|
usmc_2tothetop
Dec 23, 2003, 7:36 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 661
|
Question I just got some new Dynamic rope and I was wonder how much ware and tare rapelling does to it. Or if it depends on the rapelling devise. Iam looking at buying a new rapelling devise and am open to any suggestions. I recently learned how to make a device using about 5 biners. I just tested it 35ft. out of a tree and it worked great. Although that was static sailing rope :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
jds100
Dec 23, 2003, 8:32 PM
Post #2 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
|
If this is a serious post, first of all it's "rappelling", not "repelling (and "wear and tear", not "ware and tare"). Any advice you get here absolutely needs to be supplemented with reading instructional books and definitely learning from an experienced climber first-hand. Rapping (rappelling) on a static line is different than on a dynamic climbing rope. The static line has a different feel than the dynamic climbing rope, and can have different response properties in different situations on rappel. By the way, you said In reply to: I just got some new Dynamic rope : does that mean you bought an actual climbing rope, or did you go to some surplus store and buy rope off a spool that may well have not been subject to the tests that climbing rope manufacturers put their ropes through? If you're using a rope of such dubious origin, then you're increasing your risk substantially and unnecessarily. The same goes for whatever static line you're using. There are quite a few different rap/belay devices, and an online Forum is not the best place to learn about 'em. Go to a library or bookstore and look for the "How to Rock Climb" series of books; and look for "Freedom of the Hills", too. They are good resources to begin with, and good reads. Read a bunch of books or chapters; you'll see that most people agree on most of the basics, including what rap/belay devices are relatively safe and reliable. Another thing you'll see is that rappelling is considered one of the most dangerous parts of climbing, since most accidents occur relating to rappelling or setting up a rappel. More than a concern about a rappel device, too, I'd rather you were asking about a belay device. Rappelling, as a "sport" or activity, is different than climbing. There are specialized rappel devices, that have nothing to do with belaying, and they're not really used in climbing, per se. They are used in caving and in rescue work, but are not usually part of a climber's arsenal.
|
|
|
|
|
jds100
Dec 23, 2003, 8:33 PM
Post #3 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
|
jds100 moved this thread from Gear Heads to Beginners.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 29, 2003, 7:12 PM
Post #4 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: jds100 moved this thread from Gear Heads to Beginners. Incisive act of moderation, or subtle flame? You be the judge. -Jay
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Dec 29, 2003, 8:14 PM
Post #5 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
Funny and subtle JT, nice backhand slap. JDS, I only take objection to your "and an online Forum is not the best place to learn about 'em. Go to a library or bookstore " I disagree, learning from an experienced climber is the best choice. An online forum would be next on the list and is still better than the library. A high percentage of accidents occur when you are just learning, and a good chunk of em on rappelling: so.....as JDS is saying to you: buyer beware, ESPECIALLY when just starting out. All of us have our stories. Regards; Bill
|
|
|
|
|
monkeyface1982
Jan 11, 2004, 7:14 AM
Post #6 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 34
|
from my guess all you want to know is different gear that you can rapel off and down the cliff face come on ppl lets keep it simple for the poor man, there are plenty of differnt things to use from the good old Fig 8, all the way up to the Petzl STOP and plenty inbetween. my suggestion is get a Fig 8, its the bisic of all devices, and as long as you know how to use it ,(like anything out there) can be 100% safe, personally, i use a Fig 8 for double line absails, and the Petzl Stop for long Single lines. as for Dynamic and Static lines. if your only using it every now and then to do a rappel then i cant see the harm, but if you like to absail alot and really enjoy it, then go get a static rope, personally i have 3 ropes, 2 dynamic-50 and 60mt, and a 50mt static, (which has plenty of ware and tare) so my advice is look at all the sites as you can about rapeling and see what every one else uses, and then have a look at what might suit you, good luck
|
|
|
|
|
scubasnyder
Jan 11, 2004, 7:18 AM
Post #7 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 1639
|
i jsut use my belay
|
|
|
|
|
crushingfinger
Jan 11, 2004, 8:19 AM
Post #8 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2003
Posts: 203
|
Figure eight its the best
|
|
|
|
|
skiclimb
Jan 11, 2004, 9:01 AM
Post #9 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
|
The two best belay devices are the Trango pyramid and the grigri... Wear and tear from repelling depend on speed and the device used...the figure 8 it one of the worst for both.
|
|
|
|
|
david.yount
Deleted
Jan 11, 2004, 11:21 AM
Post #10 of 10
(2620 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Rappelling is far far easier on your rope than lowering. If you do lots of top roping on less than vertical rock or the anchors are set back over any edge, no matter how oblique.... lowering each climber eats your line for sure. If each climber rappelled down, the sheath on your line will show very little wear. I'm not necessarily recommending asking all top ropers to rappel, just that rappelling is not usually a source of much sheath wear and tear compared to other aspects of rock climbing. Trango B-52 has a smooth feed and a very nice hand while rappelling. Currently on sale for $15 at http://www.snowleopard.biz --David.
|
|
|
|
|
|