Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


leapfrog


Nov 29, 2003, 9:57 PM
Post #1 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2003
Posts: 19

bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Texas rope trick only works when you are less than 1/3 rope length up the route. So what if you are higher up and want to bail without leaving gear? Well, I came up with this idea.
step one:
girthhitch a sling to the middle of the rope. Keep it loose so the rope can still slide inside the hitch. Also keep the sewn part (or knot) of the sling close to the girthhitch.
http://www.jianing.net/images/1.jpg
step two:
thread the other end of the sling through the bolt, then thread the rope through the other end of the sling. Make sure both ends of the rope touch ground and now you can rappel. Remember which end of the rope is girthhitched.
http://www.jianing.net/images/2.jpg
step three:
On the ground, pull the girthhitched end of the rope. If you pull the wrong end you won't retrieve the sling.
http://www.jianing.net/images/3.jpg
At the end of the pulling, after the end of the rope pulls out of the ungirthhitched end of the sling, the friction of the girthhitch will pull the sling out of the bolt.
http://www.jianing.net/images/4.jpg
Let me know if you think this will work. I only tried this on my home wall.


thinksinpictures


Nov 29, 2003, 10:07 PM
Post #2 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2003
Posts: 447

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Once you rap off of that, you're going to tighten the girth hitch. If the girth hitch is tightened, the rope isn't going to feed through and you're going to lose your whole rope. Suck it up, sacrifice some gear, and use a sling and rappell rings, or a locking biner.


nagatana


Nov 29, 2003, 10:12 PM
Post #3 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2003
Posts: 425

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I thought given enough force, bolt hangers could cut through rope, webbing, etc.


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 29, 2003, 10:15 PM
Post #4 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 2381

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Once you rap off of that, you're going to tighten the girth hitch. If the girth hitch is tightened, the rope isn't going to feed through and you're going to lose your whole rope. Suck it up, sacrifice some gear, and use a sling and rappell rings, or a locking biner.

this was my concern as well, with sling it may not tighten to that point, but if it does you're goign to feel like a douche bag for not just leaving a two dollar,12" sling up there... or a six dollar biner. i don't know why people trifle with leaving a sling anyway, just get the f off of that climb is my concern...


hawgdrver


Nov 29, 2003, 10:18 PM
Post #5 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


hawgdrver


Nov 29, 2003, 10:31 PM
Post #6 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


taraus_de_bull


Nov 29, 2003, 10:49 PM
Post #7 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

here's question, say your up and its take 2/3's of your rope to get down. why don't you use the texas rope trick to get 1/3, then clip a bolt, and set up the texas rope trick once again, why couldn't you just keep doing it until your down. i've never read what the texas rope trick actually is so i'm not sure its possible or not, but just a thought.


leapfrog


Nov 29, 2003, 11:02 PM
Post #8 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2003
Posts: 19

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
here's question, say your up and its take 2/3's of your rope to get down. why don't you use the texas rope trick to get 1/3, then clip a bolt, and set up the texas rope trick once again, why couldn't you just keep doing it until your down. i've never read what the texas rope trick actually is so i'm not sure its possible or not, but just a thought.

That's doable, I was just trying to find a way to do it in one shot.


Partner tim


Nov 29, 2003, 11:32 PM
Post #9 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Why not just take a couple maillons with you on hard routes?

Seems kind of Rube Goldberg to me.


studs


Nov 29, 2003, 11:34 PM
Post #10 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 103

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just rap off the hanger.Most modern hangers aren't going to do any more damage than a descending ring.Isee people doing worse things to their ropes every day.


taraus_de_bull


Nov 29, 2003, 11:39 PM
Post #11 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how about this, you fassion some pease of rubber say 6 inches long and that can be securec around the rope so after you put the rope through the hanger, you can snap or zipper the rubber around the rope and slide into into the hanger, thus making it safe to rap from hangers? think this could be a safe design? perhaps i'll try to make one and let you guys know.


hawgdrver


Nov 29, 2003, 11:42 PM
Post #12 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


neomagi


Nov 30, 2003, 12:19 AM
Post #13 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 202

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how many routes have any of you ever had to bail off of. serious question. i have left gear on 2 routes ever. point being, in those 2 instances, i just wanted to get off, or was so tired and frustrated that a 3 dollar bail biner was fine to leave. so what i lost $6, i knew i was getting down safely, and somebody else would get my 2 biners...

i guess it just comes down to, how much is safety worth? i would rather leave a biner than shred my rope and maybe fall...


socalclimber


Nov 30, 2003, 12:32 AM
Post #14 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sorry, but gumbies shouldn't start "inventing" things till they have some more experience. That system will not work, your rope will hang up and then your screwed unless you redo the route to retrieve it.

Here's some advice, can you spell DOWN CLIMB?

Robert


andypro


Nov 30, 2003, 1:58 AM
Post #15 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:

I've updated my profile.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


socalclimber


Nov 30, 2003, 2:34 AM
Post #16 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
this kind of tomfoolery is what happens when you start chasing numbers instead of just going out and having fun.

Correction. This kind of tomfoolery is what leads to accidents.


studs


Nov 30, 2003, 6:11 AM
Post #17 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 103

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
I just rap off the hanger.Most modern hangers aren't going to do any more damage than a descending ring.Isee people doing worse things to their ropes every day.

Do you really? And do you really think that? Yes, thousands of times.


hawgdrver


Nov 30, 2003, 6:28 AM
Post #18 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


studs


Nov 30, 2003, 6:50 AM
Post #19 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 103

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh ya.Many thousands of times,and I and all my buds are still here.Perfect safety record no deaths, accidents or rescues unlike many of my contemporaries.


telemarkist


Nov 30, 2003, 6:57 AM
Post #20 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 182

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

why don't you guys just lower off your draw and walk around and rap down and get it back? even on a multi-pitch you can most likely climb an easier route and do the same. why go to all this trouble of devising a way to rap off a single bolt? when I learned that was considered idiotic. but go right ahead.........natural selection :roll:


hawgdrver


Nov 30, 2003, 7:00 AM
Post #21 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


aussiedean


Nov 30, 2003, 7:09 AM
Post #22 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 12

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Intersting trick but you could just put the rope through the hanger, If you were worried about anything ripping use some spectra cord. Kevlar would have to be better than nylon. I going out tomorrow I will try it a see what happens.


bvb


Nov 30, 2003, 7:10 AM
Post #23 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Whatever. You haven't even put your shoes on thousands of times.

Rappel off hangers all you want. Don't advise others on how smart it is and expect to not get get s--- on, though.

hawgdrver, if you had any idea who "studs" is you'd feel like one of the dumbest mutherfukkers of all time....

"thousands" is probably and underestimate, try "tens of thousands".


hawgdrver


Nov 30, 2003, 7:16 AM
Post #24 of 47 (7107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Deleted


paulthenurse


Nov 30, 2003, 7:17 AM
Post #25 of 47 (6703 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221

Re: bailing off a route from more than 1/3 rope length up [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If Studly wants to run a rope thru a 0.5 mm wide piece of metal (The English language word for that is KNIFE!) that's his problem. Just don't let it become yours by climbing with him. When he plunges to his untimely demise, just hope that none of his goo splatters on your shoes.

Darwin is waiting for you Studly, go join him.
PTN

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook