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tonithegreat
Nov 20, 2003, 7:13 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 51
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Two weeks ago I broke my left pinky toe rather nastily and now I'm getting the bad news from people that have suffered similar injuries that it is going to be a while before I can put my left rock shoe back on, and even longer before I'm jamming my left foot into cracks again.
Anyone have any advice for alternate training that I can do while the toe heals?
I can walk pretty normally in sandals or sneakers, and I should be able to run again in a week or two. In the mean time I've been gym climbing with only my right shoe on and avoiding using the injured foot.
Before I broke the toe I had just resolved to start running in the mornings on my off-climbing days, but now I can't run either. Any reccomendations for an alternate cardio workout that won't hurt the toe for the next couple of weeks? Unfortunately, I don't have access to a gym.
Toni
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gregtrammell
Nov 20, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 190
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A couple of things you may consider working on are upper body strength, and balance. Perfecting the balance issue can raise you a couple of grades (i.e. 5.9 to 5.10b or c) at least. More upper body strength can certainly help on overhangs.
As for the cardio, you said you could walk normal. Just try walking at a moderate speed, just walk a greater distance. Even walking helps to build the metabolism, and to keep weight down.
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cdobrans
Nov 20, 2003, 9:48 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Did you injury the foot on your dominate leg?
If so, this could be a good opportunity to strengthen your non-dominate leg [NDL]. Although simply emphasizing the NDL in daily movements will even out the balance temporarily, as you recovery the the other leg will regain its (genetic) dominance.
Practicing single-leg bodyweight squats, step-ups, single-leg box-jumps, etc. on the NDL will make it more likely that your legs will have equal strength when you recover.
As for a cardio workout, simply exercise without taking rest-breaks.
1. Climb up and down an easy rout (or use a tread-wall) for 20 minutes.
2. Do pull-ups, push-ups, "sit-ups", body-weight squats, wall-sits, dips/bench-dips/body-weight triceps extensions, arm-circles, shadow boxing, etc. in a circuit. Do as many circuits as you can in 20/30/40 minutes. Focus on slow (4-8 second) movements to get up the heart rate.
Here is a general idea:
1 Minute: Push-ups (no rest...)
1 Minute: Bicycle crunches
1 Minute: Pull-ups
1 Minute: Leg raises
1 Minute: Dips
1 Minute: Step-ups
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