Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
After the Injury
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apollodorus


Feb 28, 2002, 12:02 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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After the Injury
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He should be able to exercise everything but the ankle using weight machines and the like. For aerobic exercise, have the doc fit him with a fiberglass cast so he can go swimming.


vaness


Feb 28, 2002, 6:26 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2001
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i have an idea!
you should go to the gym or anywhere and find a really easy route with easy hand holds and climb it with only one foot! he can get techneque and not loose his strenth at the same time
or he could realy push himself and get on like a 5.11 and climb that with onlt one foot


dogen


Feb 28, 2002, 6:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2002
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i broke my ankle about a year ago, but i only had to take two months off. i did A LOT of hangboard training to stay strong. when i my ankle was healed i found that i hadn't lost any strength, maybe even gained a little, but my foot work was hooooorrrible.


jt512


Feb 28, 2002, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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He can work on upper body strength, and come off the injury a better climber than before.

When I broke my foot, I kept climbing in the gym with the cast, one-footed. I gained immense upper body strength during this time. When I got my cast off, I flashed a route outdoors with a bouldery start that I couldn't get off the ground on previously, and a month later, redpointed my first 5.11d, which was two letter grades harder than my previous best.

It did take a few months for me to get my foot strength and technique back, though.

I also got an A2 tendon pulley injury within a few months of getting my cast off. My tendon strength hadn't had time to catch up to my new upper body strength.

-Jay


graniteboy


Feb 28, 2002, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
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I broke my leg once while chasing behind a pretty girl on my tele skiis in the crud. She was NOT impressed. BUT: after a week or 2 in the cast, I carved the cast down so it would fit inside the outer shell of a Koflach double boot, stuck the cast in there, and went climbing in yosemite. It was sweet.
After he gets outta the cast, tell him to be sure to do lots of stretching of that ankle over a 6 month period.


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