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dboss420finger
Jan 23, 2003, 12:46 AM
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I am doing some research on the bouldering at Mcafee's knob. Has anyone climbed the problem on the far right side of the roadside boulder? It involves a huge crux dyno from crimps to a very shallow pocket. I have worked it for a few months periodically, and am close to sticking the dyno. I would not like to take credit for a first if it has been done already. Very hard somewhere around V10-11. planning on giving it a good day once it warms up some.
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eli_mann
Nov 17, 2003, 5:47 PM
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I don't know of anyone who has done it. Yup its hard. Also the hold has crumbled...
Who are you? If you are working this, we should climb together. I have lots of stuff to share...
Ed
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pisceian
Nov 17, 2003, 6:56 PM
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As far as I know it's never been done. But like eli I'd love to be there when you attempt a FA. How often do you head out there?
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eli_mann
Nov 17, 2003, 7:22 PM
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Though I have to add that V10-11 is probably a bit exaggerated...but I had better climb it before downgradeing it, I suppose.
Unless that problem pictured on the left side of Mickey Mouse is, as stated, V6....in which case I can add a couple V grades to all my problems. Oh well, let em call it what they want if it makes em happy.
E
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dboss420finger
Nov 23, 2003, 4:57 PM
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On my last real effort on the problem, before moving to Cali saw me stick the deadpoint only to have the hold dissolve in my hand. I believe that the deadpoint move itself was V10, and with most of the hold gone now it is most definitely V10+. I did not have a chance to return and finish it off before moving west, but next time I make it to Roanoke, I will send it, as I am feeling much stronger now.
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eli_mann
Nov 25, 2003, 11:17 PM
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I just tried it again a few days ago...real hard. No more poop-talking here.
Let me know if you want someone to boulder with when you are here next.
~E
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