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danielb


Nov 25, 2003, 12:44 AM
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Climbing in & around LA
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What types of climbing is aviable in and around LA? Might be coming over from Scotland for a couple months for work reasons, but theres no way I'm missing out on sampling some American climbing! Just wondering really if its worth bring my trad (free climbing) rack or just my sports climbing gear!

Cheers,

DanielB


danielb


Nov 25, 2003, 1:04 AM
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Oh and are there any guidebooks or websites that cover that area that I could buy to get a feel for the area?

Cheers,

Daniel


jt512


Nov 25, 2003, 9:00 AM
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What types of climbing is aviable in and around LA? Might be coming over from Scotland for a couple months for work reasons, but theres no way I'm missing out on sampling some American climbing! Just wondering really if its worth bring my trad (free climbing) rack or just my sports climbing gear!

Cheers,

DanielB

There are a couple of minor trad areas, mainly of historical interest: Joshua Tree and Tahquitz/Suicide Rock. Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay


occlimbr


Nov 25, 2003, 9:31 AM
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle


cloudbreak


Nov 25, 2003, 9:36 AM
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Crazy isn't it? Can't believe more people haven't heard!!


mfgithen


Nov 25, 2003, 9:38 AM
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the LA area seems to boast more sport climbing than trad. if you are willing to drive three hours east to joshua tree (and deal with chilly days), then bring your rack. otherwise, its not worth it.


jt512


Nov 25, 2003, 10:14 AM
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle

There was a brief news artilcle on this. I'll see if I can dig it up and post it.

-Jay


collegekid


Nov 25, 2003, 10:38 AM
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go bouldering!!!! And there are MANY guidebooks for LA...go to a store such as Sport Chalet, REI, Adventure 16 and you can buy hundreds of dollars worth of books...i suggest REI though, because you could probably use the guidebooks while here and then return them before you leave.


jello


Nov 25, 2003, 10:44 AM
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle

There was a brief news artilcle on this. I'll see if I can dig it up and post it.

-Jay

I still can't believe it!!

We will be hosting a free concert in the humber park upper lot....
Thinking about calling it the 'Don't Kill Suicide" fundraising Tour.


tigerbythetail


Nov 25, 2003, 10:47 AM
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collegekid wrote

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go bouldering!!!! And there are MANY guidebooks for LA...go to a store such as Sport Chalet, REI, Adventure 16 and you can buy hundreds of dollars worth of books...i suggest REI though, because you could probably use the guidebooks while here and then return them before you leave.

Perhaps you should consider an ethics course while at college. Why do you feel justified in ripping off guidebook authors and taking advantage of REI's generous return policy? Actions like that ruin it it for the honest folks.


tigerbythetail


Nov 25, 2003, 10:57 AM
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jt512 wrote


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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

Another sad byproduct of our public lands getting privatized and sold out. The granite is of excellent quality and highly regarded for kitchen counter tops, coffee tables etc. and can be pre-ordered directly from the company involved in the operation. Having climbed there often in the past and knowing just how nice the rock is I decided to order a nice granite counter top instead of Corian.


moabbeth


Nov 28, 2003, 6:21 PM
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In reply to:
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle

WTF??? When did this happen??

Links for more info?


jt512


Nov 28, 2003, 7:03 PM
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle

WTF??? When did this happen??

Links for more info?

I'm still trying to find the original press release. I'll post it as soon as I find it.

-Jay


ambler


Nov 28, 2003, 7:54 PM
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jt512 wrote
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.
Another sad byproduct of our public lands getting privatized and sold out. The granite is of excellent quality and highly regarded for kitchen counter tops, coffee tables etc. and can be pre-ordered directly from the company involved in the operation. Having climbed there often in the past and knowing just how nice the rock is I decided to order a nice granite counter top instead of Corian.
Hey, I want one of those too. Is the shipping very expensive? Can you request a slab with some of that orange surface color from the South Face?


danielb


Dec 20, 2003, 7:44 AM
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I'm thinking about getting a single rope for sport climbing as my current single rope is only 30m long. Would I be better getting a 50m or 60m rope?

Cheers,

DanielB


thegreytradster


Dec 20, 2003, 10:26 AM
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Crazy isn't it? Can't believe more people haven't heard!!

That's because it is crazy! :roll:

I've got first dibs on the Butress of Cracks though :twisted:

Suicide is not only on Federal land, It's in a wilderness area, (as is Tahquitz). The sign in sheet at the bulletin board is your wilderness permit, (although most ignore this).

BTW 50m ropes are fine for all So Cal areas.


thegogirl


Dec 20, 2003, 11:31 AM
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Old climbing mag had an article on LA horse Flats-Urban cragging stuff for bouldering. may wish to lo0k-2000 or 2001 ish year. I'll look through my fire hazard at home and see if i've got it....


thegogirl


Dec 20, 2003, 11:40 AM
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try website for a mr. chris leger....he's into robotics and stuff. Got pictures of La Horse Flats ifyou are into bouldering some. Bishop is way north but JT is always a good trip.


bellatoris


Dec 20, 2003, 12:36 PM
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Crazy isn't it? Can't believe more people haven't heard!!

