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strider
Dec 14, 2003, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
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Curious if anyone had names or grades for a few climbs in the Pat and Jack area in Yosemite Valley. When you arrive at Pat and Jack, you park at the parking lot, walk across the highway, hike up the rather poor trail (erosion control is an issue here, so staying on trail is a good idea), and arrive at the base of the rock. When you walk as far as you can to the right, along the base of the rock, you come to a cascading river.
Climb A - About 100' to the river. There are two routes, both dihedrals/open books, opposite each other. When two people climb at the same time on each route then about 40' up they can look at each other through a crack in the rock. The right hand climb has a tree about halfway up then goes to a 20 foot crack/lieback to a roof undercling/mantle (~5.8/5.9?) then goes on to the top, with a nice view of the lower valley.
Climb B - Probably 1/16 mile before the river. It is a slab sport route. The crux for me and my partners was getting the 3rd or 4th move. Just high enough that belay was useless. Then it's bolts and juggy traversing to the left and then straight up a bit to the anchors and chains. There were a couple of hard moves in the middle but the crux was the start.
I know the descriptions are vague, but I checked my guide books and couldn't find anything. Most of the guides don't show climbs so far to the right, close to the river. Anyway, thanks for your help.
-n
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kalcario
Dec 14, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Right of the Tube and left of a kinda blank corner with chopped bolts? Sounds like something me, Schultz and Middendorf did back in the day, 82 or so. Schultz rap bolted 1 bolt at least, this was before we had Johnny to tell us the difference between right and wrong, sorry don't recall name or grade, low 11 I think, did lots of obscure FA's with Schultz on this cliff, Jungle Gym across the river, Little Wing, the thing up the road between Mojo Tooth and Reeds...don't have the guidebook anymore...
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karlbaba
Dec 14, 2003, 3:43 PM
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The first one is probably Golden Needles
See info at
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yopagold
The second route details were too vague for me but if you look through the pat and jack climbs listed at
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html?s=formation&o=ASC#yofree
I'm sure you'll find it. Those routes are in Chris Mac's new printed Yosemite Guide
PEace
Karl
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strider
Dec 14, 2003, 5:01 PM
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Thanks guys, that sounds about right. Karl: are these climbs in the ST Free climbs book? I remember checking the book and not being able to find them, although maybe I was drunk or something... Thanks for the info
-n
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boltdude
Dec 14, 2003, 5:16 PM
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They're in the new printed Supertopo book, but not the first edition (very thin book, nothing printed on the red colored spine).
How many bolts/how tall was your climb #2? That would help ID it.
We didn't include everything in the area, but several of the ones we did include are relatively new McDevitts/Andersons routes ('99-'01), you were probably on one of those.
Greg Barnes
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