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Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco
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mother_sheep


Dec 29, 2003, 10:52 AM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco  (North_America: United_States: Texas: West_Texas: Hueco_Tanks_State_Historic_Site)
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I'm heading out tomorrow for a road trip. The weather doesn't look so great in UT so my partner and I are thinking TX. We are primarily sport/trad climbers and will boulder too. Are there any descent trad/sport routes in the park? Also, are there any other areas near Hueco worth visiting? Thanks.


alpnclmbr1


Dec 29, 2003, 11:03 AM
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Re: Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco [In reply to]
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The main problem with hueco is going to be getting into the park. They do allow a limited number of climbers into the park in the morning on a first come first served basis, but the majority is reserved ahead of time.

Not to many trad routes, but the bolted routes are tradish enough for most people. ie full pitch 5.9 with three bolts.

Surrounding areas: Carlsbad Caverns, one of the coolest rest days possible.

For a sport climbing jewel check out Sitting Bull Falls, some of the nicest holds I have seen anywhere. It is a small area with sweet tens and up


crankenstein


Dec 29, 2003, 11:37 AM
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Re: Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco [In reply to]
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Haven't been there in about 7 years, but there is a lot of fun climbing on the front side. A lot of the climbs are bolted, but quite a few are mixed climbs requiring some gear and some bolts. I don't know much about access, but if you can get into the park don't miss Indecent Exposure, Sea of Holes, Head Fox, Window Pane, and many other quality climbs. If you go, be sure to write a trip report to let everyone know how it was!


climber_osu


Dec 29, 2003, 1:02 PM
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Re: Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco [In reply to]
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we were looking at going there but the park has been all booked up. The other choices in tx are e-rock, reimers, pecos river gorge. E-rock is closed from the 4th-9th and reimers is only open thurs-sun. We have decided to just stay here in Oklahoma and go to the wichitas. There is a life time of trad and a few sport routes.


madmax


Dec 29, 2003, 1:07 PM
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Re: Trad and Sport Routes in Hueco [In reply to]
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I've gone to Hueco many times when it was supposedly all booked up. If I were you and there aren't too many people in your party, I'd still go. Chances are very high people make reservations for more people then are actually gonna be there and plenty of people cancel or don't show up.

As far as roping up goes, certainly do Sea of Holes and Indecent Exposure. Sea of Holes only sports seven bolts in 200+ feet, but it's only 5.9+ and the bolts are right at the few hard spots. All the rest is basically V0 jug hauling. Indecent Exposure is a little more comitting and requires a little gear, but well worth the effort.


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