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climbing ethics and access issues
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markhusbands


Dec 2, 2003, 9:55 PM
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climbing ethics and access issues
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:?: I’m interested in any comments members might have about the related issues of climbing ethics and access to climbing areas.
Some questions you may or may not consider:
· Is there an understood code of conduct (or should there be) at local climbing areas related to style of ascent, gear replacement, or treatment of the physical (climbing and non-climbing) environment? Or treatment of other climbers and non-climbing recreationists? Would you voluntarily give up certain climbs or activites to conform to local codes of conduct?
· Are you concerned about losing access to local climbing areas? Are you concerned about damage to local climbing areas (or the climbing experience) because of crowds or climbers who engage in inappropriate behavior? Should we be mainly concerned only about how our individual experiences are affected, or the experiences of all climbers?
· It used to seem that climbing areas in different regions had their own community of climbers who agreed on codes of conduct. Is this still true, or has the growth of the sport and an increase in travel by climbers made regional standards less important?
· What are your feelings about the way government agencies treat climbers as a recreation user group? Is it better for agencies to regulate climbers’ activities, or is it better for climbers to self-regulate (or is no regulation necessary at all)?
· Do forums like these have an important function in bringing climbers together around access issues or codes of conduct?
· If there is an accepted code of conduct at a climbing area, how can climbers “enforce’ that code on other climbers?
You get the idea. Any comments would be helpful. I’m a grad student (and climber), and I don’t work for a government agency (at this time). Your comments will not be publicly reproduced; I just want to use them (maybe) for a small project. The same message will be posted in a number of forums in North America. Thanks, M


Partner philbox
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Dec 2, 2003, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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Re: climbing ethics and access issues [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I’m interested in any comments members might have about the related issues of climbing ethics and access to climbing areas.
Some questions you may or may not consider:
In reply to:
· Is there an understood code of conduct (or should there be) at local climbing areas related to style of ascent, gear replacement, or treatment of the physical (climbing and non-climbing) environment? Or treatment of other climbers and non-climbing recreationists? Would you voluntarily give up certain climbs or activites to conform to local codes of conduct?

In my view this is certainly the case, however as time goes by change happens by tiny increments and the original ethic of a cliff can be altered.

In reply to:
· Are you concerned about losing access to local climbing areas?
Yes

In reply to:
Are you concerned about damage to local climbing areas (or the climbing experience) because of crowds or climbers who engage in inappropriate behavior?

Not so much concerned by climbers behaviour but more the behaviour of the casual visitor i/e tourist chucking rocks off a vantage point or hurling rubbish around.

In reply to:
Should we be mainly concerned only about how our individual experiences are affected, or the experiences of all climbers?

We should always be concerned about the greater good of the climbing community as a whole.

In reply to:
· It used to seem that climbing areas in different regions had their own community of climbers who agreed on codes of conduct. Is this still true, or has the growth of the sport and an increase in travel by climbers made regional standards less important?

I believe that there will always be that local climbing community. The progression of a climbers trade takes time and a lot of people tend to inhabit areas for long time, thus the knowledge of ethics for any one area is generally speaking passed on from climber to climber.


In reply to:
· What are your feelings about the way government agencies treat climbers as a recreation user group?

Governments tend to treat climbing as a lunatic fringe activity. They do not realise the significant economic benefit of climbers as travellers and purchasing consumers of high end goods. Climbing is an activity that is not limitted to any strata of society, a dirtbag poor climber can be seconding a professor of economics. A doctor can second a tradesman.


In reply to:
Is it better for agencies to regulate climbers’ activities, or is it better for climbers to self-regulate (or is no regulation necessary at all)?

There should be no regulation, however govt. agencies should engage in dialogue with climbers.


In reply to:
· Do forums like these have an important function in bringing climbers together around access issues or codes of conduct?

Most definitely. Because of the fragmented nature of the climbing community and its almost invisible underground mentality a forum such as this provides a means of communication between widely spaced and diverse people. As a matter of fact rc.com is currently in the throes of wrestling with access issues and the routes data base.


In reply to:
· If there is an accepted code of conduct at a climbing area, how can climbers “enforce’ that code on other climbers?

We have a saying around here, Mr. Rack-of-cams, need I say more. Seriously though if someone is seen to be doing the wrong thing then words are spoken and indeed peer pressure is brought to bear on that person to clean up their act.

In reply to:
You get the idea. Any comments would be helpful. I’m a grad student (and climber), and I don’t work for a government agency (at this time). Your comments will not be publicly reproduced; I just want to use them (maybe) for a small project. The same message will be posted in a number of forums in North America.


caughtinside


Dec 2, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Re: climbing ethics and access issues [In reply to]
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:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Wow. These issues you raise are not new ones and have been discussed many times. If you use the search feature on this site you are bound to find some threads which answer (or not!) your questions.


curt


Dec 2, 2003, 11:25 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Re: climbing ethics and access issues [In reply to]
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In reply to:
· What are your feelings about the way government agencies treat climbers as a recreation user group? Is it better for agencies to regulate climbers’ activities, or is it better for climbers to self-regulate (or is no regulation necessary at all)?
In general self-regulation on the part of climbers would always be best. Climbers understand climbing and all of the associated issues far better than any group of bureaucrats possibly can. When you see government agencies (or private land stewards, for that matter) start regulating climbing activities in their respective jurisdictions, it means that self-regulation has fallen short.

Curt


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