a specific type of movement, so don't rule out scenario where you weren't cutting loose from launching dynos!
Thanks for sharing Jay.
- Evan
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jt512
Nov 22, 2003, 1:04 AM
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In reply to: I'm curious, how did you feel when you finally hit that jug?
The route is interesting. The camera was tilted in the photo. The route overhangs by about 15 degrees more than it appears. The route consists of only 12 moves, only a couple of which can be done truly static, and 3 of which are frank dynos. There are no rests until just before the pictured dyno, and that rest, a marginal knee bar, proves little respite. So, once you make the first move, you can't really stop until you clip the anchors.
The pictured dyno is not the crux. The physical crux is the first dyno, but the psychological crux is the second dyno: You make the first dyno, highstep with both feet, and then immediately execute the second dyno. The psychological challenge comes from the fact that after making the firt dyno you are staring eye-level at the next bolt, but the holds aren't good enough to clip it, so you have to make the second dyno, and then clip the bolt at your waist. If you miss the second dyno, the fall is safe, but you go a ways.
In reply to: And was this before or after you read Arno's book?
The picture was taken last week, but I had redpointed the route last spring, before having read the book, though I had a passing familiarity with the WW at that time. As for how I felt when I hit the jug, well on my redpoint, I felt pretty good! This was one of those routes that went from falling on every move to redpoint in a few weekends of effort. What is cool about this route is that it is so dynamic that you need to "commit" on just about every move. By "commit" I mean that you either make the move or you fall, and that is the case for just about every move on the route. On this route you have no choice but to dyno because the moves can't be done statically, but there are other routes where you do have a choice, and I feel that I often choose to do moves statically that would be more efficiently done dynamically. I want to be able to do that better, but it is really easy to wuss out and static a move rather than risk tossing for the hold, even when the fall would be safe. Any comments on that, anyone?
-Jay
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fracture
Jan 6, 2004, 12:16 AM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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In reply to: On this route you have no choice but to dyno because the moves can't be done statically, but there are other routes where you do have a choice, and I feel that I often choose to do moves statically that would be more efficiently done dynamically. I want to be able to do that better, but it is really easy to wuss out and static a move rather than risk tossing for the hold, even when the fall would be safe. Any comments on that, anyone?
I've recently noticed a similar area for improvement in my bag o' technical tricks. When deadpointing/dynoing, frequently, right before I make the throw, I'll say to myself something like "You're going to miss it". The result is predictable: even if I latch it, I let go... :)
Since this is a big area for improvement (the crux on a long-term project I've been working is dynamic, and I've only hit it twice), I've started focusing on it by spending time on boulder problems at Mckinney Falls (which are generally quite dynamic), here in Austin. Most of the time when I miss it, it can be related with negative self-talk immediately before the throw. I don't think I remember ever managing to land a throw when I was telling myself it wasn't going to work immediately beforehand.
Part of the choosing to do moves statically can be rationally the best choice: if you are trying to onsight a route, for example, chucking at a hold which you haven't felt yet may not be your best bet. Spending the extra energy to hit it more statically may be worth it. When projecting, though, the best bet is still probably the most efficient moves that you can do with resonable frequency of success. Which leads to the problem that if you are weak on dynos, the strenuous move with higher success-rate may let you send the route, however you didn't do anything to get better at dynos, limiting yourself in the long term....
Dunno.
-Jordan
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jt512
Jan 7, 2004, 4:58 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: On this route you have no choice but to dyno because the moves can't be done statically, but there are other routes where you do have a choice, and I feel that I often choose to do moves statically that would be more efficiently done dynamically. I want to be able to do that better, but it is really easy to wuss out and static a move rather than risk tossing for the hold, even when the fall would be safe. Any comments on that, anyone? Since this is a big area for improvement (the crux on a long-term project I've been working is dynamic, and I've only hit it twice), I've started focusing on it by spending time on boulder problems at Mckinney Falls (which are generally quite dynamic), here in Austin. Most of the time when I miss it, it can be related with negative self-talk immediately before the throw. I don't think I remember ever managing to land a throw when I was telling myself it wasn't going to work immediately beforehand.
I often find it helpful to visualize myself sticking the move just before I make the throw. It seems to improve both my accuracy and my commitment to the move.
In reply to: Part of the choosing to do moves statically can be rationally the best choice: if you are trying to onsight a route, for example, chucking at a hold which you haven't felt yet may not be your best bet. Spending the extra energy to hit it more statically may be worth it.
That sounds kinda theoretical to me. Isn't the following scenario more common: You're going for a hard onsight and getting pumped. If you're going to save the onsight it becomes increasingly important to climb efficiently, deadpointing rather than making moves statically.
-Jay
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