That's because it is crazy! :roll:

I've got first dibs on the Butress of Cracks though :twisted:

Suicide is not only on Federal land, It's in a wilderness area, (as is Tahquitz). The sign in sheet at the bulletin board is your wilderness permit, (although most ignore this).

BTW 50m ropes are fine for all So Cal areas.

Actually there are routes at Malibu, Echo and Williamson that require 60s. Caveat climber.....


jt512


Dec 23, 2003, 6:45 AM
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I finally found the article about the impending Suicide closure. Here it is in its entirety:

--begin quoted material--

IDYLLWILD, Ca. - A once-popular Southern California rock climbing destination has been earmarked for mining, with the stone climbers once scaled being blasted for use in building facades, headstones, and decorative garden flagstones.

Suicide Rock in Idyllwild, a granite monolith that often shares billing with its larger neighbor, Tahquitz Rock, was purchased by the Robbins Mining Company in early October as the summer climbing season drew to a close.

Although Suicide has enjoyed legendary status, visits to the park have been in decline for years, says a representative from the U.S. Forest Service.

"Suicide had a pretty big heyday, but it apparently hasn't been much of an attraction since the mid-80s," said Randy Miller, a public information officer for San Bernardino National Forest, where Suicide is located. "Climbers were telling us they preferred climbing on powerful, overhanging faces these days, not the old-fashioned, technical slabs Suicide offers."

"Furthermore," he added, "those climbers who were still coming through were usually neglecting to purchase an Adventure Pass, and that really hurt operations."

The National Forest Adventure Pass is a nominal purchase that allows citizens admission to recreation areas in Southern California's National Forest lands. Passes cost $5 per day, or $35 per year.

"Climbers in particular were really bad about buying the passes, and some even had a hostile attitude about it. They must feel entitled to free access to public lands," Miller said.

"But," he added, "we at the Forest Service don't hold a grudge with this user group. We're not trying to spite anybody. We just needed money, frankly."

And that's where Robbins Mining Company comes in.

"We were really drawn to the smooth, speckly granite of Suicide," said Fred Roberts, a manager for Robbins. "We coveted this rock, and when we contacted the Forest Service, we were surprised but delighted that they would be willing to sell."

"We are very excited about what we can do with all this beautiful stone."

Robbins purchased all of Suicide for an undisclosed sum. Blasting is set to begin in 2004.

Suicide Rock is not the only climbing area to lend its rock to quarrying. Little Cottonwood Canyon, a popular spot outside of Salt Lake City, has been tapped for years by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, which uses the local granite to decorate its churches.

But while Robbins and kitchen-counter manufacturers may be excited about Suicide's transformation from outdoor recreation to indoor decoration, many climbers are "incensed" about the sale.

"Suicide is a magical, historical place," said John Marshall, a climber from Santa Monica. "I am incensed, absolutely furious, that our government would sell this beautiful rock- for what? Counters? Tables?"

"Why not Formica?" added Marshall. "Something must be done about this."

Miller, though apologetic, is steadfast.

"It was with a heavy heart that we made this decision, but we honestly felt this is best for Suicide Rock."

Marshall, however, is every bit as steadfast.

"I'm getting as many local and international friends of Suicide together as I can to appeal this," he said. "We cannot afford to lose this gem- it would be murder. Homicide, if you will, of Suicide. And that just cannot, will not, happen."

--end quoted material--


miker


Dec 23, 2003, 9:27 AM
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danielb-
There is much to climb, trad and sport. Check some of the forums here on rc.com and you might even be able to hook up with someone with all the guides. 50m will work for most, but a 60m is nice to have.

miker

Suicide(t6+)


tripperjm


Dec 23, 2003, 10:26 AM
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Not sure if Suicide will still be open when you get here, as it has been sold to private interests to be mined for granite.

-Jay

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!! When did this happen, are there any websites where I can get some more info.

-Kyle

WTF??? When did this happen??

Links for more info?

HAHAHAHAHA!!!1

You know I discussed this very issue with fredbob (Randy Vogel) this past summer at Williamson and again in a post titled "Carpe Diem poll" and he didn't belive me, and now it's to late to do anything about it. Jay, I am glad you could find the original press release. Though I didn't see anything in it, with regard to thier (mining co) promise to move the Insomnia to the top of the Vampire and then some how tilt the big stone to create a real climbing area????

I'm still trying to find the original press release. I'll post it as soon as I find it.

-Jay


rokjunky


Dec 23, 2003, 10:54 AM
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look into the SOUTHERN SIERRA area. the NEEDLES and DOMELANDS. and, bring your rack.


thegreytradster


Dec 23, 2003, 1:17 PM
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I finally found the article about the impending Suicide closure. Here it is in its entirety:

--

Care to cite a Source?


jt512


Dec 23, 2003, 1:32 PM
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I finally found the article about the impending Suicide closure. Here it is in its entirety:

--

Care to cite a Source?

I had originally found it on one of the local newspaper's websites, but when I went to look for it again, I couldn't locate it. I had emailed the article to a freind, and fortunately she still had it and emailed it back to me.

-Jay

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